The Watergate Bay Hotel as seen across the sands at low water There are plenty of reasons for staying at Watergate Bay, but one of the best is something that has little to do with the hotel itself. It is the walking. I have stayed at the Watergate Bay Hotel a couple of times and always liked the idea that, once you've parked the car, you are already in one of the most spectacular stretches of north Cornwall. And within a few miles there are some superb coastal walks taking in enormous beaches, towering cliffs, hidden coves and some of the wildest scenery in this part of the county. The dramatic beach at Bedruthan Steps Two of my favourite walks are around Bedruthan Steps and Porth Mear, just a few miles north of Watergate Bay. One is a relatively short circular walk that concentrates on the great drama of the cliffs. The other starts at Porthcothan and takes a longer inland-and-coastal route through some wonderfully quiet Cornish countryside before joining the coast near Bedruthan. Together they make a pretty convincing case for using Watergate Bay as a base for a walking break. Watergate Bay Hotel Watergate Bay is one of those places where the geography does much of the work. The hotel sits immediately above the huge sweep of beach, with the Atlantic stretching away in front of it. It is close enough to Newquay to be convenient, but once you are looking out over the sea it feels considerably more removed from the town. I've stayed here a couple of times and particularly like the fact that it works as a proper base rather than somewhere you simply return to after a day sightseeing. You can walk on the beach, eat well, look at the Atlantic and, most importantly for the purposes of this article, get out into some wonderful coastal walking country without having to spend half the day driving. And if you head north from Watergate Bay, the coast quickly becomes increasingly spectacular. Walk 1: Bedruthan Steps and Porth Mear Bedruthan Steps is one of the most dramatic bits of coast to be found anywhere in England, let alone along the West Country. The beaches, rock islands and cliffs between Park Head in the north and Trerathick Point in the south combine to create a scene so sensational that countless thousands of visitors come here every year simply to stand on the cliff top and go oooh-and-aaah. But there is a way of experiencing Bedruthan that is considerably more rewarding than simply looking at it from the National Trust car park. Park at the National Trust's Carnewas car park and follow the path towards the sea. The anticipation builds as the specially constructed stone path carries you towards the cliffs. Then suddenly you are on the brink. And you understand what all the fuss is about. SEE MORE OF OUR CORNISH WALKS HERE View from the top of Bedruth Steps near the National Trust car park The cliffs here are mighty — and horribly vertical. There is no need for an ugly fence along the cliff edge to tell you that this is somewhere to take care. Sensible people naturally keep well back. The great attraction, however, is the possibility of descending the cliff staircase to the beach. There is an important caveat. The staircase is not always open, and the beach section of the walk is dependent on tides and conditions. The National Trust closes the steps when they consider the descent unsafe, and you should always check the current arrangements and tide times before setting off. When I did this walk, we were lucky enough to get down. The staircase is surprisingly steep and, at times, alarmingly so. At the bottom we headed north across the rocks, passing the stack known as Redcove Island, before finding a natural cave which took us underneath the cliffs. Beyond it was a beautiful, virtually empty bay, with sands stretching towards Samaritan Island. It was one of those moments when Cornwall seems to have been keeping its best scenery hidden. The coast north of Bedruthan Steps Back on the clifftop, the route continues north along the coast path, past Samaritan Island and the more substantial Diggory's Island before reaching Pentire Steps and Park Head. The path doesn't actually take you out to the extreme tip of Park Head, although you can explore further if you wish. Given the precipitous nature of the cliffs, I would advise considerable caution. The coast path then turns north-east above a couple of wonderfully craggy and inaccessible coves before dropping dramatically into Porth Mear. This is one of my favourite places in Cornwall. The coast path plunges into a steep V-shaped valley which has an extraordinary untouched quality. At its end lies Porth Mear itself, a beautiful little cove and a superb place for rock-pooling. When my children were young, reaching the Trescore Islands at low tide was one of those small Cornish adventures that could occupy them for hours. This time I was walking rather than messing about in rock pools, so the route heads inland up the valley along a permissive path towards Pentire Farm. From there another path crosses the fields before returning to Pentire Steps and the coast path, eventually bringing you back to Carnewas. The valley that cuts into the Cornish landscape at Porth Mear Cove, Porthcothan It is a lasso-shaped walk with the opportunity for a seaside adventure — and, put simply, one of the best hikes of that description you will find anywhere. Bedruthan Steps walk: at a glance Start: National Trust Carnewas car park Distance: About 3.5 miles Going: Generally easy, although the descent to the beach involves a steep staircase Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 106 Important: Check National Trust access arrangements and tide times before attempting the beach section. The lonely cove of Porth Mear on the north Cornish coast Walk 2: Porthcothan to Bedruthan The second walk begins a little further south at Porthcothan, but eventually brings you into the same spectacular stretch of coast. It is a longer walk — about seven miles — and has a rather different character because it combines inland lanes, farmland, wildlife and quiet valleys with the great coastal drama of Bedruthan. I originally came here partly because I was looking for corn buntings. CHECK OUT MORE OF OUR SOUTH WEST COAST PATH WALKS HERE The main beach at Porthcothan They are not immediately obvious members of the great ornithological pantheon. They look rather like fat sparrows and, in Cornwall, have become an increasingly scarce bird. At the time I wrote the original article, this particular section of the north Cornish coast represented one of their last remaining strongholds. I had been visiting farmers who were working with the RSPB to manage their land in ways that would help the birds. And while I was there, Ordnance Survey Explorer 106 suggested that there was also a rather good circular walk to be found in the area. The rich birdlife along the coast near Porthcothan Porthcothan itself is a magnificent starting point. Its huge golden beach stretches inland with all the self-importance of a great river in its final approach to the sea. Except there isn't really a river at all — merely a modest stream. Follow that stream inland and the landscape changes completely. The path runs alongside it towards Porthcothan Mill and eventually reaches the little hamlet of Penrose. There is something almost Irish about Penrose. It is one of those lonely Cornish settlements that somehow seems to have wandered across the Atlantic and ended up in the wrong country. From here the route heads south along lanes and tracks before climbing towards Trethewell and eventually crossing fields towards Trevorgey. The landscape is peaceful and agricultural, a useful reminder that the north Cornish coast isn't simply cliffs and beaches. Behind the spectacular shoreline there is a working countryside of farms, lanes, hedges and valleys. The so called Trescore Islands at Porthcothan Eventually you have the option of heading towards the Bedruthan area. On my walk I avoided the crowds around the National Trust car park and took a shorter route towards Pentire Farm. This is National Trust country, and the quiet valleys around here are particularly good for wildlife. Porth Mear is again one of the highlights. The valley behind it has an almost Mediterranean or Spanish feel in places, with dry-stone walls and tamarisk bending in the salty wind. The tamarisk fascinated me when I first walked here. A National Trust countryside manager explained that it is extremely salt-resistant and makes an effective windbreak beside the sea. The same valley also provides valuable wildlife habitat. And somewhere around here I heard the unmistakable call of the corn bunting — a sound which really does resemble a jangling bunch of keys. Eventually the route returns towards the coast and the Bedruthan country, giving you the opportunity to enjoy some of the finest scenery on this stretch of Cornwall before completing the circuit. Porthcothan–Bedruthan walk: at a glance Start: Porthcothan Cove Distance: About 7 miles Going: Generally easy Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 106 Highlights: Porthcothan, Penrose, Pentire Farm, Porth Mear, Bedruthan and the north Cornish coast Character: A mixture of inland tracks, lanes, farmland and spectacular coast. Why Watergate Bay makes such a good base The great advantage of staying at Watergate Bay is that you don't have to choose between a traditional Cornish holiday and a walking break. You can have both. Spend a morning walking the cliffs and coves around Bedruthan, return to the hotel for a shower and a leisurely afternoon, then go down to Watergate Bay itself and watch the Atlantic rolling in. Alternatively, tackle the longer Porthcothan circuit and return knowing you've spent several hours exploring a section of Cornwall which is surprisingly wild despite being relatively close to Newquay. Newquay/Holywell – another coastal walk very close to Watergate Bay: Cornish Seaside Walks: Holywell – a beautiful walk just outside Newquay Cornwall beaches: Martin Hesp's Favourite Beaches in the West Country View from my room at Watergate Bay Hotel, And there are plenty of other possibilities in the same general area. The coast south of Watergate Bay leads towards Mawgan Porth and eventually Newquay. Head north and you quickly reach Bedruthan, Park Head and Porth Mear, while continuing towards Padstow opens up yet more superb walking. This is what I particularly like about Watergate Bay as a base. It isn't simply a hotel beside a famous beach. It puts you within easy reach of a remarkable piece of Cornwall. For walkers, that matters. Because sometimes the best way to appreciate a great hotel is to spend the day walking through the landscape around it — and then come back to somewhere comfortable overlooking the same Atlantic you have just been battling your way along. Watergate Bay and the coast around Bedruthan provide exactly that combination. Low tide at Watergate Bay More Cornwall walking and places to stay If you're planning a walking break in Cornwall, you might also enjoy my other features on places to stay and walks around the county. I've gradually been bringing together some of my favourite Cornish hotels, guesthouses and coastal walks based on places I have actually stayed and walked. Polzeath and the Pentire Point/The Rumps walk: Winter Week in Polzeath – including the spectacular Pentire Point and The Rumps walk Watergate Bay is particularly good for anyone who wants spectacular coastal scenery without being completely cut off from the comforts of a proper hotel. And after a day on the cliffs, there are few better sights than the Atlantic from Watergate Bay. Frequently Asked Questions Is Watergate Bay a good base for walking in North Cornwall? Yes. Watergate Bay is particularly well placed for exploring the north Cornish coast. Bedruthan Steps, Porth Mear and Porthcothan are all within easy reach, while there are many other coastal walks around Newquay and towards Padstow. What are the best walks near Watergate Bay? Two particularly rewarding walks are the circular walk around Bedruthan Steps and Porth Mear, and the longer Porthcothan to Bedruthan route. Both combine dramatic coastal scenery with quieter inland sections. How far is Bedruthan Steps from Watergate Bay? Bedruthan Steps is only a few miles north of Watergate Bay, making it an easy excursion if you are staying at the Watergate Bay Hotel. Can you walk down to Bedruthan beach? There is a steep staircase giving access to the beach when it is open, but access is not guaranteed. The National Trust closes the staircase when conditions make the descent unsafe. Tide times are also extremely important because visitors can become cut off. Is the Bedruthan Steps walk suitable for everyone? The main clifftop walking is relatively straightforward, but the cliffs are high and exposed and the descent to the beach involves a steep staircase. Anyone attempting the beach section should be comfortable with steep steps and should check conditions before setting out. Is Porth Mear worth visiting? Very much so. Porth Mear is one of my favourite places on this stretch of the Cornish coast, with a beautiful secluded cove at the end of a steep valley. It also makes a lovely contrast to the dramatic cliffs and crowds around Bedruthan Steps. Is Watergate Bay good for a walking holiday? It can be an excellent base for a walking break, particularly for people who want to combine proper coastal walking with a comfortable hotel, restaurants and the beach. The location makes it possible to explore several sections of the North Cornwall coast without having to change accommodation.

Airports can turn even a simple trip into a test of patience. Long terminals, crowded security queues, narrow aisles, and last-minute gate changes make manoeuvrability an important consideration when choosing luggage. A suitcase that rolls smoothly and responds easily to changes in direction can make getting from the entrance to the gate much more manageable. What Makes a Suitcase Easy to Manoeuvre Through Airports? Several design elements can make a suitcase easier to move through a busy airport. One of the most important is the wheel system. Spinner-style wheels that rotate in multiple directions allow travellers to push, pull, or move a suitcase alongside them without constantly repositioning it. BÉIS luggage, for example, uses 360-degree rotating wheels designed to glide through terminals. The handle is another important consideration. A comfortable, sturdy telescopic handle makes it easier to maintain control while walking. A suitcase with thoughtful interior organisation can also make a difference, as keeping belongings secure and evenly distributed makes the bag easier to handle. Size matters, too. A smaller suitcase can be particularly convenient when navigating crowded terminals, boarding areas, and overhead-locker spaces. Travellers should consider their trip length and packing needs before selecting a size. Cabin-bag options are designed for shorter trips and essential items, while larger hold luggage provides additional capacity for longer travel. Should You Choose Cabin Luggage or Luggage Sets? The choice between a single cabin bag and a set depends largely on the type of travel you typically do. If you prefer travelling light or frequently take shorter trips, carry on luggage can offer a convenient solution. A cabin bag avoids the need to wait at baggage reclaim and gives travellers easier access to their belongings throughout the journey. For longer holidays or trips requiring more packing space, luggage sets can provide multiple sizes for different travel needs. A set may include both cabin and hold luggage, making it easier to choose the appropriate bag depending on the length of a trip. BÉIS currently offers individual cabin and checked options alongside travel sets, giving travellers flexibility when building a collection. Ultimately, the easiest suitcase to manoeuvre is one that matches the traveller's needs. Smooth-rolling wheels, a comfortable handle, manageable dimensions, and practical organisation can all contribute to a less stressful airport experience. Choosing the right combination of size and functionality can help travellers move confidently from check-in to boarding and beyond. Paid-for partnership. This article was produced in collaboration with BÉIS.

