A Food Lover’s Paradise in the Atlantic Imagine an archipelago of sun-kissed islands surrounded by clear, warm waters teeming with marine life. A place where the climate is so mild and fertile that nearly anything can grow. This is the Isles of Scilly, a destination that’s not just a natural paradise but increasingly, a gourmet one. CHECK OUT ANOTHER ISLES OF SCILLY FOOD ARTICLE HERE For years, this potential wasn’t fully realised — but all that is changing. Food and drink on Scilly is undergoing a remarkable renaissance, placing these islands firmly on the map for culinary tourism in the UK. The Lost Lifestyle of the Farmer-Fisher In 2007, I spoke to a retired farmer-fisherman, Brian Jenkins of Bryher, who described a disappearing way of life: catching fish in summer, spreading storm-cast seaweed as winter fertiliser, and harvesting early spring vegetables thanks to the islands’ unique microclimate. “Narcissi were far more profitable than veg,” he told me, recalling how flower farming overtook food production. “I think you can call me the last of the West Country crofters.” Why Local Food Matters on Scilly Today, the tides have turned. Over 100,000 visitors come to the Isles of Scilly each year, and they can’t exactly pop to the mainland for a meal. This captive audience is hungry for something more — and that “something” is increasingly fresh, local food and drink made with love and heritage. As one islander put it: “Even self-catering visitors only have one small supermarket. So getting the local food offer right is vital — and that is happening now.” Island Fish of Bryher: A Seafood Success Story A shining example is Island Fish, founded by the Pender family on Bryher. What began in Amanda Pender’s kitchen porch has grown into a sleek, modern seafood shop and café, built with help from the Duchy of Cornwall. “We wanted something that wasn’t a smelly fish shop,” said Amanda. “Now people can come here and enjoy fresh lobster straight from our boats — sometimes within minutes of landing.” Island Fish supplies crab, lobster, wet fish and shellfish across the islands. They also offer readymade seafood takeaway meals, with options like half grilled lobster with wedges and slaw for just £17 — eaten al fresco in the café garden. Their efforts have earned them multiple awards, including the Great Cornish Food Award for “Fishing For The Future,” celebrating sustainable practices and community impact. How Local Food Supports Island Culture and Sustainability Amanda told me, “Visitors like that they’re supporting a local family, and the money goes back into the island. We’re helping preserve island culture — not just for our kids, but for the whole community.” Ruth Huxley from Cornwall Food & Drink agrees: “There’s an island mentality here. They know they have to collaborate and innovate. And they’re doing just that.” More Must-Try Scillonian Food and Drink Experiences 🥃 St Agnes Amaretto & Westward Farm Gin Grace and Aidan Windridge-Hicks of Westward Farm produce an extraordinary range of gins and a house-made amaretto — Grace’s favourite drink. Years of experimentation paid off with a rich, almondy liqueur worth seeking out. Visit: www.westwardfarm.co.uk 🍰 Tattie Cake from Zoe Dan’s Bake Box, Bryher This Scillonian heritage cake is a sweet, potato-based treat originally made for flower pickers in the fields. Grab a slice from Zoe’s honesty stall on Bryher for a taste of tradition. 🍬 Veronica Farm Fudge: Bryher’s Sweet Spot Former BBC producer Izzy Tibbs returned home to make delicious fudge on the family farm using only island ingredients — honey from Hillside Farm, milk from Troytown, sea salt, rum and gin from neighbouring islands. The result? Fudge that tastes unmistakably of Scilly. Other Notable Scilly Food Producers St Martin’s Vineyard – Local wines, ciders, and beer SC Dogs, St Martin’s – Sea salt, rum, and soon the UK’s first island single malt whisky Scilly Cider – Artisan cider makers from St Martin’s Troytown Farm, St Agnes – Iconic island ice cream and dairy Salakee Farm, St Mary’s – Pasture-raised beef, duck, and no-dig vegetables Scilly Spirit, St Mary’s – Award-winning gin The Island Bakery, St Martin’s – Local baked goods Travel Tips: Where to Stay and How to Get Around Martin stayed at the beautiful Star Castle Hotel on St Mary’s — the perfect base for exploring the islands in style. Ferry transfers between the islands were arranged by the brilliant team at Falcon Boating. Why Foodies Should Visit the Isles of Scilly Now The Isles of Scilly offer more than dramatic scenery and peaceful walks — they now offer a chance to taste the island life. Whether it’s a flaky tattie cake or a freshly landed lobster, Scilly’s unique food culture is coming into its own — and for adventurous eaters, there’s never been a better time to visit. FAQ Why is the Isles of Scilly becoming a food destination? The islands have developed a thriving food scene centred on fresh seafood, artisan drinks, local farms and small independent producers. Visitors can enjoy everything from beach picnics and vineyard tours to award-winning restaurants and honesty stalls selling homemade produce. What local food should I try in the Isles of Scilly? Don't miss freshly landed lobster, crab, scallops, island-made fudge, Troytown ice cream, locally distilled gin, Scilly cider, traditional tattie cake and produce grown in the islands' mild climate. Is there a food festival in the Isles of Scilly? Yes. The annual Taste of Scilly festival celebrates local food and drink with pop-up feasts, seafood events, producer visits, tastings and special dining experiences across the islands. Can you buy food directly from island producers? Yes. Many producers sell directly from farm shops, honesty boxes, fishing businesses and artisan workshops, giving visitors the chance to meet the people behind the food. Which island is best for food lovers? Every inhabited island offers something different. Bryher is famous for seafood and fudge, St Martin's for vineyards and bakeries, St Agnes for dairy produce and spirits, while St Mary's has the widest choice of restaurants and cafés.

They don't call them The Fortunate Isles for nothing - the Scillonian archipelago is as rich in natural food resources as any other single place in Northern Europe. Yet a dozen years ago you would have been hard pushed to find a first-class meal made from local ingredients. Editor’s note: This article was first written some years ago but has been updated with new photographs. Fishing Life in the Isles of Scilly I am glad to report that the Scillies has really upped its game on the food-front. And I mean upped its game to the extent that the archipelago can now be regarded as a top food-destination, as well as being somewhere that happens to be unbelievably scenic. On several occasions I’ve been to the Scillies to attend a truly unique foodie event. The ultra-low-tide "pop-up restaurant" staged on a sandbar between two islands, in a place where fishes swim for at least 20 hours most days, was one of the most extraordinary food happenings I have ever enjoyed... From the Atlantic to the Plate Crowds gather for the inter-island pop-up seafood picnic between Tresco and Bryher Up to 500 people will paddle and splash their way out onto the bright white sands between Tresco and Bryher to enjoy bowls of fresh cooked mussels, or scoff some of the many amazing fishy treats caught, made and sold by a local family. If you are enjoying this article check out - A Taste of the Isles of Scilly: Discovering Artisan Food and Drink And it was that family - the Penders - that I was lucky enough to spend the rest of that happy sunlit day with. I did so because they are at the cutting edge of the archipelago's foodie renaissance and I wanted to find out more about what they do, why they do it, and how their business Island Fish, is faring. It was Amanda Pender who'd invited me to the islands with the promise of the low-tide pop-up event and an afternoon's spratting. I realise that several hours of wading in chilly waters handling seaweed covered nets might not be everyone's cup-of-tea, but it's the sort of real and authentic foodie activity that pushes all my boat. Moreover, I'd heard for many years that the Scillonian folk of old used to enjoy - no, rely upon - this old fashioned form of fishing. Mark Pender of Island Fish, Bryher With Amanda's brother (fisherman Mark), her husband Andy and various other delightful family members we pulled and hauled and did, indeed, catch the little "alandines", which are the Scillonian sprats. In other words, they are not like our mainland sprats but, despite my best efforts in researching the name, I cannot find any explanation as to what they are. The Penders assure me they are not babies of some species, indeed they took great trouble to throw young mullet and so on back into the sea. The "alandines" - small fry caught between Tresco and Bryher Eating Seafood on the Scilly Islands What I do know is that the alandines are delicious, because the chef at Tresco's Flying Boat Club took half our haul and fed me some for lunch the next day . After our fishing adventure the Penders invited me across to their home on Bryher where, among other things for dinner, we consumed a huge dish of razor-clams which Mark and his two teenage children had caught during the low-tide event. The Pender family catching the little "alandines" in summer As we waited for the food, Amanda told me why she and the family had decided to set up their new business called Island Fish at the beginning of the year. "It's a long story - my family has been involved in fishing on Scilly for as long as anyone can chart. It's something I've always dipped in and out of - and the time came when my brother and I can said - we could do that, maybe we could even do it better... "My dad Mike hit 70 - he didn't want to retire but slow down a bit - and at the same time the market has increased hugely for local fish. So it seemed like the time had come. I had a good job at the Island Partnership and had made lots of really good contacts - so it really did seem now was the time to build on what our parents had built up. "The islands have had many excellent fishermen and still have, but most people tend to send their stuff to Newlyn or sell to the local restaurants and so on. Which we do. But I thought there was a market for the person who comes here on holiday and wants fresh fish. I wanted to keep it local, that could help keep our cost down - and I wanted to add value to to what we caught. The Penders netting for "alandines" "There's a time in your life... You have a dream, an idea, that you can do something - and you either seize that or reminisce about it all your life. So my brother and I - along with my parents and my husband - we all put money in and said, let's take a risk... "So we bought an additional boat for Mark - my father already has a boat which is a bit of an icon on Scilly. We made the front of my house into a retail area and invested in everything you need to package fish and sell the brand. Our brand is the family - it is centuries of tradition - fishermen who know and love the waters and care where the fish comes from. We want to pass all this on to the next generation. The low tide pop-up betwixt Tresco and Bryher Lobster, Crab and the Daily Catch "I gave up a well paid job in Scilly, which is rare. My brother did too because he was working offshore. So we have taken a risk. "Now we are selling crab meat - the plain, the white, the brown, we do potted crab with spices and butter and lemon - we do dressed crab and crab quiche. And it's all very new - I only gave up my job in April. So I want to use this winter to look at other things we can do. "We want to have less pots and nets to make the business more environmentally friendly - but it's about making more out of what we have got. We just need more time in the day because everything is done by hand. We will be looking for new lines - if anyone can write in to tell me what to do with crab - please do... "And it's not just about crab and lobster. We sell everything we catch so we have zero wastage. We do mullet, mackerel, pollack, sometimes ray. The demand is really high for wet fish. "Spratting is a thing islanders have always done," Amanda told me. "It's a bit of fun for the family. Even teenagers into their iPads love doing it. The Tresco Estate have been very good to us - they take our fish in all their restaurants including the Hell Bay Hotel and its new Crab Shack here on Bryher. "I know there are lots of challenges ahead - but it is really good when we all sit down as a family and thrash our ideas. The future is bright as long as you are prepared to work and work hard." And you get the feeling this Scillonian fishing family is no stranger to that. More power to their hard working elbows if it helps turn the archipelago into one of the premier food destinations in the UK. FAQ Where can you eat the freshest seafood in the Isles of Scilly? Many restaurants across the Isles of Scilly serve fish landed the same day by local fishermen. Visitors can also buy freshly caught lobster, crab, mussels and fish directly from local businesses such as Island Fish on Bryher. What seafood is the Isles of Scilly famous for? The islands are particularly well known for lobster, brown crab, spider crab, scallops, mussels, mackerel, pollack, mullet and locally caught shellfish. Seasonal catches vary throughout the year, making every visit slightly different. Can visitors buy fish directly from local fishermen? Yes. Several fishing families sell fresh seafood direct to visitors, allowing holidaymakers to enjoy fish and shellfish landed only hours earlier. Is seafood sustainably caught in the Isles of Scilly? Many Scillonian fishing businesses use traditional small-scale methods and aim to minimise waste by making full use of their catch. Local fisheries are also managed under conservation rules designed to protect stocks for the future. When is the best time to enjoy seafood in the Isles of Scilly? Spring through early autumn offers the widest choice of fresh seafood, although different fish and shellfish are available throughout the year depending on weather and fishing conditions.

