Emmental Cheese - Learning About its History and How to Make it

Emmental Cheese: History, Holes and How It's Made

We recently visited a remarkable and rather beautiful part of Switzerland where they make one of the world's most famous cheeses – Emmental.

It is the sort of place where the landscape seems to have been designed specifically for making cheese. The green hills of the Emmental region roll away towards the mountains, cows graze in the fields and there are traditional farmhouses scattered across the countryside.

And, of course, there is cheese. Lots of it.

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In fact, once you start looking at a traditional wheel of Emmental, you realise that this is not simply something you put on a sandwich. These are enormous cheeses, weighing anything up to around 120kg, and their manufacture is a surprisingly intricate business.

So I was rather pleased to discover that the story of this famous Swiss cheese can be explored at the Emmentaler Visitor Centre, right in the heart of the region that gave the cheese its name.

Discovering Emmental Cheese in Switzerland

The Emmental takes its name from the valley of the River Emme in the canton of Bern. Cheese-making in the region can be traced back to the 13th century and, over the centuries, Emmentaler became one of Switzerland's great culinary exports.

There is something rather satisfying about visiting the place where a food originated.

We all know Emmental cheese. Or at least we think we do.

It is the cheese with the enormous holes, isn't it?

Well, yes – but there is considerably more to it than that.

The traditional cheese is made from fresh, untreated cow's milk, with the cows feeding on grass and hay rather than silage. The milk, along with water, rennet, bacterial cultures and salt, is transformed into those enormous golden wheels that have become synonymous with Swiss cheese.

And there is a very good reason why the Swiss take the business so seriously.

Our Emmental cheese-maker guide

Visiting the Emmentaler Visitor Centre

To celebrate its heritage, the Emmentaler Visitor Centre was established in the heart of the Emmental region.

It offers a fascinating look at the history, production and cultural importance of the cheese, with interactive exhibits, demonstrations of cheese-making and, naturally, opportunities to taste the finished product.

This is not one of those places where you are simply shown a few photographs and then pointed towards a gift shop.

You actually get an idea of how much work goes into producing the stuff.

And I found that particularly interesting because, although we tend to think of cheese-making as something rather simple – milk goes in, cheese comes out – the reality is much more complicated.

There is a remarkable amount of knowledge involved in getting everything just right.

The Emmental Show Dairy, for example, brings together several generations of cheese dairies and demonstrates both traditional and more modern methods of production. Visitors can follow an indoor experience explaining the history and manufacture of Emmentaler, and there is also the opportunity to see cheese-making taking place.

It is, in other words, a place where food becomes history.

A Short History of Emmental Cheese

Emmental is an ancient cheese by any standards.

Switzerland Tourism traces cheese production in the Emmental region back to the 13th century, while the Emmentaler organisation records one of the first written references to the cheese in 1557.

In the early days, Emmentaler was produced largely during the summer on Alpine meadows.

Then, in the early 19th century, cheese dairies began appearing down in the valleys. A dairy established in Kiesen in 1815 is recognised as an important milestone in the development of valley production. As more dairies appeared, the production and distribution of Emmentaler expanded far beyond its original home.

It eventually became a cheese known far beyond Switzerland.

But perhaps the most remarkable thing is how little the basic method has changed.

Modern machinery has obviously made some jobs easier, but the fundamental production process remains rooted in traditional cheesemaking. Today, Emmentaler AOP is still produced in around 110 cheese dairies.

Why Does Emmental Cheese Have Holes?

Now we come to the really obvious question.

Why does Emmental have those great big holes?

The answer is actually rather wonderful.

The holes – or "eyes", as cheesemakers call them – are created during the fermentation and maturation of the cheese.

Bacteria added during the cheesemaking process produce carbon dioxide as part of the fermentation. The gas becomes trapped within the curd, creating pockets which gradually develop into the familiar holes as the cheese matures.

And these aren't simply random holes.