Newquay is one of the finest seaside resorts to be found in Britain. There, I've said it. Its beaches are first-class, its surf is extraordinary and its vast tourism offering, for the most part, runs like a well-oiled machine. It even has one of the most pleasant little harbours on Cornwall's north coast. Newquay shoreline as the sun goes down So it is perhaps no surprise that, when I was writing a series about the great West Country seaside resorts, Newquay had to be included. And yet for years I had rather misunderstood the place. I regarded Newquay as a town of enormous beaches backed by cliffs and topped by the most remarkable jumble of B&Bs, hotels and sundry other bits and pieces of anarchic architecture to be found anywhere along Europe's northern coast. A place where the planners had apparently said: "To hell with it, build what you like." A resort seemingly more attuned to its amusement arcades than anything that might sniff of the sea. Newquay Harbour I was wrong. Newquay is all about its seaside. Like all the resorts in that old series, the coast – and nothing but the coast – is its finest feature. I was reminded of that when I surfed Fistral Beach in my own pretty useless middle-aged way. It was one of those wonderfully daft experiences in which you spend most of your time being thrown around by the Atlantic and yet enjoy every single, white-foamed, washing-machine moment of it. And afterwards I went looking for another side of Newquay. The Newquay that sits below the hill There is a curious divide in the town. Up on the main streets you find the shops, bars, restaurants, hotels and all the things associated with a major holiday resort. Down at the harbour, it feels like another place altogether. For years I have regarded Newquay Harbour as one of the best-kept secrets on Cornwall's north coast. Local fishermen I have known, including Phil Trebilcock, have always made the same point: there are still people who come to Newquay without realising that it has a harbour at all. That seems almost impossible. Newquay harbour But spend a little time down there and you begin to understand what they mean. The harbour is tucked below the town, and the views open out along the coast towards Trevose Head, Watergate Bay and Bedruthan Steps. As Phil once put it to me, you are looking at a wonderful natural amphitheatre. There is also an extraordinary piece of Newquay history hidden beneath the town. The steep tunnel leading down towards the harbour was excavated by St Dennis miners for the Newquay Harbour Railway, which opened in 1849. Almost all trace of that railway has disappeared, but the tunnel remains. When I visited, it was being used by Newquay Gig Rowing Club to store its historic boats. Phil was particularly keen that visitors should see more of this side of Newquay. He talked about the old gigs, the harbour and the coastline, but also about places that most visitors never get around to seeing – Trenance Gardens, the boating lake and, above all, The Gannel. He was right. Because The Gannel is where Newquay really begins to surprise you. The Gannel: the Newquay that never was The Gannel is Newquay's own little estuary, flowing into the sea just south of the town. There were various schemes over the years to dam, reclaim or develop parts of the area so that Newquay could expand across the dunes. Imagine the horrors that might have gone up had that happened. Fortunately, The Gannel survived. As a result, just a few hundred yards south of the centre of one of Cornwall's busiest holiday resorts, there is a wonderfully undeveloped stretch of coast, dunes, estuary and countryside. The National Trust owns much of the surrounding land, helping to protect it from the sort of development that has altered so much of the coast elsewhere. And this brings me to one of my favourite walks in the Newquay area. The approach to the beach at Hollyell near Newquay Holywell Bay and Kelsey Head The walk starts a few miles south of Newquay at Holywell, near the National Trust car park. It is a surprisingly beautiful corner of Cornwall and a useful reminder that the Newquay coastline is considerably more varied than Fistral Beach and the town's famous surf breaks. From the car park I made my way down towards Holywell Bay. I had never properly explored the beach before and, having reached it, decided to walk along the sand rather than immediately join the coast path. I'm glad I did. North Cornwall — Tregardock If you enjoy this wilder side of North Cornwall, I've also written about a spectacular walk around Tregardock Beach, another of the coast's less-visited corners. Tregardock Beach and one of North Cornwall's best coastal walks Hollywell Beach Holywell is one of those beaches that makes you wonder why somewhere so spectacular is not better known. The great sweep of golden sand is framed by high dunes and cliffs, while Carter's Rocks sit out towards Penhale Point. More than 70 years ago, Cornish writer JRA Hockin described it as possibly the sweetest bay in England. I wouldn't argue with him. There is also Holywell Cave in the cliffs to the north, although this is not somewhere to wander into casually. The steps are slippery and the National Trust advises caution. Certainly it should never be approached on a rising tide. Instead, I headed up through the dunes to regain the coast path. This is quite a climb. The dunes are enormous and the marram grass is fragile, so it is important to stick to the established paths and wooden steps where provided. Then the landscape opens out again as the path heads north towards Kelsey Head. CHECK OUT OUR DEDICATED CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE Ancient Cornwall at Kelsey Head Kelsey Head is one of those places where the modern holiday coast suddenly gives way to something much older. The headland contains three ancient enclosures, their banks and walls still visible among the grass. At the end of the headland are the remains of an ancient cliff castle. It is easy to see why such a place was chosen for defence, perched above the Atlantic with cliffs providing a natural barrier. But whenever I encounter these old cliff castles I have the same thought: What happened when the water ran out? Just offshore is The Chick, a small rocky island, while the surrounding grassland and cliffs provide a rich habitat for wildlife. On my walk I saw a stoat loping through the flowers. The number of rabbit holes suggested that it wasn't short of work. Polly Joke – or Porth Joke Walking back along the north-east side of Kelsey Head brings you to one of the area's loveliest little beaches. Its proper name is Porth Joke. But nobody seems to call it that. Locals call it Polly Joke. I have never been entirely sure why, although the "Joke" element is apparently related to the same Cornish root as "chough", the red-legged Cornish cliff bird. From here the route heads inland through the valley before climbing towards Cubert Common. And once again the landscape changes. There is a long tradition of claiming that the grasslands around here produced the sweetest mutton in England. JRA Hockin suggested the area's rich vegetation might have been responsible, while another theory was that sheep acquired their distinctive flavour from eating the tiny slugs and snails that lived among the turf-covered sandhills. I rather liked the idea. Unfortunately, I was unable to test it. Headland Hotel Newquay as seen thro the former Coastguard Lookout The return to Holywell From Cubert Common the walk returns over the ridge, past the northern edge of the golf course and down towards Holywell. It is an easy hike, but what makes it special is the variety. Beach. Dunes. Ancient earthworks. Clifftops. Wild flowers. An estuary. And all of it within a few miles of one of Britain's best-known seaside resorts. That is the Newquay I have come to appreciate. SEE OUR SPECIAL PAGE DEDICATED TO THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH And then there is The Headland There is another reason I think this part of Cornwall makes such a good base for exploring. The Headland. I have stayed at The Headland a couple of times and, rather oddly, I can't find the piece I wrote about it. Perhaps it is buried somewhere among the many thousands of words I have produced over the years. The Headland Hotel, Newquay But perhaps that is no bad thing. It gives me an excuse to mention it here, because The Headland fits perfectly into this story. The great Victorian hotel stands on Towan Headland directly above Fistral Beach. It was built between 1897 and 1900 and is now Grade II listed. It is one of those buildings that has become part of the landscape. You see it from Fistral. You see it from the coast path. And when you look back towards Newquay from the surrounding headlands, its big Victorian bulk helps make sense of the town's history as a fashionable seaside resort. The hotel has had quite a history. Its beginnings were controversial, with local fishermen and farmers objecting strongly to the development of the Towan Headland. There were even violent protests and fires during construction before the hotel eventually opened its doors to guests in 1900. It subsequently became one of Cornwall's great destination hotels, suffered a long period of decline and was rescued in 1979 when John and Carolyn Armstrong bought it. Since then it has undergone a remarkable transformation. Today it combines the grand Victorian building with a much more relaxed version of luxury. There are 86 bedrooms, the Headland Spa and AquaClub, and several restaurants, including Ugly Butterfly by Adam Handling. And the location remains the great attraction. The hotel is about half a mile from the centre of Newquay and sits immediately beside Fistral Beach. For someone interested in walking, that is particularly useful. Then, after a day's walking, you have the slightly ridiculous luxury of returning to a grand Victorian hotel perched above one of Cornwall's finest surfing beaches. I've done it. And I can recommend the combination. The Headland also understands that not everyone staying in a five-star hotel wants to spend their entire holiday sitting in a lounge. Its current offering includes a five-bubble spa, AquaClub and several dining options, while the hotel itself describes its approach as "five-star Cornwall, not formal". That seems about right to me. You can dress up and eat well if you want to. Or you can come back from a walk with salt in your hair and sand on your boots. View from my room at The Headland Hotel, What about Newquay's reputation? Which brings me back to the old question. What about the stag and hen parties? What about the drunken nights and the rather noisy reputation that has followed Newquay around for years? Well, yes. Newquay has had that side to it. But when I was researching my original article, the people I spoke to in the harbour were already telling me that it represented only a small part of the town. Phil Trebilcock put it rather neatly. "Newquay is not about stag and hen parties – you always get the minority spoiling it for the rest." Another harbour character, Roger Spurrel, told me that the harbour was effectively a different world from the top of the hill. Fisherman Martin Gilbert, who had lived in Newquay for almost half a century, said much the same thing. "This is a different world down here," he told me. The old huers' hut at Newquay I think that is still the best way of understanding Newquay. Don't judge the whole town by what happens on one street on one Saturday night in August. Come here and explore it. Walk the beaches. Go down to the harbour. Find The Gannel. Head out to Holywell and Kelsey Head. Look at the ancient cliffs and the flowers growing among the dunes. And, if you want to make a proper break of it, stay somewhere that allows you to experience the coast rather than simply the town. The Headland is one obvious choice. Because ultimately Newquay isn't really about the bars, the shops or even the surf industry. It is about the sea. And when you get away from the obvious bits, you discover that there is a remarkable amount of it. WALK FACT FILE Route: Holywell – Holywell Bay – Kelsey Head – Polly Joke/Porth Joke – Cubert Common – Holywell Distance: About 3 miles Going: Easy, although there are steep sections through the dunes Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 104 – Redruth & St Agnes Starting point: National Trust car park at Holywell Best time: Spring is particularly good for the wild flowers, although the walk is rewarding throughout the year. Take care: Keep to established paths through the dunes to protect the marram grass. Holywell Cave should not be approached on a rising tide and the slippery steps require particular care. The Headland Hotel looms over Fistral Beach at Newquay WHERE TO STAY The Headland, Newquay For a walking break, The Headland is unusually well placed: above Fistral Beach, around half a mile from central Newquay and within easy reach of the harbour, The Gannel and the wider north Cornwall coast. I've stayed here a couple of times and it remains one of those Cornish hotels where the setting is almost impossible to beat. It is not the cheapest place to stay in Newquay, but if you want somewhere special from which to explore this stretch of coast, it is difficult to imagine a better-positioned base. The Headland Hotel, Newquay FAQ What is there to do in Newquay besides surfing? Newquay has much more to offer than surfing, including its harbour, coastal walks, The Gannel estuary, Fistral Beach, Holywell Bay and the countryside around Kelsey Head and Polly Joke. Where is the best place to walk near Newquay? The coastline around Holywell Bay, Kelsey Head and Polly Joke provides an especially scenic walk close to Newquay, with beaches, dunes, cliffs, wild flowers and ancient coastal fortifications. Is Holywell Bay near Newquay? Yes. Holywell Bay is only a few miles south of Newquay and provides access to a particularly beautiful section of the north Cornwall coast. What is The Gannel in Newquay? The Gannel is the tidal estuary immediately south of Newquay. It is an important natural landscape that has helped prevent the coastal development of the area and provides some of the quieter scenery close to the town. Where is The Headland Hotel in Newquay? The Headland Hotel stands on Towan Headland above Fistral Beach, within walking distance of central Newquay. Its position makes it particularly convenient for exploring the surrounding coast. Is Newquay good for a walking holiday? Yes. Although Newquay is famous for surfing and its beaches, it is also a useful base for exploring the north Cornwall coast, with coastal paths leading towards the harbour, The Gannel, Pentire and the wider coastline. Is Newquay worth visiting? Yes. Beyond its busy summer reputation, Newquay has superb beaches, dramatic coastline, a historic harbour and access to some remarkably unspoilt countryside and coastal walking. Fowey Newquay isn't the only Cornish seaside town that makes a good base for walking. I've also explored the remarkable coastline around Fowey, including the classic circular walk taking in Bodinnick, Pont Pill, Lantic Bay and Polruan. Fowey Hall Walk Circular: one of Cornwall's best coastal walks