There are place names in the great European atlas that are enough to make the discerning traveller scuttle in the opposite direction – for example, having travelled to almost every corner of the EU in 40 years of writing travel articles, I’ve always managed to avoid the Algarve thinking it to be overcrowded and over-exploited. But one generalises at one’s peril. I am sure there are parts of Portugal’s southern coastline which are overbearing in certain seasons, but the south west corner is less developed than the rest, much of it is beautiful, and outside high summer the place is an absolute joy. I was recently sunbathing on a vast and picturesque beach down near Sagres – which is Portugal’s version of Land’s End – on a day when my Exmoor home was quivering under three inches of snow. Apart from my wife and me, the warm sandy beach was completely and utterly empty – not a soul came near the place in the two hours we were there. I needed the afternoon sunny snooze because we’d just partaken of a huge and wonderful seafood lunch in a restaurant which contained half a dozen local folk and not a single tourist. And here’s the real joy: this warm and lovely escape-chute from freezing Britain is less than a two hour flight from Bristol. I take back all I’d ever imagined about the Algarve – but would not have been in the position to if it hadn’t been for a friend who is one of the doyens of the British travel trade. This particular chap is a connoisseur of small boutique hotels – the kind where they pamper you in lovely settings without having the annoying hordes come knocking at the door. “You must go to Quinta Bonita, near Lagos, in the South West Algarve” he told me. “It is beautiful – there are only eight suites located in an old family house set in enchanting gardens – and the young British couple who own and run the place are absolutely charming.” He was correct in every detail. Quinta Bonita wins my own personal award for Secret Find of the Year. And I’d be happy to keep it that way, but as Chantelle and Fraser really are charming, and this is a brand new venture into which they’ve poured all their savings, I am only too happy to share the secret with readers. Exploring Historic Lagos & The Coast There are daily flights from Bristol to Faro and from there it’s an easy hour long blast along the main Algarve motorway to Lagos, which is the last town before you get to Portugal’s abrupt, wild and rocky south west corner. Lagos came to prominence during the 15th century when the Portuguese were the planet’s greatest explorers – it’s said locally that the port was as important during the Age of Discovery as Cape Canaveral was during the early years of space exploration. It’s a fascinating place – but more about it later because we must just check-in at Quinta Bonita, which located five minutes west of town near the coastal village of Luz. Set back on a hillside about a mile from the sea, the spacious property was designed and built by a successful Yorkshire businessman who obviously fancied creating for himself a kind of sunlit gentleman’s estate. Later it was sold to Chantelle’s family who’ve been giving it a great deal of tender loving care ever since. Chantelle and husband Fraser made the big decision to turn the place into a small boutique hotel: “We wanted to maintain the laid back and friendly atmosphere so that people instantly feel at home and leave refreshed and revitalised,” the couple told me. It was a real hands-on affair with members of the extended family lending a hand during the year long conversion. Quinta Bonita And it’s all very tastefully done indeed – our suite boasted a huge double bed (all beds have Egyptian linen), flat screen TV, two balconies and a vast bathroom complete with a bubbling hot tub style bath. We looked out over the hotel’s heated pool to the exquisite gardens in which rare birds like hoopoes cavorted in the sunshine. At the moment Quinta Bonita is run as a smart retreat and accommodation establishment, though I spent some time trying to persuade Fraser to start doing evening meals as he is an accomplished cook. He will prepare lunch by special request and his breakfasts are superb. Dining Out: Seafood Feasts in the Algarve Anyway, the Algarve is extremely rich in restaurants – and one of the delights of visiting this coast is to go out and eat. Lagos alone has countless eateries and you can be fed in any manner you please – from basic cafes where local fishermen refuel to high-end joints that know how to charge. We went to a couple of thoroughly charming local restaurants during our short break - Restaurante do Camilo is perched above a fantastic beach just outside Lagos and specialises in local fish dishes. It’s most famous for its amazing views looking east back along the Algarve, but it was pitch black the winter’s night we were there so we concentrated on the food, which is good, generous, simple fare. On another evening we went into the heart of town where the incredibly busy Adega Típica A Forja was bursting with neon light and local folk enjoying yet more seafood. Again, best go hungry – my dish of tiny local clams would have fed an entire family. The bill for four of us – including wine and other drinks – came to under £80. I liked Lagos a lot. Two main cobbled shopping streets run parallel to the estuary on the banks of which the town is built and there are numerous sites of historical interest that will keep you absorbed for a day. I would definitely recommend a visit to the large riverside market where they sell fresh fish – but then I tend to recommend local markets in every travel article I write. The name Lagos is Celtic in origin but was first colonised by the Carthaginians, who recruited Celtic tribesmen in their war against the Romans. Later it became colonised by the armies from Italy becoming part of the Roman province Lusitania – there are still plenty of remains from that period to be seen to this day. Central Lagos fairly empty in winter Coastal Gems & Unspoilt Surfing Beaches Delightful though the town is, I’d say it’s the far south west corner that really earns all this region’s brownie points. From Lagos west the sandy, cliff-bordered coast is punctuated by a handful of sleepy fishing villages which I reckon are the real charm of the area. Places like Burgau, Salema, Figueira and Zavial beckon few visitors, yet are the jewels in the Algarve’s crown. We took to calling into such places for a quiet drink at the end of the afternoon and watching the fishermen come in from the sea. These are all cove fishermen who must haul their boats up the beach, but at Sagres things get altogether more serious. The deep water port here is home to dozens of sizeable trawlers and a large fish-market – and it really is the Portuguese version of Newlyn, tucked safely away from the protection of the nation’s Land’s End. FIND. ORE PLACES TO STAY IN AND AROUND LAGOS SOUTHERN PORTUGAL The lonely rocky spur is known as Cabo de São Vicente and it is capped by a giant lighthouse. In true Land’s End style it rained heavily when we went out there for some sightseeing, so we beat a hasty retreat to Sagres where Chantelle had recommended we lunch at the locally famous A Tasca restaurant. As this place is just a flying fish’s jump from the harbour it’s not surprising that it specialises in seafood. And what truly fabulous seafood it is. Don’t expect to leave for a couple of hours – and don’t expect to have room for a smidgen of food for days after your visit. I had a kind of prawn risotto that was the most filling thing I’ve eaten in years. I am leaving the best until last. All this coast a few miles west of Lagos is a national park, but it’s where it rounds the corner and begins its journey north that the littoral becomes breathtakingly empty and beautiful. Past the little agricultural town of Vila do Bispo the landscape gets wilder and more scenic – and the thing to watch out for are the occasional tiny side roads that disappear through the woods and hills to your left. These, inevitably, lead down to vast and stupendously wonderful surfing beaches that would make the average Cornish wave-rider turn green with envy. This must be one of the least spoilt coasts in all of Europe – no wonder I’m swallowing all I ever thought about the Algarve. We drove home via an inland route past occasional villages through low wooded mountains wondering why we’d never heard of any of this magical land before. Quinta Bonita is the ideal base from which to explore the area and having taken three decades of travel writing to discover it I’ll be making amends by going again. Fact Box: Plan Your Southwest Algarve Trip Getting There: Fly directly from UK airports (including Bristol) into Faro Airport (FAO). Renting a car at Faro is highly recommended; the straightforward drive along the A22 motorway to Lagos takes under an hour. Where to Stay: Quinta Bonita Country House & Gardens, Matos Morenos, Quatro Estradas, 8600-115 Lagos, Portugal. An 8-suite luxury estate featuring 10,000 m² of botanical gardens, outdoor heated pool, and organic breakfasts. Book Your Stay: Look up rates and check live availability via the Stay22 Algarve Accommodations Portal (your Stay22 script will automatically convert and track this link!). When to Go: Spring (March–May) and Autumn/Winter (October–February) offer brilliant warm sunshine, uncrowded beaches, and pleasant driving conditions away from summer heat. Top Things to Do Nearby Explore the Lagos Fish Market: Head down to the riverside municipal market in the morning to see the local catch before wandering the paved historic streets of the old town. Walk the Luz to Burgau Cliff Path: Take a coastal trail along the Atlantic cliffs connecting the small white-washed fishing hamlets west of Lagos. Visit Cabo de São Vicente: Standing on Europe's southwesternmost tip, these 75-metre-high ocean cliffs and lighthouse offer dramatic views. Surf the Costa Vicentina Beaches: Turn off the main road north of Vila do Bispo to find vast Atlantic surf beaches like Praia do Amado and Praia de Cordoama. Frequently Asked Questions Is Quinta Bonita still open and operating? Yes! Quinta Bonita remains under the hands of Chantelle and Fraser. It operates both as an exclusive luxury boutique estate and a retreat venue near Lagos and Praia da Luz. Is it easy to explore the Southwest Algarve without a car? While public transport connects Faro to Lagos, renting a car is strongly recommended so you can easily reach the coastal fishing villages, remote surf beaches, and country estate locations like Quinta Bonita. What is the dining situation at Quinta Bonita? Quinta Bonita serves breakfasts featuring fresh local ingredients. Special lunches can be prepared on request, and the surrounding towns of Lagos, Luz, and Sagres feature dozens of seafood restaurants.