The size and appearance of them are carefully monitored as the cheese matures. In fact, the holes are part of the assessment of the finished cheese.

So when you next look at a slice of Emmental and see those great round gaps, remember that you are actually looking at the result of a carefully controlled biological process.

Which is a rather more interesting way of looking at a cheese sandwich.

How Is Emmental Cheese Made?

The process starts with the milk.

Traditional Emmentaler AOP is made using fresh, untreated raw cow's milk. The cows are fed on grass and hay, and the milk is delivered to the cheese dairy very quickly – generally within a short distance of the farm – so that it can be processed while it is still fresh.

The milk is warmed to around 32°C and bacterial cultures are added.

Then comes the rennet, which causes the milk to curdle and separates the solid curds from the liquid whey.

The curd is cut into small pieces, heated and stirred before being transferred into enormous circular moulds.

And I do mean enormous.

A traditional Emmentaler wheel can be around 80 to 100 centimetres across and weigh somewhere between 75 and 120kg, with an average wheel weighing around 95kg.

That is a lot of cheese.

The young cheese is then pressed, placed in a salt bath and sent into the maturation process.

And this is where patience becomes rather important.

The Long Wait for a Swiss Cheese

Emmentaler is not made in a hurry.

The wheels spend at least 120 days maturing, initially in a fermentation cellar and then in a cooler storage cellar. During the fermentation stage, temperatures of around 19–24°C encourage the process which creates the carbon dioxide responsible for those famous holes.

Once the holes have reached the right size, the cheese is moved into a cooler environment where the process slows and the flavour continues to develop.

And the cheesemakers don't simply leave the wheels sitting there.

Each wheel is regularly checked and turned. According to the Emmentaler organisation, the wheels are turned once a week during maturation, while the cheesemakers keep a close eye on their development.

There are different levels of maturity, too.

A young Emmentaler has a mild, nutty flavour. As it ages, the flavour becomes stronger and more pronounced. Emmentaler AOP is sold as mild after at least four months, mature from eight months and extra-mature after twelve months or more.

So even here, there is more variation than you might expect from a cheese we tend to regard as simply "the one with the holes".

The Remarkable Size of an Emmental Cheese Wheel

One of the things that really strikes you when you see traditional Emmental being made is the sheer scale of it.

These are not little rounds of cheese that you could comfortably carry under one arm.

The wheels can be up to a metre across and weigh as much as 120kg.

It is difficult to appreciate just how much milk is required to make one until you see the size of the finished product.

Switzerland Tourism says that around 12 litres of milk are required to make a single kilogram of Emmentaler.

So when you are looking at one of those great golden wheels, you are looking at the concentrated result of an extraordinary amount of milk, time, skill and patience.

From the Emmental to the Rest of the World

There is something rather charming about the fact that this cheese began as a local product of one Swiss valley and ended up becoming famous all over the world.

It has also become one of the cheeses most closely associated with Switzerland itself.

But there is an important distinction between genuine Emmentaler AOP and the many cheeses produced elsewhere that look a bit like it.

The AOP designation protects the origin and production of the traditional cheese. Genuine Emmentaler AOP carries the appropriate dairy mark and cheese dairy number, allowing the wheel to be traced back to its place of production.

That seems entirely appropriate.

Because once you have visited the Emmental and seen how much tradition goes into making this extraordinary cheese, you begin to understand why the Swiss are rather protective of it.

A Taste of the Emmental

Of course, eventually all this talk of cheese has to come down to the important business of eating it.

And Emmental is an extremely versatile cheese.

Young Emmentaler is mild, slightly sweet and nutty, while older versions become considerably stronger and more full-flavoured. It works beautifully on a cheeseboard, but it is equally at home melted into a dish or used in some of the classic foods of Switzerland.

But for me, the pleasure of visiting the Emmental was not simply about eating the cheese.

It was about understanding where it came from.