The Alverton The Alverton remains one of those hotels I think makes particular sense if you want to explore Cornwall rather than simply stay in one place. And the great advantage of Truro is its position. It isn't a seaside resort and you wouldn't choose the Alverton because you want to step out of the front door and straight onto a coastal path. But that is rather missing the point. Truro sits remarkably centrally in Cornwall, making it a useful base for exploring the county in several directions. From here you can head north to the cliffs and beaches around St Agnes, Porthtowan and Perranporth, or south towards the Roseland Peninsula, the Helford and the Lizard. There are also the creeks and countryside around the Fal and plenty of inland walking. Beach between Porthtowan and Chapel Porth That makes the Alverton particularly attractive to walkers who don't want to spend an entire holiday confined to one small corner of Cornwall. You can walk a different stretch of coast each day, come back to Truro in the evening, find somewhere to eat or simply enjoy the comfort of the hotel. The Alverton itself occupies an impressive hillside setting within Truro, in what was once a convent. The Grade II* listed building dates back to the 19th century and today it is a four-silver-star hotel with 53 bedrooms, gardens, a restaurant and plenty of character. It is also within walking distance of the centre of Truro. That combination appealed to me when I stayed there and still does. On my visit, the Alverton became the starting point for an entirely unplanned adventure. I had gone to Cornwall expecting to spend the day talking to Rick Stein. Instead, I found myself looking out of a sunny hotel window and thinking that it would be a terrible waste not to get outside. So I drove to Porthtowan. And that is how this particular walk came about thanks, oddly, to Rick Stein. After a lot of email to-ing and fro-ing we'd settled on a day when we could have a chat about his friend, TV producer David Pritchard, who had died earlier that year. Having met David some years before, and having been delighted by his wit and endless anecdotes, I wanted to write an article paying tribute to him for the magazine. However, almost at the last minute Rick had a business meeting crop up, and that was that. I had a hotel booked in Cornwall and had arranged another job locally for the day before. So I was down west whether I liked it or not. And I did like it. Because when I awoke, my room at the excellent Alverton Hotel in Truro was bathed in sunlight. So instead of sitting with Mr Stein in some corporate office doing serious journalism, I went for a walk. And, as it turned out, I had rather a good day. Looking down the valley to Chapel Porth From Porthtowan towards Chapel Porth The route I followed was inspired by JRA Hockin's Walking in Cornwall. Writing in the 1930s, Hockin thought it right to remind readers planning their holidays that Cornwall was a county of grim realities as well as great beauty. He advised walkers enjoying the splendours of nature not to ignore the lot of the miners who, in those days, still toiled in places along the north coast. Of the local communities, now largely given over to holiday cottages, he wrote: "In those close-packed streets with their dingy chapels and squalid pubs, and up in those barren, mine-riddled hills with their chimney crests and clusters of wizened cottages, there is a vivid and indispensable human Cornwall..." Hockin was writing in a very different Cornwall. The intervening decades have seen the miners disappear. Evidence of their labours still scars the country around St Agnes and Porthtowan, but the men and their families have gone. Where, I wonder, would Mr Hockin find Cornish Cornwall today? Maybe it's out there among the surfers. SEE OUR SPECIAL CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE Coastal flowers between Porthtowan and Chapel Porth As I looked across Porthtowan beach I could see them riding the wind-whipped waves. They, perhaps, are the new Cornwall. At least, they are out enjoying the best bit of this glorious county, 365 days a year. But in the highlands between Porthtowan and St Agnes you can absorb more of the indescribable essence and spirit otherwise known as Cornishness. The fundamental nature of this county is all about being on the edge. And believe me, you really do know that as you walk the clifftops north of Porthtowan. So, turned down by Mr Stein and his new and very delicious version of Cornwall, that's where I went to experience the full whack of an older landscape. I parked at Porthtowan, admired the great blonde sweep of beach, and set forth towards the mighty eminence of St Agnes Beacon. At once we find ourselves in a clifftop world of savage beauty. Much of this landscape is protected by the National Trust, and that is a good thing. It would have been easy for developers to have covered these old industrial wastelands in unsightly villas, but places such as this have a severe form of beauty which is well worth saving. Not to mention their historic significance. Coast path between Porthtowan and Chapel Porth A coast shaped by mining The National Trust still manages a network of paths around Chapel Porth, Wheal Charlotte and the surrounding heathland, and the evidence of the old mining industry remains everywhere. Engine houses, shafts, spoil heaps and other remains sit among the heather and gorse. The Trust has information on the Great Wheal Charlotte, Charlotte United and the famous Wheal Coates mines. But you don't need to be a mining historian to appreciate this landscape. The strange thing is that the industrial scars have become part of the beauty. The old mine workings tell you that this apparently wild coast was once a place of hard labour. The sea, the cliffs and the heathland may look timeless, but generations of Cornish men and women lived and worked here. And that is what Hockin was trying to tell his readers. Chapel Porth You can, depending on the tide, walk along the beach towards Chapel Porth, but I would take the coast path. From above, you can see just how easily a walker could get caught out by a rising tide. The views are better from the cliffs anyway. The beach at Chapel Porth The path brings you towards Mulgram Hill, from where there is a spectacular view down the deep, steep groove that runs north-west out of the hills to reach the sea at Chapel Porth. Hockin described Chapel Porth as the deepest and most beautiful of the local beaches. Happily, not everything has changed. The beach remains one of those wonderfully enclosed Cornish places where the cliffs seem to close around the sea. Today there is a café rather than the rather forlorn little refreshment shed of Hockin's description, but the essential character of the place survives. At Mulgram Hill there is a choice. You can descend towards Chapel Porth and then climb again towards St Agnes Beacon, or head inland across the heath towards Great Wheal Charlotte. I took the latter option. Se our post on St Anthony Head, Roseland Peninsula – one of Cornwall's great coastal walks Cornish Walks: Around St Anthony Head, Cornwall Among the old mine workings Along the way I encountered a yellowish area devoid of vegetation. The lack of growth is due to the mineral-rich waste left behind by the old mining industry. Even today the ground can look strangely barren in places. I remember being told that at the right time of year you stood a good chance of seeing lizards sunning themselves on the bare mounds. The beach at Porthtowan with lifeguards The landscape here is a strange mixture of wilderness and industrial archaeology. There are great sweeps of heath, but underneath and around them lie the remains of shafts and workings. The National Trust warns walkers to keep to the paths because the area is pitted with mine shafts, while some sections are narrow, rocky and steep. That is worth remembering if you follow this route today. My old description of the walk as "easy going" was perhaps a little too casual. It is not a mountain expedition, but neither is it a stroll around a park. Back towards Porthtowan A stiff breeze was getting up so I hurried along the track to Towan Cross, where I turned right, walked along the road for a little way, then right again along the track which took me down past Towan Farm. The route zig-zagged down past a bungalow estate and eventually connected with the right-of-way leading back towards the large car park at Porthtowan. And there I sat, writing these words, watching the modern Cornish folk performing stunts on the wind-whipped waves. Chapel Porth and mines on a murky Cornish day I was still slightly sad to have been turned down by the celebrity chef. But I was very happy indeed to have enjoyed the hike. And perhaps I had discovered something better. Instead of spending a couple of hours discussing the modern celebrity version of Cornwall with Rick Stein, I'd spent a day walking through the old one. Stay at the Alverton and explore this part of Cornwall This is one of the reasons I still think the Alverton makes such a good base for a Cornish break. You don't have to stay beside the sea to enjoy Cornwall's coast. Truro puts you in a useful central position, with the city itself on the doorstep and places such as St Agnes, Porthtowan and Chapel Porth within reach by car. And when you come back from a windy coastal walk, there is something rather nice about returning to a comfortable historic hotel rather than a windswept holiday cottage. The Alverton has changed since my stay, of course, but its essential appeal remains: an atmospheric old building, gardens, comfortable rooms and a location from which you can explore rather than simply admire Cornwall from the hotel window. The hotel now has 53 bedrooms, with accommodation spread between the main house and courtyard, and its restaurant currently holds two AA rosettes. So this is not simply a recommendation for somewhere to sleep. It is a recommendation for a base. Stay in Truro. Have breakfast at the Alverton. Go walking on the north coast. Explore St Agnes, Porthtowan, Chapel Porth and the old mining landscape. Then come back to the hotel, get cleaned up and have dinner. That, to me, is a pretty good way of doing Cornwall. For a walk closer to Truro see the Malpas to St Clement – Southern Cornwall Cornish Walks: Malpas-St Clement in Southern Cornwall River views at Malpas near Truro The Porthtowan walk: what you need to know Starting point: Porthtowan Route: Porthtowan – coast path towards Chapel Porth – inland across the mining landscape – Towan Cross – Towan Farm – Porthtowan. Distance: My original route was approximately three miles, although anyone following the surrounding National Trust routes today should check the precise route before setting out. Terrain: Coastal path, heathland tracks and some road walking. Expect uneven and rocky ground, climbs and descents. Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 104. Dogs: Dogs are welcome on the National Trust paths around Chapel Porth but should be kept under close control. Important: Keep to marked paths around the old mine workings. There are mine shafts and dangerous cliff edges in this landscape, and the National Trust specifically warns about unstable cliffs and rock falls. Tides: If you are tempted to use the beach as part of the route, check the tide carefully. My advice remains the same as it was when I first wrote this: if in doubt, stay on the coast path. The Alverton, Truro

Winter evening view from my room at the St Enodoc Hotel, Rock, St Enodoc Hotel in Rock is one of the finest places to stay for exploring the Camel Estuary, St Enodoc Church, Polzeath and this wonderfully varied five-mile walk. Yes, I know, this is a terrible job, but someone's got to do it. After eating all the delicious and healthy food to review Cornwall's wonderful deli copany, Sabzi, we went on to stay at the St Enodoc Hotel in Rock. Our only regret was that it was just for one night. We could happily have stayed longer. What was there not to like? An elegant hotel sitting in lovely gardens above one of the most scenic estuaries in the country, right in the middle of Rock – otherwise known as something of a millionaire's playground. Our beautifully appointed room enjoyed panoramic views over the Camel Estuary, which is one of the few tidal zones I know that looks just as good when the tide is out as when it's in. No great expanses of mud between Rock and Padstow – it's mostly golden sand. It was a wonderful place in which to be based, because Rock is rich in scenic walks and doubly so if you catch the regular foot ferry across the Camel to Padstow. Looking across from Rock to Padstow And there was another very good reason for staying at the St Enodoc: food. The hotel has long had a reputation for good cooking, making it the sort of place where you can set off on a long walk knowing there will be something rather enjoyable waiting for you when you get back. But there is a particularly good walk from the hotel – or, more accurately, from the ferry landing nearby – which takes you to one of the most evocative little churches in Cornwall. And that church has one particularly famous resident. All things draw toward St Enodoc "All things draw toward St Enedoc." So said Sir John Betjeman, and who am I to disagree - even if it is spelled in two different ways, with an 'e' or an 'o'... St Enodoc Church, John Betjeman's final resting place For years I had been drawn to the idea of visiting the little church in the dunes with the intention of doffing my cap to the old poet who lies there in the sand. So recently, map in hand, I set sail upon the high seas to enjoy a pilgrimage to Sir John's grave. Oh all right, it was the Camel Estuary and I was aboard the ferry from Padstow to Rock, but somehow a hike that begins with a boat ride always seems to have an extra edge of adventure to it. Indeed, this walk has an added bonus in the way of edge and danger, which requires the nimble dodging of small, round, white missiles – but we'll get to that later. First we must allow the ferry to land at Rock and, while it does so, we can admire the St Minver Lowlands. It's the curiously named parish which is to be our stomping ground for the next two hours and from the ferry you can see its estuarine frontage which presents itself in the form of huge sand dunes. CHECK OUT OUR REVIEW OF ANOTHER HOTEL NEARBY - THE WONDERFUL ST MORITZ Looking across St Minver Lowlands to Daymer Bay Why is Rock called Rock? So why Rock? What an odd name for a village built upon sand. I looked up the place in J.R.A. Hockin's Walking in Cornwall – which, if you can find a copy, I heartily recommend – and could find nothing in his fine prose to explain the name. Hockin prefers to witter on at length about the strange fact that Cornwall's estuary harbours tend to be on the west banks of their rivers. Fowey, Falmouth and Padstow are his examples and then he goes on at some length about the Romans, long-lost roads and the early tin trade. He suggests – at least he did so in 1936 – that you ponder all this at the inn at Rock, describing it thus: St Enedoc Church and graveyard "Though its company is mostly of the cocktail class it is not in the least proud..." The cocktail crowd is still there. Indeed, Rock exudes an air of wealth. I even saw a middle-aged woman whisking silently along on one of those scooters much beloved by kids nowadays – except this thing was powered by a powerful electric motor. I must say, she cut quite a dash weaving between the humble tourists who had disembarked from the ferry. And you know you are somewhere posh when you pass the gates of the golf club. For that is what you must do to begin this hike: walk about 500 yards along the road to the right of the ferry landing, then turn left up the lane that leads to the links. SEE OUR CORNWALL WALKS PAGE BY CLICKING HERE Halfway up Daymer Hill above the golf course Beware the golfers A small path slinks through a hedge just to the left of the golf club gates but, before you join it, peer into the car park and witness a unique instruction painted on the tarmac. "Saloon Cars Only," says the missive repeated in various parking bays. But why? Are sports cars, shooting brakes and coupes unwelcome in these spots? This question irked me all around the walk and eventually I could only come up with the conclusion that Rock is so posh that many golfers turn up in giant limousines that will not fit into the saloon-cars-only slots. I say the path slinks through the hedge because you get the impression that this public right of way is there by historic merit and by sufferance. Golfers and walkers do not mix well – and at Rock the two are thrown together with the potential for alarming and painful outcomes. Looking out to see from Daymer Hill For the walkers, that is. They do not hurl missiles about the place. Golfers do. The ball that just missed me came hissing out of the sky like an Exocet. Look at the Ordnance Survey map and you will see that the footpath passes right through the very heart of this glorious links course. Signs regularly tell you that balls are likely to be driven this way and that, but you need eyes in the back of your head to remain out of harm's way.Or a crash helmet. "Fore!" yelled a fellow adorned in vibrantly chequered trousers. What on earth did he mean? The fear of the firing range goes on all the way across to noble Brea Hill where I hoped the danger would cease. But it didn't. The path swung inland of this grassy dome – and the golfers did too. Swing being the operative word. Those great clubs make a rather threatening sound as they whiz down to make contact with the small spherical missile. I put my hardback copy of Hockin over my head and made a bolt for it towards St Enodoc. St Enodoc Church and Sir John Betjeman And what a refuge it was. No wonder old Betjeman loved this place. The little church of St Enodoc sits remarkably among the dunes, half swallowed by the sand and surrounded by the landscape that inspired the poet. John Betjeman's gravestone at St Enedoc His ornately carved headstone can be seen just inside the lych gate, but the best view is from the wall at the top of the graveyard where you are treated to a vista of church, hill, dune, wood and sea. "Blessed be St Enodoc, blessed be the wave, Blessed be the springy turf, we pray, pray to thee...." So wrote Betjeman in his poem Trebetherick, which is where we're going next. It's a village on the slight hill to the north of the old church and, to get to it, you can take any number of public footpaths which are to be found in the area. Go up any of the north-leading paths and, on the road just past the Post Office, a footpath branches right down into the leafy valley near Shilla Mill. "The lichened branches of a wood In summer silver-cool and still; And there the Shade of Evil could Stretch out at us from Shilla Mill." Know what you mean, John. There is something creepy about the valley. But I'd just read Trebetherick, so maybe the poem influenced my mood. The wonderful beach at Polzeath From Shilla Mill to Polzeath Anyway, this footpath brings us to the sea at Polzeath – which is nowhere near as posh as Rock and is a jolly surfing sort of place full of wetsuited folk romping to and fro from the icy waves. Turn left and we find this column's best friend – the South West Coast Path. It takes us south past Broadagogue Cove, around Trebetherick Point to Daymer Bay. If the tide is out you can cut across the sands and think of the bell that rings so forlornly in St Enodoc's small tower. It came from the Italian vessel