Introduction Discover the beauty of South Devon on the Bigbury-Ringmore circular walk, featuring stunning Ayrmer Cove. Experience breathtaking landscapes and charming villages while uncovering a rich history of smuggling and seafaring. Escape the Crowds: Bigbury-on-Sea Venture to the picturesque Bigbury-on-Sea, a popular summer destination that still offers tranquility during the colder months. Explore the area's natural beauty and enjoy a respite from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Bigbury-on-Sea: https://www.visitsouthdevon.co.uk/places/bigbury-on-sea Looking for somewhere to stay near Bigbury-on-Sea? Browse hotels, B&Bs, cottages and holiday apartments below. Burgh Island: A Magical Getaway No trip to Bigbury would be complete without visiting Burgh Island, a mere 270 yards off the South Hams coast. Accessible by foot or the unique sea-tractor, Burgh Island boasts a fascinating history and enchanting atmosphere. Burgh Island Hotel & The Pilchard Inn: https://www.burghisland.com/ SEE OUR DEVON WALKS PAGE HERE The roof of Burgh Island Hotel looking across towards Bantham A Peek into Bigbury's Past Explore the eastern side of Burgh Island, home to the ancient Pilchard Inn and remnants of a monastery. Learn about the island's rich history, from its days as a pilchard fishing hub to its associations with smugglers and wreckers. Coastal Adventures: South West Coast Path Embark on an exciting walk along the South West Coast Path, taking you from Warren Point to Challaborough Bay. Uncover the intriguing tales of smuggling and seafaring that permeate the coastal villages. South West Coast Path: https://www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk/ The Smugglers' Trail: Ringmore Village Visit the quaint village of Ringmore, where you’ll find the historic Journey's End pub. Delve into the local legends of smuggling and hidden treasures while enjoying a delicious lunch at this old inn. Journey's End Inn, Ringmore: http://www.thejourneysendinn.co.uk/ Ayrmer Cove: A Coastal Jewel Discover the captivating beauty of Ayrmer Cove, a secluded haven with a dramatic history. Explore the picturesque landscape and marvel at the magnificent views from Toby's Point. National Trust - Ayrmer Cove: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/features/ayrmer-cove SEE OUR SPECIAL SOUTH WEST COAST PATH PAGE HERE Return to Bigbury: Coastal Path & Wildflowers Complete your walk by returning to Bigbury via the coast path, taking in the splendid display of wildflowers and panoramic views of Bigbury Bay. The strange shiny cliffs at Ayrmer Cove If you're looking for one of the most memorable places to visit in South Devon, Bigbury-on-Sea should be high on your list. Famous for its sweeping sandy beach, the iconic Burgh Island, and the world's only sea tractor, this beautiful stretch of the South Hams coast has been delighting visitors for generations. Whether you're planning a coastal walk, a family day out, or simply want to discover one of Devon's most distinctive landmarks, Bigbury combines breathtaking scenery with fascinating history and timeless seaside charm. Bigbury Bay and Burgh Island: One of South Devon's Greatest Coastal Icons View of Bigbury Bay and Burgh Island from Soiuth West Coast Path Bigbury is the sort of place where Rupert Bear and his cheerful chums would go on holiday. It would be the perfect setting for an Enid Blyton Famous Five adventure. Even detective Hercule Poirot – not normally a lover of the seaside – came to Bigbury, or rather Burgh Island, to wet his toes. Everyone knows about Bigbury Bay, Burgh Island and the remarkable sea tractor. Together they form one of the true icons of the West Country. During the research for a newspaper and television series of that name, I had the rare opportunity not only to travel on the famous sea tractor but actually to drive it. It is a unique vehicle in every sense of the word because there is nothing else quite like it anywhere in the world. Driving the Famous Burgh Island Sea Tractor The sea tractor is powered by an engine, originally taken from a combine harvester, which sits high and dry on a platform around ten feet above the waves. That engine powers a hydraulic system which drives the enormous wheels far below the water. "The machine itself is simple to drive – it only has forward and reverse and no brakes," explained the man who gave me a brief lesson. "But learning about the tides, the shifting sands and the winds is the hardest part." Burgh Island, Bigbury-on-Sea How the Sea Tractor Crosses the Tidal Causeway He was referring to the tidal bar that separates Burgh Island from Bigbury and the South Devon mainland. "The sand moves all the time and you watch the tide as it's coming in and going out to understand what's happening. Children don't build sandcastles as much these days – they dig holes – and the sea tractor could capsize if one wasn't spotted. So, just before the tide comes in, we drive across and fill the holes in. "But that's only the start of the job. We check the oil pressure, the wheel nuts, hydraulic pipes, every joint is inspected and greased. Safety is everything. We carry radios so we can contact the hotel reception or the coastguard, and we even have proper nautical lights." A Remarkable Vehicle Unlike Any Other "It is classified as a maritime vehicle rather than a road vehicle," he continued. "It can carry up to 35 passengers, although at night that's reduced to 20. On busy days we're almost constantly crossing." The present sea tractor was built in 1969. "This is actually the third sea tractor. As far as anyone knows, it's the only vehicle of its kind anywhere in the world. It was designed by Mr Jackson, who I was lucky enough to meet, and built at Newton Abbot. It weighs 17½ tons and is entirely hydraulic, with its own motors driving the front wheels." Visiting Burgh Island from Bigbury-on-Sea Burgh Island is the unmistakable landmark of Bigbury Bay. It lies only around 270 yards from the beach at high tide and, for much of the day, can be reached on foot across the tidal sands. Yet despite its closeness to the mainland, it retains the magical sense of mystery shared by so many islands. Whether separated from the shore by a few hundred yards or hundreds of miles of open sea, islands possess an irresistible romance—and Burgh Island has it in abundance. Surfers in Bigbury Bay, Conclusion The Bigbury-Ringmore circular walk and Ayrmer Cove adventure offer a delightful escape into the enchanting world of South Devon. Experience the region's unique history, breathtaking landscapes, and charming villages on this unforgettable journey. Quick Facts Basic walk: Bigbury seafront to Challaborough, Ringmore, Ayrmer Cove, and back via the coast path. Distance and difficulty: 3.4 miles, with some climbs and descents. Martin's Musts See the sea by sea-tractor: Experience the one-of-a-kind sea-tractor ride to Burgh Island. Pints not pilchards at the Pilchard: Enjoy a refreshing drink at the historic Pilchard Inn on Burgh Island. Journey's End mid-walk: Stop for a delightful meal at the Journey's End inn in Ringmore. South Hams District: https://www.southhams.gov.uk/ Ordnance Survey Maps: https://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/ FAQ How long is the Bigbury and Ringmore circular walk? The full circular walk is around 3½ miles (5.5 km) and takes approximately 2 hours, depending on stops and the tide. Is Ayrmer Cove worth visiting? Yes. Ayrmer Cove is one of South Devon's hidden gems, with an unspoilt beach, dramatic cliffs and wonderful views across to Burgh Island. Is the walk suitable for children? Yes, although there are several steep climbs and uneven sections on the coast path, so sturdy footwear is recommended. Can dogs go on this walk? Yes. Dogs are welcome, but should be kept under control around livestock and near cliff edges. Where do you park? Most walkers use the large public car park at Bigbury-on-Sea, although there is also parking near Ringmore. Can you visit Burgh Island? Yes. Burgh Island can be reached on foot at low tide or by the famous sea tractor when the tide is in. Turn this walk into a relaxing coastal break by staying in Bigbury-on-Sea, Ringmore or nearby Kingsbridge. Compare hotels, holiday cottages and apartments below.

Hope Cove in Devon's South Hams, perfect location for coastal walkers I’ve gone headland happy, peninsula potty, cape crazy. I’ve become a foreland fanatic. These south-pointing headlands of South Devon are the finest jewels in our coastal crown. Stretching out into a cauldron of intense, bouncing sea-light, they stretch into the channel and make for the finest walking territory in the West Country—provided you have a decent head for heights. Whether you are looking for wild ocean ramparts, secret smuggling coves, or serene river banks, here is a curated guide to six of the very best walks in South Devon, complete with my favourite open-for-business local pubs to reward your efforts. 💡 Planning a South Devon Walking Break? These 6 hikes are best explored from basecamps in Salcombe, Dartmouth, or Bigbury-on-Sea. 👉 Search South Devon Coastal Cottages & Walker Inns Here 1. Hallsands to Start Point Distance: 4 miles | Going: Easy to moderate (dramatic cliff drops) Oddly enough, given all the joy and light of South Devon’s coast, our first route begins at a place that is both melancholic and forlorn. The lost village of Hallsands is probably one of the West Country's saddest sights. It was doomed by the actions of man—a gigantic dredging operation to supply gravel for Devonport Naval Dockyard caused 37 houses to slip into the sea when the beach level dropped four meters. The final catastrophe came in January 1917, when a fierce storm destroyed the remaining community. One little-known tale from Hallsands is that locals kept trained Newfoundland dogs, who would swim out beyond the crashing breakers to fetch boat ropes in their teeth. From the viewing platform overlooking the ruined cottages, the South West Coast Path begins a gentle ascent along bracken-covered hillsides toward Start Point. Whichever way you turn, the vistas are stunning. Looking back, Devon’s coast marches north past Beesands and the great blonde thread of Slapton Sands toward Dartmouth. To the south, Start Point stabs the Channel like a serrated dagger. IF YOU'RE ENJOYING THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR DEVON WALKS PAGE HERE The beach at Lannacombe, Following the Trinity House lane past vertiginous slopes, you reach the dramatic 1836 lighthouse. This point has historically been a killing ground for shipping—in March 1891 alone, six vessels came to grief here in just 30 days due to the lethal tide-race. Returning via the aerial path above The Warren and Great Mattiscombe Sand, this lasso-shaped hike delivers an unbeatable dose of winter-curing coastal light. 🍻 Nearby Open Pubs The Cricket Inn (Beesands) – Situated right on the sea wall, famous for locally caught seafood and fine ales. The Tradesman’s Arms (Stokenham) – A classic 14th-century thatched pub just inland, serving superb traditional pub food. Tempura fish at The Cricket Inn, Beesands 2. Thurlestone to Hope Cove Distance: 4 to 5 miles | Going: Easy to moderate South Devon’s coast is great for facing south, but hardly any of it faces west. There are times of a late afternoon when I fancy a bit of westerly walking—you get to watch the sun go down over the sea and get drowned in the very last ounce of light available in these isles. Which is why I removed myself to Thurlestone. Hope Cove, South Devon Central Thurlestone is old and grand, dominated by a handsome church whose ancient annals record that in 1328 the Bishop of Exeter threatened to excommunicate the parish because locals refused to pay the Abbot of Buckfast's fees to cleanse the building after blood was spilled inside. Heading south down past the golf course, you join the South West Coast Path. It’s an odd bit of littoral—a little bit of Wiltshire-by-Sea with scruffy beaches and stunted cliffs. Yet, it holds a wonderful eerie quality. Off the strand sits the famous Thurlestone Rock, pierced by a giant hole through its middle that moans like crying Sirens when the wind blasts through. Local legend speaks of a passenger named Ms. Burke who survived a 1772 shipwreck here laden with jewels, only to be murdered on the sand by three local wreckers—all of whom later met untimely, cursed ends. The coast at Thurlestone Hitchcockian darkness defied, the trail climbs wide downs echoing with skylarks before descending into the sunlit resort of Hope Cove. It is a glorious stretch that lets you witness the sun dipping out over Bigbury Bay before returning via inland paths past South Huish. 🍻 Nearby Open Pubs The Hope & Anchor (Hope Cove) – A welcoming coastal pub nestled right by the harbor slipway. The Cottage Hotel Bar & Terrace (Hope Cove) – Offers elevated, sweeping views across the bay for a evening drink. CHECK OUT OUR SPEICAL SOUTH WEST COAST PATH PAGE HERE 3. East Prawle to Gammon Head Distance: 3.5 miles | Going: Easy going "From Start to the entrance of Salcombe harbour the coast is of such a wild beauty that all who persist in talking about the gentle charms of South Devon should be marooned there for a week in winter." So wrote author S.H. Burton half a century ago, and not an inch of this craggy chunk of coast has changed since. It is Devon’s best-kept secret—rugged, ocean-ravaged ramparts more reminiscent of far-flung Cornwall. Travel writer Martin Hesp with Gammon Head in the background No one goes to East Prawle, Devon’s most southerly village, unless they want to. Setting out from the green, narrow lanes purple with violets head south toward Pig’s Nose, Ham Stone, and Gammon Head. Smugglers of yore stomped up and down these ancient tracks laden with contraband, especially near Black Cove where two Spanish galleons once smashed onto the rocks (doubloons have been found on the beaches in recent times). Gammon Head, a highlight of the South Hams The ancient track gives way to steep fields that drop down to the rugged shoreline. Joining the coast path near Elender Cove, you climb back up toward Sharpers Head, where the village lights twinkle invitingly on the ridge above. It proves that a long journey down narrow lanes is a small price to pay for such an unblemished scenic treat. 