We spend an awful lot of time travelling around the world looking at famous sights, but sometimes the most interesting discoveries are rather more modest.

A cheese dairy in a beautiful Swiss valley may not have the instant drama of the Matterhorn or the grandeur of St Moritz.

But when you stand there looking at an enormous wheel of Emmental and realise that the basic principles behind it have been passed down for centuries, it is difficult not to feel that you are looking at a small piece of Switzerland's history.

And, naturally, it tastes rather good too.

Emmental cheese, known for its characteristic large holes and distinct flavour, is a traditional Swiss cheese with a rich history. It originates from the Emme Valley (Emmental) in the Canton of Bern, Switzerland, dating back to the early 13th century. The cheese was first mentioned in historical documents in 1293, but its unique recipe and production techniques were likely developed much earlier.

The large holes in Emmental cheese, often referred to as 'eyes', are created by the release of gases by bacteria used during the fermentation process. These bacteria consume the lactic acid in the cheese and release carbon dioxide gas, which forms the holes. The size and number of the holes are considered a sign of quality and are carefully regulated during the cheese-making process.

Emmental is made from raw cow's milk and has a hard, yellowish-golden rind. The cheese is known for its mild, slightly nutty, and buttery flavor, which becomes more pronounced as it ages. Traditionally, it is produced in large wheels that can weigh up to 130 kilograms (almost 300 pounds).

The cheese is deeply ingrained in Swiss culture and cuisine, often used in dishes like fondue and raclette. It's also popular internationally, influencing the production of similar cheeses in various countries.

Frequently Asked Questions About Emmental Cheese

What is Emmental cheese?

Emmental is a traditional Swiss cheese named after the Emme Valley in the canton of Bern. It is famous around the world for its large holes, mild nutty flavour and distinctive large wheels.

Where does Emmental cheese come from?

Emmental cheese comes from the Emmental region of Switzerland, in the canton of Bern. The cheese takes its name from the Emme Valley, and production in the region dates back many centuries.

Why does Emmental cheese have holes?

The famous holes, or "eyes", are created during the fermentation and maturation of the cheese. Bacteria produce carbon dioxide during propionic acid fermentation, and the gas becomes trapped inside the developing cheese, creating the characteristic holes.

How is Emmental cheese made?

Traditional Emmentaler is made from untreated raw cow's milk. Bacterial cultures and rennet are added to the milk before the curds are cut, pressed and placed in a brine bath. The cheese then matures in controlled conditions, developing its characteristic flavour and holes.

Is Emmental cheese the same as Swiss cheese?

Not exactly. Outside Switzerland, "Swiss cheese" is often used as a general term for a hole-filled cheese similar to Emmental. Emmentaler is the original Swiss cheese associated with the Emmental region and is one of the world's best-known Swiss cheeses.

How old is Emmental cheese?

Emmental cheese has a very long history. Switzerland Tourism traces its production in the Emmental region back to the 13th century, while the Emmentaler organisation records written evidence of the cheese from the 16th century.

What does Emmental cheese taste like?

Emmental has a mild, slightly sweet and nutty flavour when young, becoming more pronounced and aromatic as it ages. Its characteristic flavour develops during the fermentation and maturation process.

Is Emmental cheese made from raw milk?

Traditional Emmentaler AOP is made from untreated raw cow's milk. The cows are fed grass and hay rather than silage, and the fresh milk is delivered rapidly to the cheese dairy for processing.

How big is an Emmental cheese wheel?

Traditional Emmentaler wheels are enormous. They can measure around 80 to 100 centimetres across and weigh approximately 75 to 100 kilograms.

Can you visit an Emmental cheese dairy in Switzerland?

Yes. The Emmentaler Visitor Centre in the Emmental region allows visitors to learn about the history and production of the cheese, with cheese-making demonstrations and opportunities to taste the finished product. Your visit provides a first-hand look at this important part of Swiss food culture.