Immacolata, which was wrecked here in 1875 but, strangely perhaps, is inscribed "Sahel". On we go around the coastal slopes of Brea Hill and along the low dunes to the ferry landing where I, for one, felt pleased as punch that at last I had been drawn toward St Enodoc. Polzeath on a sunny winter's day St Enodoc Hotel: a new chapter There is now another reason to return. When I stayed at the St Enodoc, it was already one of those hotels that seemed to have got the important things right: a beautiful position, views across the Camel, gardens, comfortable rooms and an excellent base for exploring Rock, Daymer Bay, Polzeath and Padstow. St Enedoc Hotel, above its steps in rock But the hotel has since entered a completely new chapter. Paul and Emma Ainsworth, whose hospitality businesses include the Michelin-starred Paul Ainsworth at No6 in Padstow, acquired the 21-bedroom hotel in January 2025. After an 18-month transformation, it reopened on 27 July 2026 as St Enodoc by Paul Ainsworth. Emma Ainsworth has overseen the redesign with interior designer Eve Cullen-Cornes, while Paul has brought his food and hospitality expertise to the hotel. The new St Enodoc is intended to be more than somewhere to sleep after a day walking the coast. The centrepiece of the new food offering is the Estuary Grill, concentrating on Cornish meat, fish and seafood cooked over an asado grill, with dishes also reflecting Paul's Seychellois heritage. There is also the seasonal Flour Garden, an informal, family-friendly outdoor restaurant serving pizzas and salads, while the St Enodoc Bar provides another place to sit, drink and admire the surroundings. There are new spaces for weddings, celebrations and other events, including the Oyster Salon and Porthilly Pavilion. The rooms have also been refreshed, with the hotel retaining its particular attraction: many look towards the estuary or gardens, and the location puts the ferry to Padstow and a remarkable collection of coastal walks almost on the doorstep. So, although my own stay belongs to the St Enodoc's earlier incarnation, the essential attraction remains unchanged. You are in Rock, overlooking the Camel Estuary. You can walk to St Enodoc church and Sir John Betjeman's grave. You can follow the coast path to Polzeath and Daymer Bay. You can catch the ferry to Padstow. And, after all that, you can return to a very good hotel and let somebody else worry about the cooking. That sounds to me like a pretty good reason to go back. The Rock-Padstow Ferry - empty in winter Fact File: Rock, St Enodoc and the Betjeman Walk Walk: Rock ferry landing – St Enodoc Golf Club – St Enodoc Church – Trebetherick – Shilla Mill – Polzeath – South West Coast Path – Daymer Bay – Rock. Distance: Approximately five miles. Going: Generally easy, although there are some paths and sandy sections. Take particular care on the section crossing St Enodoc Golf Club. Warning: Golf balls can be hit towards the footpath. Pay attention to warning signs and listen for calls of "Fore!" Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 106 – Newquay and Padstow. Where to stay: St Enodoc by Paul Ainsworth, Rock – a 21-bedroom hotel overlooking the Camel Estuary, relaunched in July 2026 following its acquisition by Paul and Emma Ainsworth. Nearby: Padstow, Daymer Bay, Polzeath, Trebetherick, Rock and the Camel Estuary. Best feature: The combination of the ferry, the dunes, St Enodoc church, Betjeman's grave and the South West Coast Path makes this a walk with considerably more character than its five miles might suggest. FIND PLACES TO STAY NEAR ROCK Walking across the sands to Rock from the Padstow ferry in winter

Like many people who have certain types of job, you don’t half belt about a lot as a roving feature writer. Which can be tiring. But occasionally you get lucky and can stay in a very nice hotel. And for the second time in a couple of years I was fortunate enough to be staying at the St Moritz, near Rock in Cornwall, where the only real hardship is trying to decide which way to walk along the wondrous coast path. St Moritz Hotel, near Rock, North Cornwall I didn’t even have that problem this time because the previous year I had turned right and written about a hike out towards Pentire Point. This time I turned left. And that meant heading up the Camel Estuary towards Rock, St Enedoc and the St Minver Lowlands. The St Moritz is in Trebetherick, between Polzeath and Daymer Bay, and its location is one of the great attractions of the place. The South West Coast Path runs along the shore just down the hill from the hotel, with paths leading towards some of the finest walking country on this stretch of the north Cornish coast. Looking across the Camel Estuary and Doom Bar from the St Moritz And these days the hotel has considerably more to offer than it did when I first stayed. There is the Cowshed Spa and its extensive wellness facilities, indoor and heated outdoor swimming pools, a gym, studio and tennis courts, as well as hotel rooms, suites and self-catering accommodation. So you could quite easily come here with the intention of exploring Cornwall and end up barely leaving the place. That, of course, is another form of hardship. A walk from the St Moritz to Rock There’s a connecting path down from the hotel to the coast path and I can never walk it without recalling a story that a receptionist at the St Moritz once told me about David Cameron, who was Prime Minister at the time. She said that a couple of years earlier he had been holidaying in one of the houses just underneath the hotel and that one day he turned up in reception in his shorts, asking if he could borrow a couple of tennis balls. I don’t really know why this story should be in the least bit memorable, unless it’s the idea of a Prime Minister in shorts or the idea that he had to go on the scrounge rather than leave it to some minion. Looking across the mouth of the Camel Estuary from the St Moritz Anyway, by turning left along the coast path you weave about a bit above the low cliffs and tiny beaches before eventually reaching Daymer Bay. The tide was out the evening I was there, so I simply set off along the great wide open sands towards distant Rock, thereby skirting the heights of strange and wonderful Brea Hill. Why is it called Rock? What an odd name for a village built upon sand. I looked up the place in J.R.A. Hockin's Walking in Cornwall and could find nothing to explain the name. Instead, he preferred to write about the strange fact that Cornwall’s estuary harbours tend to be on the west banks of their rivers. Fowey, Falmouth and Padstow were his examples. Then he went on about the Romans, long-lost roads and the early tin trade. He suggested — at least he did in 1936 — that you consider all this while sitting inside the inn at Rock, describing it thus: Daymer Bay and Rock Golf Course with St Enedoc Church “Though its company is mostly of the cocktail class it is not in the least proud, and it puts up, at midday, a remarkably good pasty which you can eat on the veranda with a picture-postcard view of Padstow.” Things have changed since Hockin wrote that. The Mariners at Rock is now a much more sophisticated affair, but the cocktail crowd is still there because, of course, Rock still exudes an air of wealth all these years later. And you know you are somewhere posh when you pass the grand gates of a golf club. Across Rock and towards St Enedoc For that is what we must do to begin this walk. Stroll along the road from the ferry landing-place and turn left up the lane that leads towards the links. St Enedoc Church A small path slinks through a hedge just to the left of the golf club gates. I say the path “slinks” because you get the impression that this public right of way is there by historic merit and by sufferance. Golfers and walkers do not always mix well — and at Rock the two are thrown together with the potential for alarming and painful outcomes. For the walkers, that is. The fear of the firing range goes on all the way across towards noble Brea Hill, where the path swings inland of this grassy dome. I was determined to climb the eminence, but not before I had made a quick detour to see old John Betjeman in his grave at nearby St Enedoc Church. John Betjeman and St Enedoc No wonder the poet loved this place. His ornately carved headstone can be seen just inside the lych gate, but the best view is from the wall at the top of the graveyard where you are treated to a vista of church, hill, dune, wood and sea. Betjeman wrote affectionately about this strange and beautiful corner of Cornwall. In his poem Trebetherick he wrote: “Blessed be St Enodoc, blessed be the wave…” Dunes lead down into Daymer Bay And it is difficult to stand here and disagree with him. The church itself is one of those wonderfully Cornish buildings that seems to have fought a long battle with the landscape. Sand gradually engulfed it over the centuries and at one stage only the tower remained visible above the dunes. Today it sits in the middle of the golf course, surrounded by the extraordinary landscape that so fascinated Betjeman. From St Enedoc I headed towards Trebetherick, the village on the slight hill to the north of the old church. There are any number of public footpaths in this area and you can wander around without necessarily following a single obvious route. Go up any of the paths leading north and, on the road just past the Post Office, a footpath branches right down into the leafy valley near Shilla Mill. The strange valley at Shilla Mill “The lichened branches of a woodIn summer silver-cool and still;And there the Shade of Evil couldStretch out at us from Shilla Mill.” There is something creepy about the valley. But I’d just been reading Trebetherick, so perhaps the poem had influenced my mood. Anyway, this footpath eventually brings you to the sea at Polzeath — which didn’t used to be anywhere near as posh as Rock but has been rapidly catching up. And from Polzeath you can turn left on the coast path and stroll above Broadagogue Cove along what is known as The Greenway. Soon enough, you are heading back towards the St Moritz. Back to the St Moritz As I walked I swear I could hear the ringing of the bell in St Enedoc's small, bent tower. It came from the Italian vessel Immacolata, wrecked here in 1875 but, strangely perhaps, inscribed “Sahel”. Somehow it cut through the opulence and classiness of this corner of Cornwall and reminded me that once, not that long ago, the place could be a savage and perilous one. That contrast is one of the things I like most about this part of Cornwall. There are expensive houses, smart hotels, golf courses, fashionable restaurants and the rather splendid world of Rock. But just beyond them are the beaches, cliffs, dunes, estuary and coast path — a landscape which can still feel wild. And that is what makes the St Moritz such an appealing place to stay. You can have the comfort and facilities of a modern coastal hotel, including the Cowshed Spa and its new wellness facilities, but within minutes you can be walking beside the Camel Estuary or across the sands of Daymer Bay. The hotel itself has evolved considerably since my earlier visits, with its emphasis now very much on combining accommodation, food, wellbeing and the outdoors. The Cowshed Spa has been expanded into a substantial wellness space with sauna, steam room, experience showers, ice fountain and a heated indoor pool, while there is also an outdoor pool, gym, studio and sea-view tennis court. There is also a range of self-catering accommodation for families and groups, alongside the hotel rooms and suites. In other words, the St Moritz has become rather more than simply somewhere to put your head down after a day walking. But I think the walking remains the real attraction. Because when you wake up at the St Moritz, you have to make a decision. Do you turn right towards Pentire Point? Or do you turn left towards Daymer Bay, Rock and St Enedoc? Having tried both, I’m still not sure which is best. Perhaps the only sensible solution is to stay for another night. Where is the St Moritz Hotel? The St Moritz Hotel is at Trebetherick, near Polzeath and Rock on the north coast of Cornwall. It is particularly well placed for exploring Daymer Bay, the Camel Estuary, Rock, Polzeath and the South West Coast Path. The hotel describes itself as being between Polzeath and Daymer Bay, with three of Cornwall’s best-known beaches — Polzeath, Daymer Bay and Rock — close by. For walkers, that location is the real selling point. For anyone who wants to combine walking with a little pampering, the Cowshed Spa makes the proposition even stronger. Daymer Bay at low tide My verdict I have stayed at the St Moritz more than once, which probably tells you something. It is not simply the sort of place where you go for a bed and breakfast before heading off somewhere else. The location encourages you to stay put for a while. Walk the coast path. Go down to Daymer Bay. Wander around Rock and St Enedoc. Swim. Have a treatment. Sit down for something to eat. Then perhaps do it all again the next day. And if you are looking for a particularly good base for exploring this extraordinary corner of North Cornwall, it is difficult to think of many better placed hotels. St Moritz Hotel, Trebetherick, near Rock and Polzeath, Cornwall. St Moritz Hotel Cornwall: Fact File Where is the St Moritz Hotel? The St Moritz Hotel is at Trebetherick, between Rock and Polzeath on the north Cornwall coast. Its address is St Moritz Court, Trebetherick, Wadebridge, Cornwall PL27 6SD. What is the hotel like? The St Moritz describes itself as a family and spa hotel offering a combination of hotel rooms, suites and self-catering accommodation. It has developed considerably over the years and is now as much a wellness and leisure destination as a place to stay. What accommodation is available? As well as hotel rooms and suites, there is a large collection of self-catering apartments, houses and villas. Some of the larger apartments have balconies or terraces with views across the Camel Estuary and towards the sea. Does the St Moritz have a spa? Yes. The Cowshed Spa is one of the hotel's major attractions and is unusual in being the only Cowshed Spa outside the Soho House group. The recently developed wellness area includes a steam room, high-heat and Nordic saunas, experience showers, an ice fountain and a heated indoor pool with a swim-out hydro pool. What swimming pools does the hotel have? There is a heated indoor pool and a heated outdoor pool, with the latter including a smaller children's pool. The outdoor pool is situated beside the Seaside Café and leisure lawn. What other leisure facilities are there? The hotel has a modern gym, studio space for fitness and wellbeing classes, a sea-view tennis court and various outdoor activities. Tennis courts are available to guests, while rackets and balls can be hired from reception. Is the St Moritz good for families? Yes. The hotel specifically promotes itself as a family-friendly destination, and the combination of swimming pools, outdoor activities, self-catering accommodation and proximity to the beaches makes it particularly suitable for family holidays. Is the St Moritz good for walkers? Very much so. This is one of its greatest advantages. The South West Coast Path is within easy walking distance, with Daymer Bay, Rock, Polzeath and St Enedoc all accessible on foot. The hotel therefore makes an excellent base for exploring this part of the north Cornish coast. Which beaches are near the St Moritz? Polzeath and Daymer Bay are particularly close, while Rock is also within easy reach. The Camel Estuary, with the ferry across to Padstow, is another major attraction. Can you walk from the St Moritz to Rock? Yes. There are coastal and inland walking routes linking the hotel with Rock. The walk takes you through some of the finest scenery around Daymer Bay and the Camel Estuary. Does the hotel have restaurants? Yes. The St Moritz currently has on-site dining including its main restaurant/brasserie operation and café facilities. The hotel also promotes its Cowshed Café for lighter food and refreshments. Is there a shuttle service? Yes. The hotel operates a bookable e-shuttle to local areas, including Rock, making it possible to explore the area without always having to take the car. Is the St Moritz suitable for a spa break? Absolutely. The expanded Cowshed Spa and wellness facilities make it possible to combine coastal walking and beach time with swimming, sauna, steam room, treatments and other wellbeing activities. Can you stay at the St Moritz without booking a hotel room? Yes. The self-catering operation includes houses and apartments of different sizes, making it an option for families and groups as well as couples looking for a more traditional hotel stay. Why do I recommend the St Moritz? I've stayed there more than once, and for me the location is the great attraction. You have the comfort and facilities of a substantial hotel, including the Cowshed Spa, but you are also within easy reach of the South West Coast Path, Daymer Bay, Rock, Polzeath and St Enedoc. It is a particularly good choice if you want a North Cornwall stay that combines walking, beaches, food and a little luxury. Padstow lifeboat in the Camel Estuary