🍻 Nearby Open Pubs The Pig’s Nose Inn (East Prawle) – olne of my favourite pubs in the world! Devon’s most wonderfully eccentric, historic village pub, packed with character, memorabilia, and great local beers. The Pig's Nose at East Prawle, 🗺️ Open Interactive South Devon Stay Map 4. Greenway to Kingswear (The River Dart Trail) Distance: 5 miles | Going: Moderate (can be muddy in places) This isn't so much a walk, more a grand day out along four or five of the most scenic riverside miles in the West Country. The National Trust is conscious of traffic in the narrow lanes around Greenway - Agatha Christie’s old home on the River Dart - making the journey there half the fun via steam train and ferry. Kingswear Castle The walk follows a prime section of the 16-mile Dart Valley Trail. Leaving Greenway, the lane climbs toward Maypool before heading up a track over Oakham Hill. At the crest, you are treated to fantastic panoramas over the great bend in the river north of Dittisham, stretching all the way past Bow Creek to the outskirts of Totnes. The River Dart near Greenway Crossing the ridge, the main body of the Dart opens up below as it heads toward the sea. The path enters Long Wood—a 100-acre semi-natural ancient oak canopy owned by the National Trust. Don't be shocked if you suddenly hear a steam whistle echoing through the trees; the trail weaves close to the Greenway railway tunnel, and the sudden emergence of a massive steam locomotive is a frightening and wonderful thing to behold. Following the path through the woods above bustling marinas, you descend into Kingswear, finishing opposite Dartmouth’s historic waterfront. 🍻 Nearby Open Pubs The Ship Inn (Kingswear) – Positioned right on the river foreshore with exceptional views across to Dartmouth. The Steam Packet Inn (Kingswear) – Famous for fresh food and local ciders, located just yards from the steam railway terminus. The river Dart looking down towards Kingswear 5. East Portlemouth & Gara Rock Circular Distance: 4 miles | Going: Easy going Even on the darkest winter days, a small open ferry plies back and forth across Salcombe Harbour, depositing walkers in the parish of East Portlemouth. Leaving the town quay behind, you step off into a coastal sanctuary that feels miles away from high-street bustle. A small lane weaves above the shoreline past Mill Bay—one of the most pleasant sandy coves within a few hundred yards of any town—before leading through woods around Biddlehead Point to Sunny Cove. Here, the coast path stretches out over Rickham Common toward Limebury Point, where trawlers line up to cross the treacherous Salcombe Bar under the massive cliffs of Bolt Head. East Portlemouth During WWII, Bolt Head hosted a cliff-edge aerodrome. Local history recalls Lancaster bombers barely clearing the drop with engines screaming as they fought for height over the waves, and lost pilots searching the fog for the legendary "hole in the sky" above Salcombe. The trail climbs up and down along Portlemouth Down in true Coast Path tradition, leading to the thatched lookout tower at Gara Rock. After taking in the wide open sea views, the route turns inland, descending through pretty woodland shaded by strangely shaped ancient lime trees back to the ferry slipway. One of the sandy beaches at East Portlemouth 🍻 Nearby Open Pubs Gara Rock Kitchen & Bar (Gara Rock) – Perched high on the cliff-tops, offering incredible ocean dining and mid-walk refreshments. The Millbrook Inn (South Pool) – Located a short drive up the creek, world-renowned for its organic local food and village pub charm. 6. Bigbury & Ringmore via Ayrmer Cove Distance: 4 miles | Going: Moderate (one steep climb) Here is a South Devon walk that takes you far from the madding bucket-and-spade crowds. But first, no visit to Bigbury would be complete without a quick hop across the causeway to Burgh Island. Reachable on foot at low tide or via the famous sea-tractor, this magical isle is home to the ancient Pilchard Inn, where 18th-century wreckers and smugglers like Tom Crocker once operated (his ghost is still said to haunt the doorway). The Sea Tractor at Bigbury, South Hams Back on the mainland, pass around Warren Point into Challaborough Bay before tackling the steep flanks of Toby’s Point. Here, an inland path leads to the quiet village of Ringmore. It's a stretch of track where sun-basking lizards and adders lounger along the old stone walls. In Ringmore, the 13th-century Journey’s End pub hides secret rooms once used to store contraband. From the village, you can descend the enigmatic, leafy Smuggler's Path down to the secluded sands of Ayrmer Cove. National Trust Rangers at Ayrmer Cove, South Hams The return leg requires a steep climb back over the headland, where wild flowers carpet the slopes and panoramic views of the whole of Bigbury Bay stretch out before you, guiding you safely back to Bigbury-on-Sea. 🍻 Nearby Open Pubs The Journey’s End Inn (Ringmore) – A historic 13th-century thatched pub hidden in a quiet valley, serving outstanding food. The Pilchard Inn (Burgh Island) – A 700-year-old hideaway right on the water's edge, welcoming mariners and walkers since 1336. 💡 Planning a South Devon Walking Break? We’ve set up a custom map showing live availability for coastal cottages, pubs, and B&Bs across the South Hams: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) What is the best time of year to walk the South Devon Coast Path? While summer offers long days and warm sea breezes, autumn and bright winter days are arguably the best times for coastal headlands like Start Point and Prawle Point. The low sun creates an extraordinary, intense light bouncing off the water from three sides, and the trails and pubs are far quieter than during peak summer months. Are these South Devon walks suitable for beginners or children? Most of the hikes featured—such as Thurlestone to Hope Cove or the Greenway river trail—are moderate and easy going underfoot. However, certain coastal headland sections, particularly around Start Point and Gammon Head, feature narrow paths along vertiginous slopes with sheer cliff drops where extra caution and a good head for heights are required. Can I reach these walks using public transport? Some routes offer fantastic public transport links—most notably the Greenway to Kingswear walk, which can be combined with the Dartmouth passenger ferry and the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway. Other headland routes, like East Prawle, are located down remote country lanes where driving or local taxis are the most practical options. Are dog-friendly pubs available along these walking routes? Yes, South Devon is exceptionally welcoming to walkers with dogs. Most traditional inns along these routes—including The Pig’s Nose Inn at East Prawle, The Cricket Inn at Beesands, and The Journey’s End Inn at Ringmore—happily welcome dogs in their bar areas and gardens. Where is the best basecamp to stay for a South Devon walking weekend? Salcombe, Hope Cove, and Kingswear/Dartmouth make the three best basecamps. Salcombe and Hope Cove provide quick access to the southerly coastal headlands, while Dartmouth offers easy access to the River Dart estuary trails and steam railway connections.

Discovering the Magic of Boutique Travel Experiences Purveyors of magic. That is how you could describe some of the companies or agencies which make their money by selling you experiences away from home. The holiday industry can be hit-and-miss, but book with the right people and there can be golden moments when you are able to sit back and appreciate that your chosen purveyors of magic are, indeed, waving their wand. Cruising the Sicilian Coast Aboard a Luxury Sailing Ship Which is the best way I can describe what’s happening as I write these words. The experience of a lifetime is, indeed, underway as I sit aboard a sailing ship watching the mountainous Sicilian coast pass gently by in hot July sunshine. The coast of northern Sicily as seen from Sea Cloud Spirit We’re passing between Sicily and the Aeolian Isles with a following wind so we’re under full sail, which means all I can hear is the sound of the blue waves slapping against the hull. Some members of the crew are clambering high in the rigging and they’ve invited us to climb up to the crow’s nest, but I’ve got words to write and, to be honest, I’m too scared. Those yardarms are a long way up. Quick Highlights: Sea Cloud Spirit Vessel Type: A modern three-masted full-rigged sailing ship combining traditional seamanship with luxury cruising. Atmosphere: Boutique, yacht-like experience with under 150 passengers and a high staff-to-guest ratio. Onboard Dining: Fine dining featuring regional cuisine, fresh local seafood, and open-seating meals. Top Tip: Head to the Lido Deck during sail-set to watch the crew manually hoist the sails. Explore Croatia with Elegance Cruises For a similar sense of adventure in the Mediterranean, cruising the Croatian coastline offers a wealth of opportunities. You can explore Croatia with Elegance Cruises, where you’ll experience the perfect blend of luxury, comfort, and the thrill of sailing. Whether you're on a one-day or seven-day voyage, the journey through Croatia’s stunning islands and coastlines promises unforgettable memories and exceptional service.Alternatively, why not venture through Greece’s idyllic islands or Turkey’s rich cultural coastlines? Each of these regions offers unique experiences, blending rich history, crystal-clear waters, and exceptional luxury cruises. Life on Board the Sea Cloud Spirit: Where Luxury Meets Heritage Not that my failure to climb the rigging, or anything else come to that, matters - the customer is absolute king aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit. You do what you like, and to help you do that there are outstandingly friendly and attentive teams of waiters, bar-staff, pursers and goodness knows who else. Iconic Mediterranean Views from Deck The views are stupendous enough as I tap on my keyboard - I don’t need to go to the crow’s nest to see distant Mount Etna rising into the clouds - and I’m also aware that we’ll be dropping anchor much closer to the volcano that so recently blew its top, once we’ve turned down into the Straits of Messina. Fine Dining Under Sail: A Taste of Decadence But if the maritime scene is magnificent, so too are the savoury aromas wafting my way from the open-air lido deck where they’ll be serving lunch under the cool shade of a giant awning. We’ll be along there soon, trying to decide between the lobster and the steak. Maybe we’ll surf-and-turf it and have both. And the lunch will be wonderful because all the meals aboard this vessel are first-class. So too will the selection of house wines. Yesterday there was a classy Chablis, which went superbly with some sushi from a giant fresh (and sustainably) caught yellow fin tuna. Later, dinner in the air-conditioned restaurant will be a slightly more formal and, perhaps, an even more delicious affair. A four course meal delivered by teams of the most attentive waiters you’ll find anywhere. Men and woman who remember your names from day one, along with all your little idiosyncratic tastes and preferences. Step Back in Time on Deck Life aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit is all so decadent and luxurious. The mahogany decks, the brass fittings, the varnished wooden bulkheads, and a thousand other things combine to give you the impression that you have jumped into a time capsule and are, perhaps, sailing along with the likes of Hercule Poirot in some Agatha Christie period piece. Not Death on the Nile as much as Sumptuous Around Sicily. Culture at Sea: Concerts, Lectures and Grand Pianos Yesterday evening, when we were tied alongside in the port of Palermo, four world-class musicians from the ensemble Recondite Armonia (named after the famous aria) came aboard to give us a concert in the ship’s large air-conditioned lounge. It was breathtaking. I had thought they’d be just four jobbing professionals who “do” the cruise ships, but the soprano, baritone, violinist and pianist stunned the small audience of some 60 passengers with their virtuoso performance. On another evening two of the passengers put on a concert playing four-handed classical pieces on the luxury yacht’s grand piano. They too were faultless, playing to a professional standard despite the fact that they claimed to be amateurs. In the same lounge, with its leather armchairs and mahogany walls, we were also treated to a series of lectures by the well-known biographer, Flora Fraser, who told us about Admiral Nelson’s flight from Naples with Emma Hamilton and her husband, Sir William Hamilton. Their hurried voyage, in the company of the Neapolitan royal family, followed a similar course to our cruise last week - namely a route past the Isle of Capri, south to Sicily - and the love affair between the admiral and the woman has a legendary status in British history. Flora’s excellent talks helped to give our cruise an altogether more romantic and more exciting narrative. Palermo Market We were aboard the same sort of boat if you count the fact that we too had masts and sails, but our vessel was very different in just about every other respect to HMS Vanguard which took the lovers across the Tyrrhenian Sea. They would have been astonished by the beautifully-equipped Sea Cloud Spirit’s layers of modern-day luxury - especially the air-conditioning, which can be important in the Mediterranean’s summer heat. Why Small Ship Cruises Are the Way Forward Say the word “cruise” and in me you will find someone walking the other way. Those giant cruise ships which loom over just about any port with sufficient water don’t do it for me. The destinations instantly become overcrowded the moment they arrive and who wants to see the world from a floating city? The three ships operated by Sea Cloud Cruises are a very different kettle of fish. Last week we were aboard the largest, the Sea Cloud Spirit, a luxurious, three-masted, full-rigged sailing ship launched in 2021. It is the newest and largest of the Sea Cloud fleet, combining traditional windjammer design with modern amenities. It carries a maximum of just 136 passengers and offers a unique sailing experience with spacious decks, a wellness and spa area, and a fitness room with sea views. The Itinerary: Naples to Valletta by Sail We joined the ship in Naples and the cruise took us out across the bay so we could stop at Capri, after which we spent 36 hours sailing down to Trapani in north-west Sicily. And I really do mean sailing. The Sea Cloud ships don’t have masts and sails just for the look of things - they really do get the canvas up and sail these vessels. Which has the happy effect of making them far more steady in any kind of choppy seas. The vast acreage of sail seems to “nail” the ship to the sea and not a single seasickness pill did I take during our eight-day voyage. Which was basically a clockwise journey around three-quarters of Sicily taking us from Trapani to the island capital of Palermo. From there we traversed the length of the north coast to pass down through the Messina Straits to Giardini Naxos, which is the port for the famously picturesque town of Taormina. After that we sailed south again to lovely old Syracuse, the highly fortified historic port on Sicily’s south east coast. Lastly there was an overnight sail down to Malta where we were to disembark at Valletta. Aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit: Elegant Comfort and Excitement at Sea The journey down from Naples included two entire days at sea, plus of course visits to the towns and cities mentioned above. Did I get bored during the long days at sea on a smallish cruise ship with hardly any of the glitzy amenities you find aboard their giant cousins? Absolutely not. I wallowed in the luxury of it all, watching the