Upstairs interior of Pendeenah, a luxury holiday home in Polzeath, Cornwall There’ll be plenty of people reading this who live in older houses - which, in the mainly rural South West, might well mean homes with thick walls, smaller windows, and so on. Before modern wonders like double glazing and thermal insulation came along, dwelling spaces had to keep folk warm and dry any way they could, which basically meant shutting out the great outdoors. What the builders of yesteryear swapped to gain cosiness, however, was light. Especially in the depths of winter. I live in such a place. The downstairs interior of our old cottage does a good job of pretending to be a cave. So imagine how delighted my wife and I were to spend a few days in Pendeenah, a remarkably modern holiday house in Polzeath, where the upper half of the building seemed to have been designed specifically to catch the winter light and make the most of the extraordinary Cornish coastline. Pendeenah: a different kind of holiday house in Polzeath Pendeenah is an upside-down house - and once you've seen it, the idea makes perfect sense. Why put the bedrooms upstairs, where you spend much of your time asleep, when you could put the living areas up there instead and give them the best possible views? So that's what has happened here. The bedrooms and bathrooms are downstairs while the kitchen, dining and living spaces occupy the upper part of the house. The result is a wonderfully light interior, with large windows looking towards the coast. And Pendeenah does this better than any other house I have stayed in. The property sleeps 11, has five bedrooms and four bathrooms making it particularly suitable for families or groups wanting to share a luxury holiday house on the North Cornwall coast. It also has direct gated access to the South West Coast Path and Polzeath beach is within easy reach. The design is clever, but it doesn't sacrifice comfort for cleverness. There are walk-in showers, a huge Victorian-style bath, a superb kitchen and plenty of space for people to spread out. There's also a snug for children and a large terrace where, in better weather, the view must be even more spectacular than it was during our winter stay. This is the sort of place where the accommodation itself becomes part of the holiday. A luxury self-catering stay on the North Cornwall coast Pendeenah is part of the Latitude50 collection of holiday properties, a locally based company specialising in high-quality self-catering accommodation around Polzeath, Rock, Daymer Bay and Port Isaac. The company has been concentrating on this relatively small stretch of North Cornwall for decades, which is one of the things I like about its approach. This isn't a giant holiday business offering cottages scattered all over Britain. It is focused on one particularly beautiful corner of the Cornish coast. And there is plenty of choice. Planning a stay in Polzeath? If Pendeenah isn't available for your dates, there are plenty of other hotels, holiday cottages and self-catering properties around Polzeath and the wider North Cornwall coast. You can compare accommodation and prices below. Latitude50's present collection includes everything from smaller coastal properties to substantial houses designed for families and groups, with Polzeath, Rock, Daymer Bay and Port Isaac forming the heart of its North Cornwall portfolio. Pendeenah is towards the luxurious end of that spectrum - but sharing a large holiday house can make this kind of accommodation rather more attainable than the word "luxury" might suggest. It is certainly a different proposition from booking a conventional hotel room. You have the space of a house, the freedom to cook when you want, several living areas and, most importantly in a place like Polzeath, the feeling that the coast is right outside the door. Bathers take to the waves in Polzeath, North Cornwall What to do in Polzeath in winter So much for the house. But what do you actually do in Polzeath in the middle of winter? The answer is surprisingly simple. You walk. The area is rich in fabulous coastal paths and, for me, one of the finest walks starts from Polzeath and heads around Pentire Point and The Rumps. Pentire Point is the massive headland which guards the mouth of the River Camel, and from Pendeenah you can look towards this dramatic piece of coastline. With its easterly neighbour, The Rumps, the two-pronged promontory makes an ideal area for coastal walking because it lends itself to a perfectly sensible circular hike - something that isn't always easy to find beside the sea. From the lofty tip of Pentire Point you get spectacular elevated views of the Camel and Padstow Bay. Between Pentire and Stepper Point on the other side of the estuary there is naught but current, turbulence and waves - and these three merry maidens like nothing better than creating the watery hell of the infamous Doom Bar. Just about all the walk is on National Trust land. And thank God for that. SEE OUR SPECIAL PLACES TO STAY POST ABOUT THE LIZARD AND SOUTH CORNWALL Expensive beach properties at Polzeath In 1936 the entire headland was divided into building plots and put up for sale. Protestors organised themselves at both local and national level and eventually raised enough money to buy the estate and give it to the nation. When you know that story and walk across the headland today, you almost feel like weeping with gratitude. The Rumps, Lawrence Binyon and a remarkable piece of Cornish history You might also feel like shedding a tear when you see the memorial to Lawrence Binyon up on the headland. The plaque marks the place where he wrote For The Fallen - the poem containing the famous words about those who "shall not grow old". The memorial has a wonderful setting, with The Rumps forming the backdrop. The people of the Iron Age also recognised the defensive potential of this peninsula and built a great fort, complete with ramparts and ditches, some of which can still be seen. It is one of those places where the scenery is impressive enough without any history being added to it - but knowing what happened here makes the walk even more rewarding. View of The Rumps from Pentire Head A walk to the beach - and an unexpected meeting On our own walk we eventually headed east along the cliff edge, past Com Head, before taking tracks down towards the beach. The tide was out, which proved rather fortunate because it allowed me to meet one of the more unusual characters I have encountered on a Cornish beach. Bill Bartlett is a Polzeath historian and "Jungian Beach Artist" who creates intricate and ephemeral beach mandalas on a vast scale. Bill Bartlett, beach artist, Polzeath He happened to be working on one of his designs as we finished our walk, so I stopped for what turned out to be a fascinating chat. His creations are made to be temporary. The tide comes in and wipes them away. Indeed, the design I saw that morning had disappeared within about half an hour. There is something particularly appropriate about that in Cornwall: a huge work of art created on the beach, admired for a few minutes and then returned to the sea. Looking south from The Rumps, North Cornwall From Polzeath to Padstow Another day we walked along the estuary towards the Rock ferry and crossed over to Padstow for lunch. This is another great advantage of staying in this part of North Cornwall. You can make the holiday as active or as lazy as you like. Follow the South West Coast Path towards Rock when the tide is in, or, when conditions allow, make use of the wide sands around Daymer Bay. There is also the chance to make a small detour to St Enodoc Church at Trebetherick, where John Betjeman is buried beneath the churchyard turf. And then there is Padstow. I found it much more digestible in January than in July or August, when the crowds can make the place feel rather different. In winter there is time to wander, find a table and actually look at the harbour rather than spending your time dodging other visitors. That, for me, is one of the great pleasures of a winter stay in North Cornwall. SEE OUR POST ABOUT GREAT PLACES TO STAY IN WEST CORNWALL Padstow from across the Camel estuary Why stay in Polzeath? Polzeath is obviously a very different proposition in summer, when the beach is busy and the area becomes one of North Cornwall's most popular holiday destinations. But winter reveals another side of it. The beach is still there. The coast path is still there. The cliffs, headlands and Atlantic surf are still there. And if the weather turns rough, you have the rather good option of retreating to somewhere like Pendeenah, sitting in a comfortable chair in that remarkable upper living space and watching the weather move across the sea. A winter storm outside a house with huge windows and a good heating system can be rather more enjoyable than a winter storm when you're standing underneath it. That is perhaps the great attraction of a place like Pendeenah. It isn't simply somewhere to sleep while you explore Cornwall. The house, the views, the coast and the landscape all become part of the experience. SEE OUR SPECIAL CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE Flemish style beach house at Polzeath Pendeenah and places to stay in North Cornwall For anyone looking for a luxury self-catering holiday in Polzeath, Pendeenah is an impressive option - particularly for larger families or groups who want plenty of space and easy access to the beach and South West Coast Path. Latitude50 now has a substantial collection of properties across Polzeath and the neighbouring communities of Rock, Daymer Bay and Port Isaac, so Pendeenah is just one possibility for anyone planning a North Cornwall coastal escape. For me, though, what made Pendeenah memorable was not simply the luxury. It was that extraordinary sensation of light. After years of living in a Westcountry cottage that can occasionally resemble a cave, spending a few winter days in a house designed to pull the landscape and daylight indoors was quite an experience. And when the sea is pounding the cliffs outside, there's something rather wonderful about being able to enjoy the drama from the warmth and comfort of your own holiday home. Looking south across the Doom Bar from Polzeath Exploring Polzeath: Coastal Walks and Scenic Views So much for the house, but what do you do in a place like Polzeath in the middle of winter? You probably don’t need me to tell you the area is rich in fabulous walks, the very best of these being the amazing hike around Pentire Point and The Rumps… Coastal Hiking at Pentire Point and The Rumps Pentire Point is the massive headland which guards the mouth of the River Camel - and which you can view from the windows of Pendeenah. With its easterly neighbour, The Rumps, this two-pronged promontory makes an ideal area for coastal walking because it lends itself to a perfectly sensible circular hike, which is rare by the seaside. From the lofty tip of Pentire Point you are treated to spectacular elevated views of the seaborne Camel and Padstow Bay. Between Pentire and Stepper Point on the other side of the estuary, there is naught but current, turbulence and waves and these three merry maidens like nothing better than to create the watery hell of the infamous Doom Bar. The golf course at Rock from across the Camel Estuary Just about all the walk is on National Trust land. The organisation owns large stretches of coastal Cornwall. Thank God because, in 1936, the entire headland was divided into building plots and up for sale. Some people, though, couldn’t bear the idea of one of Cornwall’s most handsome headlands being covered with bungalows - protestors organised themselves at both local and national level and raised enough money to buy the entire estate and give it to the nation. When you know this story and walk the walk, you almost feel like weeping with gratitude. Historical Reflections: Lawrence Binyon and Iron Age Forts You might also feel like shedding a tear when you see the memorial to Lawrence Binyon up at the top of the headland. The plaque is there to mark the place where he wrote For The Fallen (“They shall not grow old, as we that are left to grow old…”) - a poem that has sunk deep into the nation’s consciousness and recited at every Remembrance Day event. Read the words on the plaque and you’ll also admire the backdrop of The Rumps, a sort of twin headland located a mile north-east of Pentire. The people of the Iron Age recognised this peninsula’s excellent defensive potential and built a great fort with all sorts of ramparts and ditches, some of which can still be seen. VISIT OUR SPECIAL SOUTH WEST COAST PATH PAGE A Serendipitous Encounter: Beach Art and Local History Having explored the area and admired the neighbouring rocky, conical island called The Mouls, we rejoined the coast path to head east along the cliff edge - past Com Head - to a junction of tracks above Pengirt Cove. From there a turn to the right took us down through the fields past the National Trust farm, to the beach thanks, which we were able to access direct from the coast path thanks to the fact the tide was out. Which is relevent because the low tide allowed me to meet a most remarkable man. Bill Bartlett is a Polzeath historian and a “Jungian Beach Artist” who creates intricate and ephemeral beach mandalas on a vast scale. He happened to be working on one of his intricate designs as we finished our walk, so I stopped for what turned out to be a pleasant and interesting chat. A website (www.jungbythesea.co.uk) explains that the… “immersive approach to beach art involves the practice of drawing within the coastal landscape, working with the tide, light and weather.” Bill has a particular interest in the potential of beach-art to unlock personal insights and enhance self-awareness… “I believe there’s immense value in exploring the unconscious mind through the simple act of drawing on the beach.” I found it all fascinating and was certainly impressed by the design Bill had created that morning - a beautiful motif that was about to be eaten up by the incoming tide. Which is just about as ephemeral as it gets - the whole lot was gone in half-hour - but you can see examples of his work on Instagram - search for billys_beachart. A Day Trip to Padstow: Exploring the Local Area On another day last week, we walked up the estuary to the Rock ferry, which took us across to Padstow for a spot of lunch. This is a lovely gentle hike which you can do by following the South West Coast Path (located just 100 metres from Pendeenah) all the way to Rock if the tide is in, or by walking across the wide acres of sand direct from Daymer Bay if it’s out. The advantage of the former is that you can make a small detour to see John Betjeman’s grave at St. Enodoc Church, just up at Trebetherick, tucked under the golf course. The advantage of the low tide route is that it’s a lot shorter and you don’t have to worry about flying golf balls. I found Padstow much more digestible in January than, say, July or August when you can barely move in the place. Last week only a handful of visitors were milling around and some of the eateries were staging amazing value mid-winter luncheon offers (£26 for three-courses anyone?). Midwinter Breaks in Cornwall: Value and Comfort A midwinter break can represent some of the best vacation value around, especially if, like us, you get lucky with the weather. But even if a storm, like the one predicted for this weekend, had hit during our stay, we’d have been quite happy sitting in a comfy chair up in Pendeenah’s room full of light admiring the coastal drama of it all. Explore More with Latitude50 Holiday Homes With houses across Daymer Bay, Polzeath, Port Isaac and Rock – ranging from 1 bedroom boltholes to 10 bedroom dream houses – there is something to suit all. Latitude50 Website FAQ: Staying at Pendeenah in Polzeath Where is Pendeenah holiday house? Pendeenah is in Polzeath, on the North Cornwall coast, close to Polzeath beach and the South West Coast Path. Its position makes it particularly convenient for exploring the coastline around Pentire, The Rumps, Rock and Daymer Bay. How many people can stay at Pendeenah? Pendeenah sleeps up to 11 people and has five bedrooms and four bathrooms, making it particularly suitable for families or groups holidaying together. Is Pendeenah close to Polzeath beach? Yes. The house has direct gated access towards the South West Coast Path and Polzeath beach is within easy walking distance. What is there to do around Polzeath? There are excellent coastal walks around Pentire Point and The Rumps, while Rock, Daymer Bay, St Enodoc and Padstow are all within easy reach. The South West Coast Path provides plenty of opportunities for exploring the North Cornwall coastline. Is Polzeath a good place to visit in winter? Yes. Winter is much quieter than the summer season, but the beach, coastal paths and spectacular scenery remain. A winter stay also gives you the chance to experience North Cornwall without the crowds that arrive during the main holiday season. Is Pendeenah suitable for a walking holiday? Very much so. Its position close to the South West Coast Path makes it a particularly good base for exploring the coastal landscape around Polzeath, Pentire and The Rumps. What makes Pendeenah different from a conventional holiday cottage? It is an upside-down house, with the bedrooms downstairs and the main living areas upstairs. This allows the kitchen, dining and sitting areas to make the most of the natural light and views towards the coast.