crew high above in the rigging, talking to the captain on the bridge (which is open to passengers most of the time), enjoying superb lengthy meals and also getting away to the privacy of our spacious cabin’s own small private deck. Sea Swimming, Zodiacs, and Unique Photo Ops The crew also ensure there’s plenty to do, not only with the lectures and talks but also by hoving-to and opening the James Bond-ish swimming platform. Diving into deep deep sea in the middle of nowhere is a very special thing to do. It could be scary but aboard this ship every - absolutely everything - is carried out with well-rehearsed precision. There were safety ropes and floats and half dozen crew acting as life-guards when we enjoyed our out-at-sea swimming experiences. On another occasion we were offered the chance to go on a “sea safari” which basically meant climbing down into one of the zippy Zodiacs to belt around the ship as she careered along under full sail. The ride was bumpy and exhilarating, but those of us with cameras were able to snap the very best shots of a three-masted windjammer doing what she does best - roaring down the waves thanks to a strong following wind. A Cruise to Remember All very exciting. Time for a little lie down on the luxury bed between the best quality sheets imaginable. Followed perhaps by a calming cocktail up on the Lido Deck and we watched the odd puff of smoke emerge from the top of Stromboli’s volcano… All this might sound a little expensive? Well, yes, it is. But you get what you pay for in this life. Purveyors of real magic don’t come cheap - and by ‘magic’ I mean moments that you will remember forever. The first of these happened to me last week as we slipped away from the port in central Naples with a glass of champagne in my hand. The sheer elegance of it all - the fact that I’ve spent a long lifetime occasionally looking with envy at luxury yachts and thinking: “Who can be aboard such a wonderful thing?” And suddenly it was me. Fact File: Sea Cloud Spirit Cruise Details Cruise Operator: Sea Cloud CruisesContact: info@seacloud.com | +49 (0)40-30 95 92-50 Cruise Consultant: cruise-consultant@seacloud.com YouTube Channel: Sea Cloud Cruises GmbH Fact File: Travel Extras Airport Parking Provider: HolidayExtras.comService: Maple Parking Business Meet & Greet, Heathrow Terminal 5 Sample Cost (9 Days): £203.99 (arrival 05/08/2025) Booking Contact: 0800 316 5678 Frequently Asked Questions About the Sea Cloud Spirit What is the Sea Cloud Spirit? The Sea Cloud Spirit is a luxury three-masted sailing ship carrying a maximum of 136 passengers. Launched in 2021, she combines the romance of a traditional windjammer with modern luxury, including spacious cabins, fine dining and a spa. Where does the Sea Cloud Spirit sail? The ship operates voyages throughout the Mediterranean, the Caribbean and Northern Europe, visiting smaller ports that are inaccessible to most large cruise ships. Is the Sea Cloud Spirit worth the money? If you value elegant surroundings, exceptional food, attentive service and genuine sailing rather than big-ship entertainment, the Sea Cloud Spirit offers a memorable luxury experience. How many passengers does the Sea Cloud Spirit carry? Unlike giant cruise liners carrying several thousand passengers, the Sea Cloud Spirit accommodates just 136 guests, giving it an intimate and relaxed atmosphere. Does the Sea Cloud Spirit actually sail under canvas? Yes. Unlike many modern cruise ships with decorative sails, the Sea Cloud Spirit genuinely raises her sails whenever conditions allow, with crew climbing the rigging by hand. What was your favourite part of the cruise? For me, it was the silence. Once the sails were drawing properly there was little to hear except the sea itself, making the journey feel far removed from the bustle of modern cruising.

Teign Gorge from Castle Drogo First thing every morning for weeks we’ve opened our east-facing front door and walked out into an early morning wall of heat. Shouldn’t complain. We all can remember too many summers in recent decades when it did nothing but rain. But a wall of heat first thing in the morning, every day for weeks? You can find yourself wishing for a break in the weather. And that’s just me as a semi-retired journalist. Goodness knows what you think when you’re a farmer looking out at a parched and unproductive landscape. Unlike a lot of people, I have an instant remedy. Between the cottage and the lane, a path descends past a copse where there is a footbridge across a stream—and there, in that dark damp place, we find the cool. Leaning over the wooden rail watching the resident trout who lives in the slow-moving water under the bridge, there’s a degree of coolness even on the hottest days. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST TAKE A LOOK AT OUR EXMOOR PAGE I say “a degree of coolness” because, just up the lane, there’s an old railway cutting which, for some reason I can never understand, almost always verges on being cold. Even in the fiercest heatwave you can walk through the deep little canyon and wish you’d worn your fleece. I don’t know what causes that dip in temperature because, in really hot weather, all the other shady places in the valley can become stuffy and warm by midday. But not in the cutting. It’s as if the place has its own natural refrigeration system. On a winter’s day, it’s like walking through a deep freeze. So there are places in the landscape which can offer some cooling relief as the heatwaves continue. Indeed, here in the Westcountry we do have a secret weapon to help us—the myriad, deep, sunken lanes that wend and weave their way from one end of the region to the other. It was already hot on my dog-walk this morning at 9:30, but the ancient sunken lane which crosses the old West Somerset Mineral Line remained damp and cool despite the heat. Other regions have narrow country roads, but nowhere else can boast quite such deep, hollowed-out, ancient byways that are one of the features of our peninsula. The hedges lining them are the English equivalent to the tropical rainforests. They teem with life. More than 600 plant species, 1,500 types of insects, 65 birds, and 20 different mammals have been recorded living or feeding in the region’s magnificent hedgerows, which are the main feature of the sunken lanes. Devon alone has an astounding 33,000 miles of hedgerow. Our “hollow lanes” (as some people call them), full of life and coolness, are a feature of a good many parts of the South West peninsula—mainly in places where the underlying rock is soft enough to have been easily eroded by a thousand years of hooves, wheels, and rain. The lanes don’t get too deep in hard granite areas, but if you visit the red sandstone zones of Dorset, East Devon, the South Hams, or Exmoor and West Somerset, you can easily find yourself in a semi-subterranean world tinged with green. As for the hedges, a countryside officer for the North Devon Coast and Countryside Service once told me: "Devon is the only county that has a type of hedgerow named after it. The Devon hedge is unique, it is basically an earth bank that may be faced with stone or turf with a line of shrubs on top—elsewhere most areas don't start with a turf bank but at ground level." "There are a lot of theories, but no one knows exactly why our ancestors put structures in with a combination of wildlife and shrubs on top, as well as flowers, but it does make them very special. Many are very old," he added. "A quarter are more than 800 years old—and you could compare them to a parish church in historical importance." He regretted that sorry time when farmers were encouraged to grub them out. Records in the 1950s show that Devon alone had a staggering 45,000 miles of hedges compared to the 33,000 still left today. "Some have gone and what we’ve got left we must look after," said the countryside officer. And I bet there are a lot of people (and creatures) who’d wholeheartedly agree this summer as they hunt for some shade in the heat. If you went out and about this week you’ll have seen landscapes which are almost entirely yellow and parched—but you will also have seen streaks or smudges of healthy-looking green—and they’ll have been provided by the hedges and woodlands. Here are four other types of landscape that can offer a degree of cool in a heatwave… SEE MORE COOLING WALKS ON OUR DARTMOOR PAGES 1. Airy Ridges All uplands tend to be cooler than lowlands, but in a heatwave the centre of a large plateau like Dartmoor, or Salisbury Plain where I was last week, can be just as stifling as a West Country vale. Ridges, however, attract breezes from all angles and so offer a pleasant respite—and one with views… Perhaps the best of them all for a breezy stroll with views is the Quantock Hills—which rises between Taunton and Bridgwater in the south, and marches north to the Bristol Channel. The northern end offers a good airy entry point to the ridge. Turn right off the main Minehead to Bridgwater road, ascend past the villas of St Audries, and go straight up the steep lane that will take you to the northern tip of the Quantocks. Pass the forest and take the track up to Beacon Hill, and you enter an altogether cooler upland world—or, as Coleridge put it, perhaps inspired by this very spot: "Sea and hill and wood, with all the numberless goings on of life, inaudible as dreams…" Beacon Hill plays host to a track called the Great Road, which eventually joins the main ridge path going south past Bicknoller Post to Thorncombe Barrow. You can stroll along it recalling Coleridge’s cooling words... "On seaward Quantock's heathy hills, / Where quiet sounds from hidden rills / Float here and there, like things astray, / And high o'erhead the sky-lark shrills." The area between Combe Martin and Ilfracombe offers both shade and interest. 2. Coastal Areas With Potential for Shade There’s often a breeze at the coast and as I write these words in a heatwave, a cooling sea-breeze seems just about the most wonderful thing imaginable. The trouble with coasts, though, is that they tend to be fairly treeless places devoid of shade. Salt-laden winds and plants don’t always mix, but you need some shade in a heatwave even if you have a breeze. The area between Combe Martin and Ilfracombe offers both shade and interest. If you climb west out of the former and follow the Coast Path, you’ll find it eventually descends through a cool and elegant tunnel of beeches where you can catch glimpses of the National Trust-owned Golden Cove far below. The wonderful little beaches are north-facing and so get quite a bit of shade. You could take a detour to enjoy this strand, or continue past Egg Rock and Turk’s Cave before sweeping down over the meadows to Watermouth where you could walk out along the picturesque Warren, the west-pointing headland that turns this breezy inlet into a kind of fjord. One of the hidden shady coves between Combe Martin and Ilfracombe 3. Foray in a Deep Cool Forest The shady forests and cooling waters of the Tamar can offer some respite in a heatwave. Cool Cotehele is beautiful in so many respects, and at Cotehele Quay you will discover one of the most lovely corners of the Tamar—one which has a rich and interesting history. There’s a short circular walk which takes you through deep woodlands. A few yards downstream from the wharf there’s Cotehele Bridge. Road bridge crossing the Morden stream Cotehele, Devon This crosses the Morden Stream where a path enters the trees. Head up through Elbow Wood, and eventually leave it to cross the lane at Newhouses where you can enter the reassuringly named Comfort Wood. Then walk alongside the stream until the path swings right to climb out of the trees and up over the fields to the hamlet of Newton. From here there are several routes down the valley which lies to the north-east, but I’d recommend the walk along to Norris Green so that you can drop into cool, deep Danescombe where you’ll find the ruined paper-mill which has been renovated by the National Trust. Further down there’s evidence of more industry as you pass disused mine shafts and the remains of a sawmill. It’s a case of returning along the tree-lined path which leads back to Cotehele Quay, past a fantastic viewpoint where you can enjoy a vista of Calstock and its viaduct. Reeds will rustle, trees will sough, and the soft quackings of wading birds will speak of the river’s cool, yielding ooze. What more could you wish for in a heatwave? 4. Gorges and Ravines Some indentations in our landscape are cooler than others. The coolest I know on a grand scale is the Teign Gorge, which makes its way deep through the heart of Devon under the ramparts of Castle Drogo. Last year on a hot day we went to Fingle Bridge for a simple up-one-side and down-the-other walk. The mix of tree cover, fast-flowing river, and deep gorge ensured a very pleasant temperature indeed. We crossed Fingle Bridge to the southern bank and turned right, upstream, passing the old turbine house where electricity for Castle Drogo was generated until 1994. Further on, we crossed the elegant suspension bridge. Upstream again, the river rushes and roars down parts of the defile, falling over rocks in its bustle to be gone. Crossing the footbridge, our route then followed the Teign back downstream where it curves under mighty Hunters Tor. Sticking to the riverside path, the gorge remains deep, remote, and other-worldly. Sharp Tor looms vast and imposing above the valley floor before a long, pleasant meander down-river brings you back to Fingle Bridge for a well-earned pint in the pub. On a hot summer’s day, it’s one of the most perfect, coolest strolls in the West Country. Walker enjoying cool ridge in West Dorset Frequently Asked Questions Q: What are sunken lanes and where can you find them in the South West? A: Sunken lanes (or "hollow ways") are ancient byways carved out over centuries by rain, hooves, and cartwheels. They are particularly common in areas with softer rock, such as the red sandstone zones of Exmoor, West Somerset, East Devon, Dorset, and the South Hams. Because they are shaded by tall, ancient hedgerows and bankings, they stay remarkably damp and cool during heatwaves. Q: Why are Devon hedgerows so special? A: Devon hedges are unique because they are built as earth banks faced with stone or turf, topped with shrubs and flora—unlike hedges in other regions that start at ground level. A quarter of Devon's 33,000 miles of hedgerows are over 800 years old, supporting over 600 plant species, 1,500 insect species, and dozens of bird and mammal species. Q: What are the best cool walks in the West Country during hot weather? A: Great places to escape the heat include: Airy Ridges: High, breezy routes like Beacon Hill and the Great Road in the Quantock Hills. Shaded Coastal Paths: Wooded coastal tracks, such as the beech tunnel route near Combe Martin and Watermouth. Deep River Valleys & Forests: Shaded woodland strolls like those around Cotehele Quay and Comfort Wood on the River Tamar. Steep Ravines & Gorges: Deep river cuts like the Teign Gorge beneath Castle Drogo near Fingle Bridge.

St Mary's Harbour, Isles of Scilly, on a winter's evening I walked the walks and wrote these words years ago while on my regular travels to the archipelago - and did this one alone cold winter’s evening… It’s not the greatest Scillonian hike (not by far) but it is the one I’d do if I only had a couple of hours in the islands - a thing which has happened to me more than once on my journalistic travels. Nor, as it happens, are these my best Scillonian photographs - far from it - they were almost all taken in dark winter light. But I wanted somehow to show that the Scillies are always magical, even outside the sunny months of the year. A winter’s evening in St Mary’s, and barely a soul moved save for one old man who watched the sun as it began to sink over Bishop’s Rock Lighthouse. He turned to me as I passed by and remarked: “Strange light. You never see this light on Scilly. It must be something to do with the east wind.” IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR CORNWALL AND ISLES OF SCILLY PAGE The huts on Porthmellon Sands I was glad he said it, for I too had never seen a gloaming quite like this before in the islands. It was a glowering, sullen, light – the sort of glow you expect might to see on the east coast of Scotland rather than in the far-flung Fortunate Isles. I love to visit the West Country’s archipelago in winter. It is empty, and it is full of surprises. Somehow the island landscape – or rather, the effect the islands have on your soul – reaches deeper at this time of year. IF YOU ENJOY THIS WALK CHECK OUT OUR SPECIAL ST AGNES ARTICLE HERE A friend who was taking me to dinner seemed aghast that I should choose to walk in such an icy gloaming but, having driven west all afternoon and then having flown down from Newquay on the excellent Skybus, I was in the mood for a stroll no matter how cold or brief. My walk took me around the south-west corner of the island. That includes Hugh Town, the harbour, the massive Garrison peninsula and back to Porthcressa Beach at the rear of the town. The Garrison Loop Route & Highlights The walk takes an hour, so it really does make for an ideal pre-dinner promenade. To find the start you must wander west towards the end of Hugh Town's main street and turn left in front of the chemist's shop. You'll see a phone-box standing guard over a steep lane - and up this, passing through the old garrison gateway, you must go. There is a footpath that more-or-less hugs the coastline around the garrison, and to find this take the first right after you pass the little gatehouse cottage. A track takes you diagonally down the hill and passes Store House Battery (where I met the man who remarked upon the evening light) and King Charles' Battery with its splendidly remounted canon. From here I found a path that climbed the hill up to Star Castle so that I could enjoy sweeping panoramas of the islands in the gloaming light. Star Castle is now a hotel, but it was built as an impregnable fortress back in 1593 and gets its name from the shape of its eight-sided central keep, curtain wall and dry moat. Just to the right of the castle you’ll see a campsite and just right of this a footpath branches right and takes you down to Steval Point Battery, which marks the island's most westerly point. You’ll enjoy fabulous views over to St Agnes and distant, lonely Bishop Rock every step of the way. History of the St Mary's Fortifications St Mary's has every right to be proud of its Garrison. Indeed the place is deemed to be of national importance "for the complexity and survival of its fortifications, representing successive periods of raiding, hostility and war." So says English Heritage's leaflet which goes on to explain the Garrison's history from Elizabethan times, through the Civil War years (it became the last Royalist stronghold), and the Spanish Wars of the 18th century. It was further upgraded and used between 1890 and 1910 when there was talk of a war with France and in both the First and Second World Wars. From Steval Point the walk becomes level and easy as you stroll along the wide path just inside the great granite walls. First you pass Colonel George Boscawen's Battery, then Bartholomew Battery, next there's Woolpack Battery at the southerly tip, and eventually you head back to Hugh Town past Morning Point Battery. The path now becomes wooded, quite unlike the wild western slopes of the Garrison. Upon reaching town you'll notice imposing Hugh House looming large and grey just inside the walls. It used to be an officers' mess, but now houses the island headquarters of the Duchy of Cornwall. Next there's Porthcressa Beach and the town. The island’s coast path winds its way past here, down the long and scenic peninsula to the lighthouse at the point and inland above Piper's Hole which is a bay richer in fantastically sculpted rocks than any other I know. Indeed, Pulpit Rock is one of the most extravagant piles of granite that I have seen on my West Country travels. But last week it was too dark to wander around those handsome ramparts, so I repaired to the Mermaid Inn and waxed lyrical to some bemused Scillonians about the unique and glowering light that had, for a few minutes, bathed the islands in its eerie glow. Fact File Martin Hesp flew to the Scillies on Skybus which, at this time of year has departures from Land's End and Newquay – Exeter is added in season. For more information phone: 0845 7105555. Hugh Town main street, St Marys Information on St Mary's walks, accommodation bookings, etc can be gained from the Isles of Scilly Tourist Information Centre - Tel: 01720 422 536. Frequently Asked Questions About Walking St Mary's Garrison How long does the Garrison walk on St Mary's take? The full Garrison circuit takes between 1 and 1.5 hours to complete at a comfortable, leisurely pace. Covering roughly 1.5 to 2 miles, it is an easy, highly accessible promenade that starts and finishes in Hugh Town. Where does the St Mary's Garrison walk start? The walk begins in Hugh Town near the main street pharmacy. Head up the steep lane marked by a traditional telephone box and pass through the historic stone Garrison Gateway to access the perimeter trails. Is the Garrison walk on St Mary's suitable for all fitness levels? Yes, the walk is generally easy and suitable for most fitness levels. There is a short, initial uphill climb from Hugh Town through the Garrison Gateway, after which the perimeter path following the granite fortification walls becomes relatively level and well-maintained. What historical sites can you see on the Garrison walk? The walk features extensive Elizabethan, Civil War, and 18th-century artillery fortifications, including Store House Battery, King Charles' Battery with its remounted cannons, Steval Point, and the 1593 Star Castle (now an iconic island hotel).

As was mentioned in another post, I used to live near the town of Galatas many years ago - it is a lovely place, very genuine and not at all touristy, unlike the Poros, located directly across the channel. The island is just 400 metres from the mainland Peloponnese and when I say touristy, I must qualify that by adding it’s nowhere near as busy as many other Greek islands I could name. Arriving at Poros by hydrofoil I could write a book about the place. Indeed, I sort of have - because my new novel The Lemon Tree Forest will be out soon. As you will see a little later in this article, the book is name after a real local village located on the Galatas side of the straits, just a few minutes boat-ride from Poros. Planning a trip to Poros? If you're inspired to visit this beautiful Greek island, compare hotels, guesthouses and holiday apartments before you travel. Travel writer Martin Hesp in Poros Poros is a small island located in the Saronic Gulf, just an hour's hydrofoil ride away from Athens' bustling port of Piraeus. Its proximity to the mainland and its picturesque landscapes make it an ideal day trip destination for those seeking to experience the tranquil beauty of Greek island life without venturing too far from Athens. Exploring Poros Town Upon arriving, you will be greeted by the island's vibrant capital, Poros Town. Its terracotta-roofed houses are stacked like steps ascending the hillside, culminating in the historic clock tower that crowns the town. This architectural ensemble creates a postcard-perfect panorama best admired from the sea as you approach the island. View from above the Clock Tower on Poros Island Poros Town is a labyrinth of narrow stone-paved streets, packed with quaint shops, traditional tavernas, and cosy cafes. It's the perfect place to enjoy a leisurely stroll, savour the local cuisine, and soak up the island's relaxed atmosphere. Historical Highlights of Poros For history enthusiasts, Poros houses several sites of historical significance. The Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi, built in 1720, stands on a slope overlooking the sea. This splendid structure, surrounded by lush greenery, offers a peaceful retreat and stunning views. Quick Guide to Poros Paste this structured highlight box near the top of your post (under your opening paragraph): Highlight What to Expect Top Tip for Visitors The Amphitheatre Town Neoclassical pastel houses cascading down the hillside to a lively harbour. Climb up to the historic Clock Tower at sunset for panoramic views over the bay. Poros Town Waterfront Vibrant quay lined with traditional fish tavernas, cafes, and sailing yachts. Try local grilled octopus and fresh Mediterranean seafood along the waterfront. Lemon Forest (Galatas) Famous lush lemon groves on the mainland opposite Poros (just a 5-minute boat ride). Take a small water taxi across to explore the fragrant hillside walks. Getting There Just a 1-hour ferry or hydrofoil ride from Athens (Piraeus Port). Ideal as a quiet Saronic Gulf island escape or an easy day trip from Athens. Another must-see is the Archaeological Museum of Poros, showcasing artifacts from the surrounding areas that date back to ancient times. It provides a fascinating insight into the rich history of this region. The monastery on Poros The Best Beaches on Poros Island Poros is blessed with an array of beautiful beaches, each with its unique charm. Love Bay, with its clear, calm waters and sandy beach shaded by pine trees, is a haven for relaxation. Askeli Beach, on the other hand, is ideal for those seeking more active pursuits, with a variety of water sports available. Staying for a few nights? Many of Poros' best beaches are within easy reach of hotels and apartments around the island. Poros is also home to the famous Lemon Forest, or "Lemonodasos", a vast grove of lemon and orange trees located on the nearby mainland, which is accessible via a short boat ride. A walk in the Lemon Forest is a sensory delight, with the air filled with the intoxicating scent of citrus. Savouring Traditional Greek Cuisine Greece is famous for its cuisine, and Poros is no exception. The island offers an array of tavernas and restaurants serving delicious local dishes. Indulge in the traditional Greek salad, "horiatiki", or try the local specialty, "lamb kleftiko" - a slow-cooked lamb dish that is sure to tantalise your taste buds. And of course, no Greek meal is complete without a glass of ouzo! When to Visit The best time to visit Poros is from April to October, when the weather is warm and the seas are calm. However, even in winter, the island has its charm, with fewer tourists and a serene, laid-back ambiance. In Conclusion Poros is a slice of paradise that combines the charm of traditional Greek island life with a wealth of historical sites, natural beauty, and culinary delights. This underrated gem offers a unique experience that will surely make your Greek adventure unforgettable. So, next time you're planning a trip to Greece, why not set your sights on Poros? You won't regret it! Stay tuned for more hidden gems from around the world. Safe travels! Poros Island Travel FAQs How do you get from Athens to Poros? You can easily take a high-speed hydrofoil or ferry from Athens' Piraeus port directly to Poros. The journey takes just about an hour. Where is the Lemon Forest located? The famous Lemon Forest (Lemonodasos) is actually located just across the narrow 400-metre channel on the Peloponnese mainland near Galatas, easily accessible via a quick, 5-minute water taxi ride from Poros. Is Poros Island worth visiting? Yes. It offers a wonderfully authentic slice of traditional Greek island life, excellent seafood, and beautiful pine-fringed beaches, all without the overwhelming crowds of more commercialised islands. Ready to discover Poros? Whether you're planning a romantic escape, a sailing holiday or a few relaxing days after exploring Athens, Poros has accommodation to suit every budget.