We had all endured weeks of dark skies leaking copious amounts of rain - but in our case the weather, and indeed the season, seemed to change in one startling, blinding, beautiful moment. I was lying on a large, comfortable bed, about to have a snooze after a long day out in Cornwall, and suddenly the hotel room was filled with the brightest sunlight we’d seen since last summer. So bright that my wife was forced to put on her sunglasses. It was that bright, even indoors! Mullion Cove on The Lizard, Cornwall But what made that moment really special was the sudden and unexpected noise. Not the most melodic sound in the world, but one that was wonderfully and hauntingly meaningful. It was the airy screeching of house-martins and swallows! Suddenly, there they were, scores of them circling the eaves of the grand Polurrian Hotel, perched high on the Lizard’s west coast. I cannot remember a half hour like it. I have never before witnessed the changing of the seasons in such an instant and condensed form. Weeks of rain suddenly cast away by the intensity of the sunshine. Months of cold and storms brushed away by the aerial dance magnificent flying creatures which had flown all the way from the tropics! Polurrian Hotel sits above the dramatic Lizard coast Why stay at the Polurrian on the Lizard? Perched high on the cliffs just outside Mullion, with sweeping views across Mount's Bay towards the open Atlantic, the Polurrian occupies one of those glorious positions that hotel designers can never create because nature has already done the hard work for them. You come here as much for the location as the hotel itself. The South West Coast Path passes almost beneath the gardens, a secluded little cove lies just below the cliffs, and within a few minutes' drive you can be standing at Lizard Point, gazing out from the southernmost tip of mainland Britain. If you'd like to experience the Polurrian for yourself, click below to check the latest prices and availability. There's no obligation to book, but it's always worth comparing dates, as room rates can vary throughout the year. Yet the Polurrian is much more than somewhere to rest your head after a day exploring Cornwall. It is one of those increasingly rare hotels that still feels spacious. There are broad lawns looking out to sea, comfortable lounges where you can happily while away an afternoon with a coffee or something stronger, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts and enough corners in which simply to sit and admire the view. Whether you're a couple looking for a relaxing short break, walkers tackling the coast path or a family determined to make the most of Cornwall's beaches, it somehow manages to cater for everyone without ever feeling crowded. Dogs are welcome too Anyone who enjoys walking the Cornish coast knows that holidays are often better with a dog trotting along in front, nose to the ground and tail wagging furiously at every new discovery. The Polurrian clearly understands that. Well-behaved dogs are genuinely welcome here and aren't simply tolerated. The hotel provides bowls, blankets and treats, and the staff are happy to point owners towards some of the best local walks. With miles of South West Coast Path passing virtually outside the front door, plus beaches and open countryside all around, it would be difficult to imagine a better base for a dog-friendly holiday in Cornwall. There is a modest nightly charge for canine guests, but for many owners it is a small price to pay for not having to leave a much-loved companion behind. If you are interested in this hotel take a look at our review of the Hotel Meudon, also in South Cornwall Having a drink in the Polurrian bar Food and dining A hotel can have the finest views in Britain, but if the food disappoints it somehow takes the shine off the whole stay. Fortunately, that isn't the case here. During our visit we found the cooking to be consistently good, served without fuss by friendly staff who seemed genuinely keen for everyone to enjoy themselves. Since then the Polurrian has developed its menus even further, making the most of Cornwall's outstanding produce. Fresh seafood, locally reared meat, seasonal vegetables and excellent Cornish dairy products all feature strongly, while there are plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free choices too. Whether you choose a leisurely breakfast before heading out to the cliffs, a relaxed lunch in the Vista Lounge or dinner in the restaurant as the sun sinks into the Atlantic, the emphasis is firmly on good local ingredients rather than unnecessary frills. And somehow everything tastes just that little bit better when accompanied by one of the finest sea views in Cornwall. The Lizard is the Southern Most Point It marked the very moment they’d returned to these shores after overwintering in Africa. We’d not spotted a single one of these excited, soaring, darting birds so far this year. Certainly not up in our Exmoor homeland… But down there, just a couple of miles from England’s most southerly point, they suddenly appeared en-masse. Entire squadrons of them. Screaming and weaving and soaring this way and that. The British mainland’s most southerly point at the Lizard is about 140 miles north of the nearest bit of the French coast - I don’t know if these tiny birds simply belt straight across but imagine it must be the case given that they wing-it all the way from Africa. The hotel's fascinating history The hotel has quite a story. It has played host to all manner of visitors, including Guglielmo Marconi, Winston Churchill and even Hollywood’s Clark Gable. Marconi stayed there in 1901 while sending the first ever transatlantic radio messages from nearby Poldhu Cove. Eight years after his stay, a fire devastated the original building, destroying everything but the garden terraces. A new hotel was built and the Polurrian became a hive of activity once again. During the Second World War, the place was turned into an officers’ mess for nearby RAF Predannack and, in 1953, the heart-throb Gable stayed there with co-star Gene Tierney while filming the romantic thriller, Never Let Me Go. You can see the original trailer on YouTube and there’s also a grainy clip showing an extraordinary black and white car chase through the cobbled streets of Mevagissey. Beach cafe at Poldhu Cove near the Polurrian Hotel Exploring the Lizard from the hotel We used it as a base to explore the Lizard peninsula, but there were plenty of nearby coastal walks to be enjoyed straight from the front door while the sun shone, including the one to lovely Poldhu Cove where there is a wonderful beach cafe. More about those establishments in a moment… Although it was sunny, there was a brisk chill wind blowing down from the north. Which puts the Lizard into a league of its own - because as the mainland’s most southerly zone it tends to be protected from anything that’s coming down from the Arctic. I’d say that during the afternoon we spent at south-facing Kennack Sands just east of Lizard Point, we were the warmest and most protected enjoyers of the great outdoors anywhere in Britain. Steps down to Kennack Sands I have seen this wonderful beach packed in high summer, but on this sunny April afternoon we were just about the only people there. While I pottered around studying the rock-pools on the far side of the steep little knoll which cuts Kennack Sands in two, my companions enjoyed cups of tea at the excellent little beachside cafe. There’s not one but two of these diminutive catering establishments beside this beautiful but out-of-the-way beach, and I salute the fact that they exist. Because I am beginning to think that beach cafes are one of the jewels in Britain’s crown. Tiny, little-talked about jewels, maybe - but they are upping their game around the coasts and offering better and better food and drink as times goes by. Indeed, we enjoyed an excellent and good value classic cream tea in one of the little cliffside huts right down on Lizard Point. From 100 feet above the shore we could sea giant waves clashing with one another as they arrived from either side of the Lizard’s west and east coasts. As the ferocious wind blew and shook the cafe windows in that bright sunshine, we could watch as the famous local choughs wheeled acrobatically on the updrafts. I got a few odd looks from the young and charming waiting staff for putting cream on my scones first, then jam - and was indeed informed this was not the Cornish way - but I am a Somerset boy, and must do what my mum told me. TAKE A LOOK AT OUR CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE Looking for other places to stay? While I'd happily recommend the Polurrian, every traveller is different. If you're looking for a cosy B&B, a family hotel, a seaside cottage or somewhere with a different budget, you'll find plenty of excellent accommodation around Mullion and the beautiful Lizard Peninsula. Anyway, it was lovely sitting there down at the bottom end of England in that gale. Exhilarating even. I’ve heard the classic West Country cream tea described in many way before, but never exhilarating… Revellers enjoying the Porthleven Food Festival During our stay on the Lizard, we also visited wonderful Porthleven - alas, a fortnight early so that we missed the culinary splendours of the harbour town’s annual food festival (read more here). But for now, this recent Lizard mini-break was exactly the sort of thing this website seeks to promote. It was by most people’s standards easily affordable, and it was filled with the promise of interesting places to visit and great food to eat. It was, in a nutshell, a very do-able and achievable, adventure. And for me it happened to mark the moment when winter changed into summer. Waves at Porthleven Is the Polurrian Good Value? Cornwall has no shortage of fine hotels, but many occupy the sort of price bracket that encourages a sharp intake of breath before you click the "Book Now" button. The Polurrian strikes me as a rather happier compromise. It enjoys one of the finest cliff-top settings in the county, offers facilities that many more expensive hotels would envy and, perhaps most importantly of all, never loses its relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. No, it isn't the cheapest place to stay on the Lizard, nor should it be. But when you consider the sea views, the comfortable accommodation, the excellent food, the swimming pools, the easy access to the coast path and the sheer amount there is to do without ever getting back into the car, I think it represents excellent value. It is the sort of hotel where you arrive intending to spend most of your time exploring Cornwall, only to find yourself quite happy lingering over breakfast, sitting on the terrace with a coffee or simply watching the Atlantic perform beyond the windows. Would I stay there again? Without hesitation. In fact, next time I think I'd book an extra night, because the Lizard deserves more than a hurried visit and the Polurrian is just the sort of place that encourages you to slow down and enjoy it. Aerial view of Kynance Cove just down the coast from the Polurrian Frequently Asked Questions Is the Polurrian Hotel dog friendly? Yes. Well-behaved dogs are welcome in selected rooms, and the hotel provides dog bowls, blankets and treats. With miles of coast path nearby, it's an excellent base for a walking holiday with your four-legged companion. Does the Polurrian have a swimming pool? It has both an indoor swimming pool and a seasonal outdoor pool, together with a hot tub, gym and tennis court, making it a good choice whatever the weather. Is the Polurrian suitable for families? Very much so. Families are well catered for with spacious grounds, children's play areas, family rooms, indoor games and easy access to nearby beaches and attractions. Can you walk from the hotel? Yes, and that's one of its greatest strengths. The South West Coast Path passes close to the hotel, with wonderful walks to Mullion Cove, Poldhu Cove and Lizard Point, while the hotel's own cove is just a short walk below the cliffs. Is there parking? Yes. Complimentary on-site parking is available for guests. What is the food like? The emphasis is on fresh Cornish ingredients, including locally landed seafood, regional meat and seasonal produce. Guests can choose between the restaurant, the relaxed Vista Lounge, afternoon teas and the bar, all accompanied by magnificent sea views. What is there to see nearby? The hotel is perfectly placed for exploring the Lizard Peninsula. Lizard Point, Kynance Cove, Mullion Cove, Poldhu Cove, Kennack Sands, Porthleven and the Marconi Centre are all within easy reach, making it an excellent base for discovering one of Cornwall's most beautiful corners.Explore more of the Lizard Peninsula If you're planning a few days in this beautiful corner of Cornwall, you may also enjoy: Lizard Point Kynance Cove Poldhu Cove Kennack Sands Porthleven Mullion Cove South West Coast Path

A cove on the eastern shore of The Lizard There are parts of Cornwall where choosing somewhere to stay is almost as important as deciding where to go. The Lizard Peninsula is certainly one of them. The Lizard is one vast cape stretching a dozen miles south from what could be regarded as the Cornish mainland into an azure oceanic world, and this journey southwards allows it to have a unique environment all of its own. The harbour mouth at Mullion Cove It is a headland of headlands, a cape of immense variety, a windswept netherworld of surprise and delight. The Lizard contains some of the West Country’s best beaches and coves and also some of its bleakest landscapes. It boasts deep woods and hidden demesnes; it has a helicopter graveyard, a massive airfield and even an Earth Station equipped with massive dishes you can see for miles. If you wanted to go somewhere very, very different but not leave the region, then the Lizard would be the place for you. I can never go there without thinking I’ve travelled to another country. It is more Brittany than Britain – you somehow feel that you ought to be handing over a visa or passport as you drive past the big security fence of RNAS Culdrose. The wild coast at Black Head, on the Lizard peninsula The Lizard is the closest you can get in the UK to the equator without getting your feet wet which, needless to say, makes it one of the warmest places in Britain. It is also made of weird and wonderful rocks you’ll be hard pushed to find anywhere else. Both these facts help make this remarkable peninsula to be quite different from anywhere else in these isles. Let’s start at that tip nearest the winter sun - you can be in no doubt as to where you are, simply because there’s a large sign declaring: “Most Southerly Point”. Lizard Point as seen from the west This extraordinary chunk of southern Cornwall has everything from wild Atlantic cliffs and tiny fishing coves to subtropical gardens, ancient inns and elegant country-house hotels. You can wake to the sound of the sea, walk straight onto the South West Coast Path, spend an afternoon exploring a fishing village – or simply find a sheltered corner where the world seems to have stopped. A walker between Lizard Point and Kynance Cove I have been visiting this part of Cornwall for decades and, over the years, I've stayed in some of its hotels and inns and visited many others. These are some of the places I'd recommend if you're looking for somewhere memorable to stay in the Lizard and the neighbouring Helford country. And they are very different from one another. Polurrian on the Lizard There are hotels where you stay because the accommodation is good – and there are hotels where the location is half the experience. The Polurrian Hotel overlooks a wild section of the coast is very much in the second category. Perched above Polurrian Cove near Mullion, it occupies one of those wonderfully dramatic positions where you can look out across the Atlantic and immediately feel that you've escaped the ordinary world. The cove is just below the hotel and the South West Coast Path runs through this remarkable stretch of coastline. It means that you can be out walking almost as soon as you've finished breakfast, while Mullion and the rest of the Lizard are within easy reach. I've stayed at the Polurrian and what I particularly like is that it manages to combine that spectacular coastal setting with the sort of comforts you expect from a proper Cornish hotel. The hotel is also going through an interesting new chapter, with major investment planned as it develops its facilities further. Interior of the Polurrian Hotel For me, though, the great attraction remains the same as it has always been: that view and that extraordinary position above the sea. [Read my full review of Polurrian on the Lizard] Mullion Cove Hotel If Polurrian has a dramatic position, then the Mullion Cove Hotel has an equally impressive one. Mullion Cove Hotel overlooks the famous harbour It sits above Mullion Cove itself, on the western side of the Lizard, with the sea stretching away towards the horizon. I've stayed here and it is one of those places where the setting does much of the talking. You can sit looking out over the cove and watch the Atlantic changing character from one hour to the next. On a calm summer day the water can look almost Mediterranean. In bad weather the same landscape becomes something altogether more elemental, with waves smashing into the rocks below. Mullion Cove Hotel in evening light That is one of the pleasures of staying on this coast: you don't have to manufacture an experience. Cornwall is providing one outside the window. The Mullion Cove Hotel also has a spa, swimming facilities and the sort of comfortable rooms and dining you'd expect from a high-end coastal hotel. But, as with Polurrian, I'd say the biggest luxury is geographical. You are on the Lizard coast, rather than merely staying somewhere from which you can drive to it. Cadgwith Cove Inn Then there is Cadgwith – and this is where the whole character of your Cornish holiday changes. Cadgwith is not really a conventional seaside resort. It is a working fishing cove, tucked into the eastern side of the Lizard, with boats, fishermen's sheds and cottages squeezed into the narrow valley. I've always loved the place. I once described Cadgwith as not so much a harbour as an indentation in the rocks. But what an indentation it is. The Cadgwith Cove Inn sits right in the middle of this little community and is the sort of place to choose if you want atmosphere rather than corporate polish. The building has a long history and the bar retains plenty of old-world character. There are guest bedrooms and, importantly, you are staying in Cadgwith, rather than somewhere several miles away and visiting it for an afternoon. Travel writer Martin Hesp enjoying lunch at the Cadgwith Cove Inn That makes a difference. Imagine finishing dinner, stepping outside and finding yourself in a tiny Cornish fishing village rather than a hotel car park. For walkers, it is particularly well placed for exploring the Lizard coast. And if you are interested in seafood, there is something rather satisfying about eating fish in a village where fishing boats are still hauled up on the beach. Rooms above Kota – Porthleven Porthleven isn't technically on the Lizard Peninsula, but it is close enough – and distinctive enough – to deserve inclusion here. I've also stayed in the rooms above Kota, and this is a completely different proposition from the big coastal hotels. Kota Restaurant with rooms at Porthleven The attraction is partly the accommodation and partly the food. Kota is one of Porthleven's best-known restaurants, and staying above it gives you the chance to combine a night in one of Cornwall's most atmospheric harbour villages with a serious meal downstairs. Porthleven itself makes an excellent base for exploring this part of Cornwall. It has the harbour, the sea, the South West Coast Path and a growing collection of independent places to eat. There is also something wonderfully convenient about not having to get back into the car after dinner. You simply go upstairs. For food-loving visitors, that is quite a persuasive argument. Porthleven on a winter's evening Budock Vean Hotel Now we move around the Helford River, into a very different sort of Cornwall. The Budock Vean is tucked away among 65 acres of grounds beside the Helford River and is one of those places that feels as though it belongs to a different, quieter Cornwall. I've stayed here and it is the sort of hotel where you can spend a surprising amount of time without feeling any need to go anywhere. Budock Vean Hotel as seen from the air There are gardens and woodland, the river is nearby and the South West Coast Path provides some wonderful walking. One of my favourite things about staying at Budock Vean was simply being able to walk out through the grounds and eventually make my way down towards Helford Passage. And there is a particularly good reward at the end of that walk. The Ferry Boat Inn sits beside the water at Helford Passage and is one of my favourite Cornish pubs. Gardens at Budock Vean, Cornwall I've eaten there several times and it has exactly the sort of waterside atmosphere that makes you reluctant to leave. The Helford itself is also one of the most beautiful corners of Cornwall. It is a ria rather than an ordinary river, its sheltered waters winding between wooded hills and creeks. If you like walking, gardens, boats, good food and a sense of peace, Budock Vean makes an exceptionally good base. Hotel Meudon Hotel Meudon is another place where the setting is the star. It lies near Mawnan Smith, between Falmouth and the Helford River, at the top of a wooded valley which tumbles down towards Bream Cove. Hotel Meudon, South Cornwall, at night I've stayed here and the first thing I remember is the sense of stepping into another world. The gardens are subtropical, helped by the sheltered valley and the relatively mild climate of this part of Cornwall. Paths wind through the vegetation towards the secluded beach below. It is a rather extraordinary combination: a country-house atmosphere, exotic gardens and the sea at the bottom of the valley. The Meudon is particularly appealing if you want somewhere peaceful but don't necessarily want to be in the middle of a fishing village or perched dramatically on a cliff. It is more secret garden than seaside resort. And that is precisely its appeal. The Ferry Boat Inn, Helford Passage I'm including the Ferry Boat Inn even though I haven't stayed there overnight because I know it well enough to say that it belongs in any guide to this part of Cornwall. The pub sits right beside the water at Helford Passage and has the sort of location that seems almost too good to be true. I've visited several times, including after walks from the Budock Vean, and it remains one of my favourite places for a drink or a meal in this part of the world. The ferry crossing over the Helford adds another little touch of magic. You can arrive on foot, by boat or by road and, once you're sitting beside the river, it feels a long way from the rest of the world. For anyone planning a walking holiday around the Helford, this is exactly the sort of place that makes a good base or stopping point. Helford ferry So where should you stay? That depends on what sort of Cornwall you are looking for. For dramatic coastal scenery: I'd look first at the Polurrian or Mullion Cove Hotel. For a genuine Cornish fishing-village experience: Cadgwith Cove Inn is hard to beat. For food and a harbour atmosphere: the rooms above Kota in Porthleven make a particularly interesting choice. For walking, gardens and the Helford River: I'd be very tempted by Budock Vean. For peace, subtropical gardens and a secluded beach: Hotel Meudon is something rather special. And if you're staying anywhere around the Helford, make time for a meal or a drink at the Ferry Boat Inn. It is one of those places that seems to encapsulate what makes this corner of Cornwall so appealing. Cornwall is better when you stay a while The great thing about all these places is that they allow you to experience a side of Cornwall that is easily missed by day-trippers. The Lizard can be spectacularly busy in summer, particularly around places such as Kynance Cove and Lizard Point. But stay overnight and the rhythm changes. The coaches disappear. The car parks empty. The evening light settles over the cliffs and coves. Fishing boats come and go. The roads become quieter. And suddenly you have the Lizard almost to yourself. That, for me, is one of the best reasons for staying down here. Cornwall is wonderful when you visit for the day. But the really good stuff often happens when you stay the night. Poldhu Cove, Cornwall Frequently Asked Questions What are the best places to stay on the Lizard Peninsula? Some of the best places to stay on the Lizard Peninsula include Polurrian on the Lizard, Mullion Cove Hotel and Cadgwith Cove Inn. They offer very different experiences, from dramatic coastal hotels to staying in a genuine Cornish fishing village. Where is the best place to stay on the Lizard for walking? The Lizard is particularly good for walking, with the South West Coast Path passing through some spectacular scenery. Polurrian, Mullion and Cadgwith all make good bases for exploring the coast on foot. Is the Lizard Peninsula a good place for a holiday in Cornwall? Yes. The Lizard offers some of Cornwall's most spectacular coastal scenery, together with beaches, fishing villages, gardens, pubs and excellent walking. Staying overnight also means you can experience the peninsula after the day-trippers have gone home. Where is the best place to stay near the Helford River? Budock Vean is an excellent choice for exploring the Helford River, with its extensive grounds, woodland and access to walks towards Helford Passage. Hotel Meudon, near Mawnan Smith, is another distinctive option in the same general area. Where should food lovers stay in South Cornwall? The rooms above Kota in Porthleven are an interesting choice for food lovers because they combine accommodation with one of the area's best-known restaurants. Porthleven itself is also a good base for exploring the Lizard and surrounding South Cornwall.