West Dorset provides an entirely different walking environment than anywhere I can think of further west—and Chesil Beach is quite different from anywhere else in the world. From the steep-sided hill-forts guarding the Marshwood Vale to hidden dry valleys behind Lulworth, this corner of the world has a landscape formula born in heaven. Here are six of my favourite circular routes across West Dorset, cut down from my newspaper archives, complete with practical route details and a proper local pub near each public footpath. 🏨 Staying in West Dorset? Planning to explore several of these walks? West Dorset makes an excellent base for a two- or three-night break, with charming inns, seaside hotels, cosy B&Bs and holiday cottages close to the Jurassic Coast. Pub garden at the Bottle Inn, West Dorset 1. Abbotsbury, Linton Hill & St Catherine’s Chapel The sun was shining, the sea was sparkling—so there was only one thing for it while staying in West Dorset, and that was to walk, walk, walk. The village of Abbotsbury, West Dorset Abbotsbury is one of those picture-postcard places tucked right under a steep limestone ridge at the western end of Chesil Bank. Every ancient house is built of wonderful honey-coloured stone, and almost every building is thatched—it is Dorset’s Dunster. Setting out from the village car park near the ancient abbey, I headed south towards the famous Swannery before joining the quiet lane past Nunnery Grove. From here, the coast path climbs the western spur of Linton Hill—a magnificent spot to take in Dorset’s coastal ridges, including the distant Hardy Monument looming 237 metres above sea level. After passing Clayhanger Farm, the lane leads back towards the village with spectacular views of St Catherine’s Chapel perched on its strange stepped hill. It is a seaside version of Glastonbury Tor. Climbing to the summit gives you sweeping views across the entire eight-mile shingle expanse of The Fleet lagoon. YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY ANOTHER OF OUR WALKS COLLECTIONS - CLICK HERE The Fleet lagoon Fact File Distance & Going: 3.5 miles; easy to moderate with one short, steep hill climb. Start / Parking: Abbotsbury Abbey car park (DT3 4JJ). Route Summary: Village car park → Swannery lane → Linton Hill → Clayhanger Farm → St Catherine's Hill summit → Village return. Recommended Local Pub The Ilchester Arms (Market Street, Abbotsbury, DT3 4JR) A classic 16th-century stone coaching inn right in the heart of the village. Perfect for untying your boots and enjoying a pint of local Dorset ale after tackling the ridge. St Catherine's Hill Chapel, Anbbotsbury 2. Lambert’s Castle & Coney’s Castle Circuit There are many reasons for taking a walk, but one particularly satisfying excuse is to go in search of a literary connection. My poet pal James Crowden invited me up to Lambert’s Castle Hill after I’d mentioned reawakening a fascination for Geoffrey Household’s classic 1930s thriller, Rogue Male. Martin Hesp taking a walk on Lambert's Castle Hill The high green ridges above the Marshwood Vale served as Household's inspiration for where his hero goes to ground. Starting at the National Trust car park on the B3165, we set off on a figure-of-eight hike taking in both Lambert’s Castle and Coney’s Castle. Around 2,500 years ago, these iron-age hill-forts formed a fierce frontier zone between the Durotriges people to the east and the Dumnonii to the west. Today, the level clockwise walk around the Lambert's Castle plateau offers some of the easiest hill-walking in the region—following a broad track that served as an old horse racecourse for the historic Lambert Hill Fair. A walker on Lambert's Castle Hill Dropping down the south-eastern tip of the ridge, a quiet lane leads across to Coney’s Castle, where ancient ramparts look down the valley towards the English Channel at Charmouth. We looped back around the lower contours via the hamlet of Fishponds before climbing back to the car park. Fact File Distance & Going: 3.5 miles; easy top-walking with one steep descent and climb between the forts. Start / Parking: National Trust Lambert's Castle Car Park, B3165 (DT6 5RB). Route Summary: Lambert’s Castle plateau → South-east ridge descent → Coney’s Castle lane → Fishponds hamlet → Lambert’s Castle ascent. Recommended Local Pub The Bottle Inn (Marshwood, DT6 5QJ) Situated just down the ridge in Marshwood village, this historic 16th-century thatched pub—famous for hosting the World Nettle Eating Championship—remains a proper, welcoming village local. Lord and landlady of The Bottle Inn, 3. Charmouth, Ridge Water & Chardown Hill A visit to Charmouth is a constant reminder of just how dynamic the ever-changing Jurassic Coast really is. In its heyday 195 million years ago, visitors here would have been ordering ammonites by the dozen. Today, the shale cliffs still regularly hurl evidence of ancient history down onto the shingle. The beach at Charmouth I set out from the beach by ascending towards Cain’s Folly, the scene of a massive historic landslide where full-grown trees now populate a secret undercliff. The coast path here wanders close to the edge, dipping down into the lush coombes of Westhay and Ridge Water—where National Trust eco-friendly farming allows wild grasses and wildflowers to thrive. After crossing Ridge Water, I climbed over Broom Cliff, passed Upcott, and took the steep path to the summit of Chardown Hill. Standing three metres higher than the famed Golden Cap nearby, Chardown offers unmatched vistas across Lyme Bay. The return route traverses Stonebarrow Hill westwards before descending Stonebarrow Lane back into Charmouth. SEE OTHER SOUTH WEST COAST PATH WALKS HERE Charmouth Beach looking over to Lyme Regis Fact File Distance & Going: 5 miles; moderate to strenuous with sharp coastal valley ascents. Start / Parking: Charmouth Foreshore Car Park (DT6 6LS). Route Summary: Charmouth seafront → Cain’s Folly → Westhay Coombe → Ridge Water → Chardown Hill → Stonebarrow Hill → Charmouth village. Recommended Local Pub The Royal Standard (The Seafront, Charmouth, DT6 6LN) Positioned right by the shingle at the foot of lower Charmouth, this traditional free house is the place for a post-hike pint of local cask ale right by the sea. Making a weekend of it? These walks are all within easy reach of one another, making them ideal for a long weekend on Dorset's Jurassic Coast. 4. Thomas Hardy’s Cottage & Thorncombe Wood When a romantic fellow is young and moody, he may love a little Thomas Hardy sprinkled among his walks amid southern downs. Standing in the tiny bedroom at Higher Bockhampton where Hardy was born in 1840, you instantly feel the soft burden of rustic history. Thomas Hardy's Cottage This stroll through ancient woodlands and heaths soaks up the world once so beloved by the great writer. Starting near Higher Bockhampton—the village Hardy called Upper Mellstock in his novels—you trail half a mile through the bluebells of Thorncombe Wood down to the poet's old thatched cottage. Leaving the cottage, the trail heads east into the dense pine and heather clearings of what was once Hardy’s wild "untameable" Egdon Heath. Skirting the tranquil waters of Rushy Pond—featured in The Withered Arm—the circular path loops back through the beech arcades of Thorncombe Wood. Fact File Distance & Going: 3 miles; easy, gentle walking along soft forest tracks and woodland paths. Start / Parking: Thorncombe Wood Visitor Centre Car Park, Higher Bockhampton (DT2 8XB). Route Summary: Visitor Centre → Thorncombe Wood → Hardy’s Cottage → Egdon Heath trails → Rushy Pond → Circular return. Recommended Local Pub The Wise Man Inn (West Stafford, DT2 8FI) Located just two miles south in West Stafford (Hardy’s "Mellstock" parish area), this country pub is renowned for its outstanding food, open fires, and great local cask ales. ENJOYR SOME OF OUR CORNISH WALKS HERE Monument to Thomas Hardy as seen on this walk 5. Shaftesbury, Gold Hill & The Two Vales Shaftesbury reminds me more of a hilltop burg in France or Spain than almost anywhere else in England. Perched high on a steep greensand escarpment above two wider vales, it boasts a broad, handsome promenade running right along the southern cliff edge. The classic view of Shaftesbury - Gold Hill My old friend, the poet Catherine Simmonds, took me on a circuit that shows off the very best of this Anglo-Saxon hilltop town. We began by descending footpaths down the steep northern slopes to the village of Enmore Green, before circling the base of the plateau along quiet lanes to St James. From St James, we tackled the steep cobbles of Gold Hill—made famous worldwide by Ridley Scott’s iconic 1970s Hovis advertisement. After passing the massive stone bastions of historic Shaftesbury Abbey, we finished with a stroll along Park Walk, taking in the vast panoramas stretching across the Blackmore Vale. The steep woodland path, Shaftesbury Fact File Distance & Going: 2.5 miles; easy distance, but includes one very steep cobbled incline. Start / Parking: Bell Street Car Park, Shaftesbury (SP7 8JR). Route Summary: Town Centre → Enmore Green descent → St James village → Gold Hill climb → Abbey wall → Park Walk promenade. Recommended Local Pub The Mitre (High Street, Shaftesbury, SP7 8JE) Situated right near the head of Gold Hill, The Mitre features a dramatic multi-level sun terrace offering breathtaking panoramic views straight out across the vale. View looking out over West Dorset from Shaftesbury 6. Lulworth Cove, Durdle Door & Scratchy Bottom The section of coast path between Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door gets crowded on the sunniest days, but striking off inland reveals empty, rolling chalk countryside that feels a million miles away from the seaside crowds. Walkers down in Lulworth Cove Starting at West Lulworth, this route avoids the main cliff climb by heading inland past Hambury Farm, walking up the quiet grassy valley behind Hambury Tout. Not a soul did I see until reaching the watershed, where the path plunges down into a large, riverless chalk amphitheatre known delightfully as Scratchy Bottom. At the sea end of the valley, the path joins the South West Coast Path. Turning east brings you past the iconic limestone arch of Durdle Door. A climb over the 440-foot crest of Hambury Tout rewards you with views of the Lulworth military ranges to the east and Portland Bill to the west, before descending past Stair Hole into the blue waters of Lulworth Cove. Fact File Distance & Going: 3.5 miles; moderate with a few sustained chalk-downland climbs. Start / Parking: Lulworth Cove Visitor Centre Car Park (BH20 5RS). Route Summary: Lulworth Cove car park → Hambury Farm → Scratchy Bottom valley → Coast Path east → Durdle Door → Hambury Tout → Stair Hole → Lulworth Cove. Recommended Local Pub The Castle Inn (Main Street, West Lulworth, BH20 5UQ) A beautifully restored 16th-century thatched pub located just up the street from the cove. It offers a great selection of real ales, cider, and fresh local Dorset seafood away from the immediate beach crowds. TAKE A LOOK AT OUR SOMERSET WALKS PAGE HERE The classic rock arch at Durdle Door Planning Your Dorset Walking Holiday Whether you're looking for a country inn, a coastal hotel or a self-catering cottage, you'll find plenty of excellent places to stay within easy reach of these six walks. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) What is the best time of year to walk in West Dorset? Spring and autumn are ideal. Spring brings bluebells to Thorncombe Wood and blooming wildflowers along the coastal coombes, while clear autumn days offer crisp, panoramic views across the Marshwood Vale and Chesil Beach without the summer heat or heavy holiday crowds. Are these West Dorset walking routes dog-friendly? Yes, all six routes follow public rights of way and established coastal trails suitable for dogs. However, please keep dogs on leads near livestock—especially around the chalk downlands near Lulworth and the sheep grazing on Lambert's Castle—and be mindful of steep cliff edges along the South West Coast Path. What is the toughest walk on this list? The Charmouth to Chardown Hill circular is the most physically demanding due to the steep coastal valley ascents and sharp climbs over Broom Cliff. For an easier, level stroll with minimum gradient, opt for the top loop around Lambert’s Castle or the woodland paths surrounding Thomas Hardy’s Cottage. Can I complete these walks using public transport? While rural Dorset is easiest to navigate by car, major trailheads like Shaftesbury, Charmouth, and Lulworth Cove have regular regional bus connections from main hubs like Weymouth, Dorchester, and Axminster. Why avoid walking directly along Chesil Beach? Walking on the small-grained shingle of Chesil Bank is extremely tiring on the legs, and because the eight-mile Fleet Lagoon separates the beach from the mainland, there are no exit points. Dips onto the cliff paths and inland ridges—such as the Abbotsbury to Linton Hill route—offer the best views of Chesil Beach without the grueling shingle trudge.

The Lulworth Cove to Durdle Door section of the coast path gets crowded even on the bleakest of days and it must have been heaving a few weeks ago when the sun was shining. Now, though, it’ll be relatively quiet - and with the promise of a few warm days to come I can’t think of a better time of year to visit one of the region’s most iconic stretches of coastline. People have been walking along bits of the coast for a very long time. In fact, many cliff-top paths were developed by coastguards and excise-men who patrolled West Country shores looking for smugglers. It was only in 1978 that the various local authorities, with backing from central government, finally managed to tie the whole route into one long continuous right-of-way which hugs the shoreline around the peninsula. Until then the many sections had different names like the Cornwall Coast Path, the Somerset and North Devon, etc. 🏨 Where to Stay Near Lulworth Cove Whether you're planning a weekend break or a longer Dorset holiday, you'll find hotels, cosy B&Bs, seaside cottages and family-friendly accommodation close to Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door. Nowadays the trail costs a million pounds a year to maintain. Keeping the whole 630-miles walkable is no easy task. In some areas giant landslips have required lengthy detours. Coastal erosion is a problem in many places where cliff-top paths have had to be moved inland. Thousands of fingerposts and other ‘countryside furniture’ have to be painted and replaced. All of which brings me to the fabulous, airy, panoramic coastal walk that will take you from Lulworth Cove over the 440-foot hill called Hambury Tout to Durdle Door. It boasts one of the best laid sections of coast path you’ll find. What you will see from that path, by the way, is the fact that this coastal zone is situated in an pleasantly rural part of Southern England – which comes as a nice surprise after you’ve beaten your way through the crowds at Lulworth Cove. After you turn off the main Dorchester-Bournemouth and pass through village of Winfrith Newburgh, you enter empty English countryside of the chalk-land variety. It is wide and rolling, for the most part treeless – there’s no network of hedgerows like you’d find in the West Country proper, no deep sunken lanes or red soil - just open and rather lovely countryside. When you arrive at West Lulworth – which is the village that boasts the famous cove – you might wonder about this description, because it can, as I say, be crowded. So too can that footpath which you’ll see ascending out of the car park heading west for the coast and Durdle Door. Which might inspire you to follow the quieter public right of way that strikes off inland. This took us close to Hambury Farm before veering left and climbing the inland flanks of the big hill. Not a soul did we see as we walked up the grassy valley at the rear of Hambury Tout – at least, we didn’t see anyone until we reached the top where the watershed is crowned by a holiday centre and yet another car park. I decided to turn left here and walk in the opposite direction of Durdle Door. By which I mean we went inland again, this time around Newlands Farm to find the footpath which strikes westwards and downwards. Why go that way? Because I couldn’t resist visiting Scratchy Bottom. Who could? It will go into my list of wonderful Westcountry place-names. Not that there’s much at Scratchy Bottom. It is a large amphitheatre of a riverless valley that plunges toward the sea – and our footpath simply marches down it around the flanks of Newlands Warren. At the sea-end of Scratchy Bottom, inevitably, we meet up with the aforementioned Coast Path. By turning left, or east, along it all we had to do was stroll the half mile back to Durdle Door where we could admire the giant white rock stack that boasts a massive and famous arch. We were tempted to make our return to Lulworth Cove along the beach – but we had no idea of tide times and I can warn you in big red letters that such a thing would be foolhardy without good local knowledge of conditions and tides. So, instead, up that 440-foot hill we went… Along with many other strollers who were lured to do the almost compulsory mile-long walk that takes folk between Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door. It’s all very pleasant. Climbing Hambury Tout may have been the most populated bit of coastal walking I’ve done in years, but I liked it. Especially at the top where we stopped and sat so we could admire the views. There’s the great empty swathe of the Lulworth Camp military firing ranges to the east – a virgin tract of countryside that has not been dwelt in by mankind for 50 years. And there, to the west, was Weymouth with its bay curving south to Portland Bill. And below, Lulworth - with its impossibly blue and twinkling cove. Fantastic. A view worth 10,000 feet, let alone 440. All we had to do was descend – choosing, in our case, to take the little path on the right halfway down the hill. This takes you down past Dungy Head and its few posh looking houses, to the fascinating geological feature known as Stair Hole – which I am told is a mini-Lulworth Cove in the making. A few yards past that gaping abyss we came to the famous cove itself, where we beat our way through the crowds to find a warm beer garden and lunch. CHECK OUT OUR WEST DOREST WALKS WITH PUBS Fact File Basic Walk: From Lulworth Cove inland around Hambury Tout hill – over watershed to Scratchy Bottom – and back via coast path. Distance and going: three and half miles, easy going – though there are some climbs. Some Local knowledge Handy Hardy’s Cottage On the way to Lulworth we called at Thomas Hardy’s old cottage which is in the care of the National Trust nowadays - small sometimes crowded but well worth a visit. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hardys-cottage Swoop to see the Swans And on the way back from Lulworth we couldn’t resist a visit to The Swannery at Abbotsbury. Not only did we see a great many big white birds - we also enjoyed the scenery that surrounds this beautiful place. www.abbotsbury-tourism.co.uk/swannery/ Winging it to West Bay Also on the way back we called at West Bay for fish and chips in one of the may cafes and eateries that surround this Dorset harbour. A must if you love the general jollity of seaside crowds.

Image by rawpixel.com on Magnific The cheapest steak I have ever eaten cost four dollars and ninety-five cents, arrived at two in the morning, and was not really a steak. It was a device. Somebody had calculated, quite precisely, how long a four-dollar steak would keep a person inside a building, and what that person was likely to do while they were there. This is not a story about bad food. It is a story about what happens to a plate of food when it is asked to sell something other than itself, and it explains rather a lot about why the food in front of you costs what it costs. The Meal That Is Not the Product The loss leader is the oldest trick in retail and the least understood by the people it is worked on. A supermarket sells a rotisserie chicken below cost, positions it at the back of the shop, and recovers the difference across the aisles you walk through to reach it. A cinema shows the film at close to no margin, because in the opening weeks the distributor takes most of the ticket, and then sells you popcorn at a markup that would embarrass a jeweller. A pub sets its food prices to keep you at the table, because the table is where you order the second bottle. In each case the item you believe you are buying is the bait, and the item you are actually buying is somewhere else on the receipt. The kitchen is not a profit centre. It is a duration device, engineered to hold you in place. What a Free Buffet Was Actually Buying There is no online equivalent, and it is worth being precise about why. Nothing of this kind attaches to licensed online gambling operators. There is no dining room, no kitchen, nobody circulating with a tray. There is nothing to comp, because there is nothing to leave. The whole apparatus of subsidised hospitality existed to solve a problem that a telephone does not have. Which means, incidentally, that if you have ever wondered where the free buffet went, part of the answer is that it stopped being necessary. The Great Inversion Here is the part that surprises people, and it is well documented in the revenue statistics the Nevada Gaming Control Board has been publishing for decades. Somewhere in the 1990s the ratio flipped. Non-gaming revenue on the Strip overtook gaming revenue, and it has never gone back. Rooms, restaurants, shows and retail became the business. The floor became an amenity attached to a hotel, rather than a hotel attached to a floor. The consequence for food was immediate and dramatic. The moment a restaurant was expected to earn its own keep, it stopped being a duration device and became a restaurant. Serious chefs arrived, because for the first time there was a reason to pay them. The food in Las Vegas became genuinely good at precisely the moment it stopped being free. That is not a coincidence. It is the whole mechanism, running in reverse. The Pub, the Cinema, the Airline Look for the inversion elsewhere and you find it everywhere. Airline meals were dreadful for as long as they were included in the fare, which is to say for as long as they were a cost to be minimised rather than a product to be sold. Then carriers unbundled, began charging separately, and the food improved, not because anyone became more generous but because a thing you pay for separately must justify itself separately. British pub food followed the same arc. For thirty years it existed to slow your drinking, and it tasted like it. Then beer margins compressed, food became the profit centre rather than the bait, and the gastropub arrived. Everyone complained about the prices and everyone ate better. The cinema is the last holdout, and the popcorn remains what it has always been, which is the actual product. Why the Food Got Better There is a general principle buried in all this, and it is useful to a diner. Food that is subsidised by something else will be exactly as good as it needs to be to keep you where you are, and no better. Food that must pay its own way will be as good as the market for it demands. If you want to know whether a kitchen is trying, work out what the building is actually selling. The corollary is more cheerful than it sounds. Almost everywhere, over the last thirty years, food has stopped being the bait and started being the point. The hotel makes its money on the restaurant. The pub makes its money on the plate. The casino floor turned out to be the amenity all along. The four-dollar steak has gone, and I do not miss it. I do, occasionally, admire the arithmetic.