The Mediterranean has always been a meeting place for civilisations, cultures, and flavours. Long before modern tourism connected its islands and coastal cities, sailors carried grapes, wine, and winemaking traditions between communities scattered around the sea. Today, those traditions remain visible in vineyards shaped by salt air, volcanic soils, limestone hills, intense sunshine, and centuries of human cultivation. For travellers interested in discovering this heritage, targeted mediterranean cruises offer an appealing way to experience several wine-producing regions within one journey. Celebrity Cruises, for example, features Mediterranean itineraries that include destinations across Greece, Italy, Spain, Croatia, Turkey, France, Malta, and other parts of the region, creating opportunities to combine coastal landscapes with local food, history, and wine culture. What Makes Mediterranean Terroir Special? The French word terroir describes the combination of soil, climate, landscape, and human traditions that influence the character of wine. In the Mediterranean, terroir can change dramatically over relatively short distances. Island vineyards are particularly fascinating because their geography creates distinctive growing conditions. Strong sunlight, limited rainfall, sea breezes, rocky soils, and elevation can all influence how grapes develop. Rather than producing wines that taste identical from one destination to another, these conditions contribute to highly individual regional styles. The relationship between vines and the landscape is especially visible on islands where agriculture has adapted to difficult terrain. Vineyards may be planted on steep slopes, volcanic ground, or exposed coastal hillsides. Traditional cultivation methods developed over generations often remain part of modern winemaking. Santorini and the Volcanic Character of Assyrtiko Few Mediterranean wine landscapes are as recognizable as Santorini. The Greek island is famous for its volcanic terrain and distinctive vineyards, particularly those producing Assyrtiko. The island's traditional kouloura method trains vines close to the ground in basket-shaped formations. This helps protect grapes from strong winds while making use of the island's challenging growing conditions. Santorini's wine culture also illustrates how ancient traditions can face modern environmental pressures. Recent drought and extreme heat have significantly affected grape yields, prompting local winemakers to explore new approaches to irrigation and vineyard management. For travelers, the appeal is not simply tasting a glass of wine. Visiting a vineyard or tasting room can reveal how geography, climate, architecture, and agriculture have developed together over centuries. Crete: A Wine Tradition Stretching Back Thousands of Years Crete provides another remarkable example of Mediterranean viticultural heritage. Evidence from the island connects wine production with the Bronze Age and the Minoan civilisation. Archaeological sites such as Knossos and Phaistos provide important context for understanding the long history of wine on the island. Modern Cretan winemakers continue to work with indigenous varieties including Vidiano, Vilana, Dafni, Kotsifali, and Mandilaria. The island's varied elevations, soils, and microclimates allow producers to create wines ranging from fresh whites to structured reds and traditional sweet styles. This combination of ancient heritage and contemporary experimentation makes Crete particularly interesting for travellers who want to understand wine as part of a broader cultural story. Italian Islands and Coastal Vineyards Italy adds another dimension to Mediterranean wine culture. Sicily, Sardinia, and smaller islands have developed wine traditions shaped by their individual climates and landscapes. Sicily, for instance, combines volcanic areas around Mount Etna with coastal plains and mountainous terrain. Around Etna, vineyards benefit from elevation and volcanic soils, producing wines with characteristics that differ considerably from those found elsewhere on the island. Celebrity Cruises highlights destinations such as Taormina and the Italian coastline among its Mediterranean experiences, allowing travellers to combine historic towns, dramatic landscapes, and regional cuisine in the same trip. For wine enthusiasts, coastal travel provides an opportunity to see how different Italian regions respond to the same broad Mediterranean climate while producing remarkably different wines. Croatia and the Adriatic Wine Heritage The eastern Mediterranean and Adriatic coastline offer another important chapter in the story. Croatia's islands and coastal regions have cultivated grapes for centuries, with local varieties reflecting the country's maritime geography. The Dalmatian coast is particularly notable for vineyards growing on rocky and often sun-exposed terrain. Islands such as Korčula and Hvar have developed distinctive wine identities, while the mainland coast contributes additional styles and grape varieties. A journey through this part of the Mediterranean demonstrates that island wine traditions are not simply variations of mainland agriculture. Isolation, local geology, sea exposure, and historical trade routes have all helped shape distinctive regional identities. Wine, Food, and the Mediterranean Table Wine traditions are inseparable from Mediterranean food culture. A vineyard visit becomes more meaningful when paired with local dishes that have evolved alongside regional wines. Fresh seafood, grilled vegetables, olives, cheeses, herbs, tomatoes, and cured meats frequently appear alongside local wines. In Greece, crisp whites can complement seafood and mezze, while Italian coastal cuisines often pair regional wines with pasta, shellfish, and grilled fish. The relationship works in both directions: local cuisine influences winemaking preferences, while wines become part of the cultural identity of the communities producing them. Turning a Mediterranean Journey Into a Wine Experience Travellers do not necessarily need to plan an entire vacation around wine to experience this heritage. A well-selected itinerary can provide opportunities to explore different coastal cultures while leaving room for food and wine experiences ashore. Celebrity Cruises offers Mediterranean itineraries ranging from shorter destination-focused voyages to longer explorations, with ports across Greece, Italy, Spain, Croatia, Turkey, France, Malta, Montenegro, and other destinations. This makes cruising particularly convenient for travellers interested in comparing regional traditions. Instead of choosing one vineyard region and staying there, you can experience multiple coastal cultures during a single vacation. Preserving Ancient Traditions for the Future Mediterranean wine culture is ancient, but it is not frozen in time. Climate change, water shortages, changing consumer preferences, and economic pressures are forcing winemakers to adapt. Santorini provides a clear example of this challenge, with recent heat and drought placing considerable pressure on traditional vineyards. Producers are exploring irrigation strategies and alternative vineyard configurations while attempting to preserve the qualities that make the island's wines distinctive. This balance between preservation and innovation may define the future of Mediterranean winemaking. The goal is not simply to reproduce the past, but to keep traditional varieties and techniques relevant under changing conditions. Conclusion Mediterranean wine is ultimately a story about place. From volcanic Santorini to the ancient vineyards of Crete, from Sicily's dramatic slopes to Croatia's Adriatic islands, each region expresses its own relationship with soil, climate, sea, and history. Exploring these traditions by sea adds another layer to the experience. Rather than seeing individual wine regions as isolated destinations, travellers can understand them as parts of a larger Mediterranean network shaped by centuries of trade, migration, agriculture, and cultural exchange. For anyone fascinated by wine, food, history, and landscapes, a carefully chosen Mediterranean cruise can turn the journey itself into a way of discovering the region's remarkable wine heritage. Sponsored feature

Imagine a small coastal town where you can have one of the best dinners in the entire region and know for a fact that you could carry on dining extremely well during a week-long stay if you were to visit other venues dotted around the local harbour. I was fortunate enough not to have to imagine such a thing. I knew I had found a genuine foodie-hot-spot as I looked out of a restaurant window while dining out in Porthleven. For those who don’t know it, the old fishing village on the north-western shore of the Lizard Peninsula, has become a centre of culinary excellence. The famous clocktower at Porthleven Turning from the window, a quick glance down at the Kota Restaurant’s eight-course tasting menu was enough to remind me that I was having dinner somewhere very special indeed. I had eaten food cooked by head chef Ross Sloan before (and waxed lyrical about it in these pages) so I knew it would be innovative and first class. But seeing the very first offering - a single large oyster served with homemade rhubarb vinegar and whey puree, alongside my wife’s oyster wrapped in a nest of deep friend potato noodles… Well, that was enough to get me very excited indeed. Where to stay in Porthleven One of the great advantages of making a food trip to Porthleven is that you don't necessarily have to drive home afterwards. I stayed in the rooms above Kota Restaurant, right on the harbour head, and would happily recommend them to anyone wanting to combine good food with a stay in the village. The accommodation is particularly convenient if you're eating at Kota: you can have dinner downstairs and simply walk upstairs afterwards. There are three rooms, all with king-size beds and en-suite bathrooms, while the larger family room has views over the harbour. Kota is also within easy walking distance of Porthleven beach, the pubs, cafés and the South West Coast Path. Mussels at Kota restaurant, Porthleven The smoked mackerel doughnuts with horseradish cream and herring roe which followed were equally sensational, as were the little beef-tartare tartlets dressed in an oyster emulsion with gochujang, capers and shallots which followed. These dishes were a wonderful introduction to a course of heritage tomatoes filled with Mylor crab, cucumber, lovage, and tomato ponzu dressing. Which in itself was a refreshing way of saying hello to the Cornish wild sea bass cooked over charcoal, brushed with lemon oil and served with fennel puree and shellfish coconut bisque and mild but delicious local elephant garlic scapes. CHECK OUT OUR CORNWALL WALKS PAGE I could go on. All this, and we were only halfway through the menu! Which, by the way, was very good value. Yes, I know that paying £75 for one person’s dinner might seem a lot given the number of food banks there are in the region, but in Copenhagen where I was last week you can pay over £400 a head at some restaurants, and I know a good many British venues where the tasting menu will be double Kota’s price. I also know that you can part with more than £30 for a simple plate of steak and chips - so 75 quid spent on all this skill and artistry seemed a bargain. The restaurant Kota has rooms where you can stay above Why Porthleven has become a Cornish food destination Months ago when I was first working on the new newspaper series I spotted Ross Sloan out foraging in a remote Cornish cove and, soon after that, was invited to stay at Kota which has comfortable visitor accommodation directly above the harbour-side restaurant. So I certainly wasn’t going to turn down the invite, although I had no idea just how good his latest cooking would be. But there was another reason I wanted to spend some time with in Porthleven… I wanted to find out how and why it had become one of the premier foodie-hotspots of the region - and to do that I needed to speak to a man called Jude Kereama. He is the chef patron of Kota, and a larger restaurant called Kota Kai just 30 metres along the harbour-side. A couple of decades ago no one would have dreamed of coming to this corner of Cornwall for the food. There was a fantastic chippie (its retired lorry-driver owner told me it was his lifetime’s ambition to cook and serve the best fish and chips in the land - and for a while he did just that), but there wasn’t really anything else to rock anyone’s fishing boat. Now it is one of the single locations west of the Tamar which has enough fine dining places to keep a discerning diner happy for a week and which is also close to wonderful beaches and fabulous walks. It also has an annual food festival which has been getting bigger and better for the past 16 years - an event which was the brainchild of the charming and enthusiastic Mr Kereama and his late wife, Jane. SEE OUR REVIEW OF THE POLURRIAN HOTEL CLOSE TO PORTHLEVEN Chef Jude Kereama New Zealand born Jude honed his kitchen skills with one of NZ’s top chefs before coming to the UK where he met Jane. Searching for a restaurant in the UK, they settled in Porthleven and opened Kota in 2006, before launching Kota Kai in 2011. Kota (meaning ‘shellfish’ in Maori - Jude is half Maori, half Chinese-Malay) and Kota Kai have since become stalwarts of the Cornish food scene and bring together the eclectic flavours of Jude’s heritage, creating menus utilising the best local produce with a signature Asian twist. He earned the Trencherman’s Award for 'Special Contribution' in 2020 and was named 'Chef Of The Year' in 2019. Kota is recognised by both the Good Food Guide and the Michelin Guide with a prestigious Bib Gourmand Award and the AA (one of only five restaurants in Cornwall to have been awarded three Rosettes). Jude, who has appeared in four series of the Great British Menu and has proved to be one of the most popular figures in the competition, admits that the Porthleven Food Festival has really helped to put the town on the map… “It all started when some friends who had a local delicatessen were with us and we were commiserating on the lack of business on a quiet winter Saturday night,” he told me. “We were asking how we could drive some interest out of season. That’s where the idea for a food and music festival was born and we formed a small committee. There were eight of us running around like bananas trying to organise everything. That was 15 years ago and it’s going from strength to strength. “I’d been an executive chef in charge of opening restaurants in London, so it was a bit odd that, in coming to Porthleven, I ignored everything I’d learned. The first thing you do is research the demographics - who is going to eat in your restaurant? But when it came to Porthleven we didn’t do our research very well. I tell the story about how some locals came to check out the new menu when we moved here, and they said: ‘What’s a jalapeno?’ There were loads of things on the menu they’d never heard of. However, we fell in love with the village - and what we loved about Porthleven is that there’s a huge heart to the community.” A very local, Cornish community which nowadays plays host to one of the region’s finest food festivals in April when some of the top UK chefs turn up to share their knowledge and their cooking and join in the fun. “The festival has highlighted what’s on offer here, which attracts visitors all year round - and we really do have some fabulous places to eat,” said Jude, generously plugging all the many competitor venues around town. “Fishing was at an all-time low when we arrived here 19 years ago - now it’s become a really foodie place and that of course helps the local fishing industry. People are coming here to stay for a long weekend or even a week, because they know they can eat out very well indeed.” The upturn has helped local people who work within the catering industry - one of them being chef Ross Sloan who grew up nearby. “I worked in local hotels as a kid then went travelling, before coming back to Cornwall. By the age of 21 I was a head chef, but there wasn’t much competition around. I was a bit geeky, researching everything I could. SEE OUR REVIEW OF THE HOTEL MEUDON JUST A 20 MINUTE DRIVE FROM PORTHLEVEN “You need to fail to learn, and that’s what I’ve done,” says the overly modest Ross. “So I worked with Jude and eventually became head chef here at Kota about 10 years ago, but I went on to do other things. Like a lot of people I’ve had a scattered career. Now I’m enjoying being back at Kota - and what I never want to do is become one of those chefs who are just robots. I need to be creative - I enjoy the research, sitting down reading books, looking at pictures of food, getting ideas.” Which is the reason why Ross is one of the most innovative and creative chefs in the region. He offered to take me foraging along the local seashore and I’ll be returning to Porthleven to do some cooking with the highly experience Jude on Kota Kai’s Josper grill - SEE THE ARTICLE HERE In the meantime, I worked off my large dinner by going for a lengthy walk along the coast which gives these chefs and many others their inspiration… PORTHLEVEN COAST WALK Coast just north of Porthleven While in town I discovered a wonderful corner of the Cornish coastline which I had not visited before. On a map, the littoral north of the town looks a little dull - you kind of get the idea that fields reach the cliff-edge, and that’s that. Unlike the hike south of the harbour which takes you to remarkable Loe Pool, the largest area of brackish water in the region,. But walk from Porthleven up to a hamlet called Rinsey and you will discover one of the most interesting and scenic stretches of coastline in the region - where you can explore one or two of the area’s secret coves as well as an amazing area dominated by old mine chimneys and engine houses. I was told the National Trust owned section around Rinsey was used in the filming of the Poldark series, and I am not at all surprised. PORTHLEVEN FOOD FESTIVAL The town’s free, award-winning, three-day food festival is held every April and is designed to celebrate Cornwall’s leading food and drink producers, stimulate the local economy, and raise awareness of key issues relating to the environment, food culture and sustainable food production. The festival offers a fantastic foodie experience for residents and visitors alike, offering a full weekend of entertainment including chef demos, live music, family-friendly activities, evening sessions and much more – in a whole town takeover. Cornwall’s leading event production company Mission Code deliver the festival, which is overseen by a small committee of enthusiastic and committed volunteers from the local community. Where to stay in Porthleven If you are coming to Porthleven for a few days, rather than simply visiting for lunch or a walk, I would recommend staying at Kota Restaurant & Rooms, right on Harbour Head. I know the owner, Jude Kereama, and having stayed in the rooms myself, I can see why this is such a good little place to base yourself. There are just three rooms, each with a king-size bed and en-suite bathroom, so it has a pleasantly intimate feel rather than that of a conventional hotel. The larger family room also has views across the harbour. And then there is the obvious advantage: Kota restaurant is downstairs. You can have a very good dinner, enjoy a drink and then simply walk upstairs to bed. Kota Kai, Jude's other restaurant, is also nearby. The location is hard to beat. You are right on the harbour, with Porthleven beach only a few minutes' walk away and the village's pubs, cafés and other restaurants all close at hand. It also makes an excellent base if you want to explore this stretch of the South West Coast Path. Breakfast is available, too, so you can wake up in the heart of Porthleven, have something to eat and then set off along the coast. For a couple wanting to combine a short break with some good food and coastal walking, I think Kota Restaurant & Rooms is one of the nicest places to stay in Porthleven. And because I have stayed there myself, this is one recommendation I am very happy to make. Frequently Asked Questions About Staying in Porthleven Where is the best place to stay in Porthleven? For a food-focused break in Porthleven, I would recommend Kota Restaurant & Rooms, which occupies a prime position on Harbour Head. You are right in the heart of the village, close to the beach, harbour, pubs, cafés and restaurants. Can you stay at Kota Restaurant in Porthleven? Yes. Kota has three comfortable rooms above the restaurant, each with a king-size bed and en-suite bathroom. There is also a larger family room with views across the harbour. Is Kota Restaurant & Rooms good for couples? Yes. Its small size, harbour-front location and excellent restaurant make it particularly well suited to couples looking for a relaxing food and walking break in Porthleven. How close is Kota Restaurant & Rooms to Porthleven beach? The beach is only a few minutes' walk away. The harbour, South West Coast Path, shops, pubs, cafés and other restaurants are also within easy walking distance. Is Kota Restaurant & Rooms a good base for walking? Very much so. Porthleven is a good starting point for exploring this section of the Cornish coast, and staying at Kota means you can finish a day's walking and be back in the village without needing to drive. Does Kota Restaurant & Rooms have a restaurant? Yes. One of the great attractions is that Kota restaurant is downstairs, serving Jude Kereama's distinctive food. Kota Kai, his other restaurant, is also close by. Does Kota Restaurant & Rooms serve breakfast? Yes, breakfast is available for guests, making it easy to get something to eat before heading out to explore Porthleven and the surrounding coast. Would you recommend staying at Kota Restaurant & Rooms? Yes. I have stayed there myself and know the owner, Jude Kereama, so this is a recommendation based on personal experience. For anyone wanting to combine good food, a comfortable room and the pleasures of Porthleven's harbour and coastline, it is a particularly appealing little place to stay.

When a friend invited me to join him on the coastal walk from Mullion Cove to the Lizard the other day, I wasn’t about to say no - even if the weather threatened. Brief video of the Mullion Harbour area The west coast of the Lizard is no place to be in a storm - the entire look of the place is one that is carved from wind and spume - but it is very, very beautiful. Mullion Cove Apartments underneath the Mullion Cove Hotel And, anyway, I was staying at the excellent dog-friendly Mullion Cove Harbour Apartments which is THE ideal base for a seaborne jaunt along the South West Coast Path. See our Cornwall walks page here Mullion Cove Harbour Apartments make an excellent base for exploring this spectacular corner of Cornwall. Set right beside Mullion Harbour, they put you within easy reach of the South West Coast Path — and that was exactly why I was staying there when a friend suggested we walk from Mullion Cove to Lizard Point. It is a magnificent stretch of the Lizard Peninsula, taking in wild cliffs, Predannack, Kynance Cove and some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in southern Cornwall. So, with the weather threatening but the prospect of a good walk ahead, we set off from Mullion Cove. Mullion Cove Apartments (right) The climb out of the cove is a steep one - but once you’re up on the high cliffs it’s all fairly level with a few ups and downs on the way - although nowhere near as big-dipper like as the coast path can be along its rugged length. Looking down into Mullion Cove Along this first section of the hike you can look over your shoulder to the north and see how St Michaels’ Bay curves around in a mighty arc past Porthleven all the way to Penzance, Newlyn and Mousehole. Lizard west coast looking across to the Polurrian Hotel But once you are around the corner of Predannack Head you are in a wilder, more remote bit of coastal country. Predannack is a far-flung place and its landscape is as outlandish as its distant location. It is a graveyard for the helicopters and aeroplanes which you can see in our photographs. You can see them in the distance on this walk. Here’s a brief World War Two tale that refers to RAF Predannack. A Flying Fortress co-pilot wrote that he had been returning to England after a bombing mission when he and his crew were attacked by German FW-190's, and in the scrap they lost an engine and had two others damaged. Old helicopters at Predannack “We jettisoned over two tons of equipment and had dropped to 20 feet over the water when we were attacked by another two FW-190's. One was shot down by our gunner, and the other flew away. We landed our badly damaged B-17 at RAF Predannack.” A harrowing tale, simply put. You will see the old aerodrome where Dave Rogan of the 358th managed to land that giant machine, and you may even feel a frisson of fear, thrill and danger just looking at the disused runway where larks now sing. Check out our review of the nearby Polurrian Hotel here A quick look at the map will show you how the old airfield dominates the landscape up here. The walk continues along the clifftops past features with fantastic names - in one bay alone there's Gew-graze, Pigeon Ogo and Ogo Pons… Past Vellan Head with its mighty cliffs we go before tucking in around the indentation where Soap Rock stands to reach the wide plain above Kynance Cliff. I say wide plain - but this entire landscape is nothing but a big wide plain once you’re inland from the cliffs. And before you know it you'll be down at Kynance Cove which is one of the great National Trust treasures to be found along our splendid shores. It is the most quintessential of coves and over the years I've been lucky enough to see it in all its moods: from soft sandy paddling pool to boiling raging cauldron. Cliffs above Kynance Cove I do not know why the cafe here closes in winter - I’d have thought the National Trust would be pleased to keep the place open given all the folk who wonder down to the cove even at this time of year. An old place this - there was a cafe at Kynance Cove as early as 1700. Excursionists - as tourists were once called - used to come here to marvel at nature's cauldron. Alfred Lord Tennyson was so impressed he visited twice to admire the "glorious grass green monsters of waves." We looked down past Asparagus Island into Rill Cove where, in 1616, a galleon of some sort was wrecked. No one knows what ship this was but divers have brought up a banded breechloading gun and more than 300 16th Century coins from its tide based skeleton. Stunning coastal panoramas. That sums up this entire walk in a far-flung seashell and if you like dizzying cliffs and the roaring crash of the wildest of seas, then this is the place for you. And so we went, past the National Trust car park on our way to the British mainland’s most southerly point. Past past Pentreath Beach, Caerthillian Cove, Holseer Cove, and Venton Hill Point we went to eventually reach Lizard Point itself. Some call it Old Lizard Head, while the one just below the car park beyond is Lizard Point proper. Around the corner we come to Pistol Meadow. Nothing to do with firearms - the name comes from the Cornish 'pystyll' meaning waterfall. I say the place is sepulchral because some 200 bodies are buried there and you can still make out low mounds of graves inland from the grove of tamarisk trees. The Lizard, or Lizard Point In 1720 a troop ship called the Royal Anne ploughed into the rocks of the bay - you only have to look at the reefs to know that few survived. No Christian burial, just a mass-grave beyond the tamarisk. Some say you can still hear the cries of lost souls on a stormy night, or is it only the distant clanging of the shipping buoy? The old lifeboat station at Lizard Point At last we reach our destination - or Lizard Point proper, to put it another way. We had lunch here at the little cafe just before the heavens opened. My wife had arrived to pick us up - otherwise it was either a seven mile walk back or a hike up to Lizard Town where we could have caught the No 37 bus back to Mullion. Choughs in a field at Lizard Point Which ever way you make your return, you will have enjoyed one of the best coastal walks in England - and certainly, the most southerly coastal walk in the mainland UK. Where to stay for the Mullion to Lizard walk If you are planning to walk from Mullion Cove to Lizard Point, Mullion Cove Harbour Apartments make an excellent base. I stayed here when I did this walk and found the location particularly convenient: the apartments are right by Mullion Harbour, putting you almost immediately into the spectacular coastal landscape of the Lizard Peninsula. The self-catering apartments have fully equipped kitchens, comfortable living areas and sea views, with some overlooking Mullion Harbour itself. They are also dog friendly, making them particularly useful if you want to combine a walking holiday in Cornwall with a break away with your four-legged companion. There is something especially appealing about being able to finish a long coastal walk and return to your own apartment rather than having to get back into the car. From Mullion Cove you are also well placed for exploring more of the South West Coast Path, as well as Kynance Cove, Lizard Point and the other attractions of the Lizard Peninsula. The apartments are part of the Mullion Cove Hotel complex, so guests can also make use of the wider facilities and, subject to availability, the hotel's restaurant. If you are looking for accommodation for the Mullion to Lizard walk, I would certainly recommend considering the Mullion Cove Harbour Apartments. Their combination of location, views and self-catering flexibility makes them a particularly good choice for walkers. Find out more about Mullion Cove Harbour Apartments Mullion to Lizard Walk FAQ Where is the best place to stay for the Mullion to Lizard walk? Mullion Cove Harbour Apartments make an excellent base for the walk. They are right beside Mullion Harbour, close to the South West Coast Path, and offer self-catering accommodation with sea views. I stayed there when I did the walk and found the location particularly convenient. How long is the Mullion to Lizard walk? The walk from Mullion Cove to Lizard Point is around 7 miles, depending on the precise route taken and where you choose to finish. Allow several hours because there are plenty of spectacular viewpoints and places worth stopping to explore along the way. Is the Mullion to Lizard walk difficult? It is a reasonably strenuous coastal walk, with some steep sections, uneven ground and plenty of ups and downs. Good walking footwear is recommended, particularly after wet weather. The scenery, however, makes the effort worthwhile. Can you walk from Mullion Cove to Kynance Cove? Yes. Kynance Cove lies on the South West Coast Path between Mullion Cove and Lizard Point, making it one of the highlights of the route. Its white sand, turquoise water and dramatic serpentine cliffs make it one of the most beautiful spots on the Lizard Peninsula. Are there places to stay near Mullion Cove? Yes. There are several accommodation options around Mullion, but Mullion Cove Harbour Apartments have the advantage of being directly beside the harbour and close to the coast path. They are particularly suitable for walkers wanting to explore the Lizard Peninsula without having to drive to the start of their walks.