Fondue on the Lake: Floating Supper on the Waters of Brienz
It was an evening to remember. We’d had a journey to Heathrow – a flight from the UK – followed by a train journey through Switzerland. We checked in at the hotel in Interlaken, had a quick wash and brush-up, and then gone out to our early evening dinner appointment.
All a bit tiring. A bit too much of a rush. But then, suddenly, we were out in the middle of a very calm and beautiful lake enjoying one of the most memorable suppers it’s been my pleasure to enjoy for a long time.
There are many ways of enjoying a traditional Swiss cheese fondue, but few match the novelty of eating one aboard a raft on the water.
The visit began with a bus ride from Interlaken to Bönigen, on the shore of Lake Brienz, where we boarded a specially equipped raft. Wrapped in warm blankets, we settled down to a pot of melted cheese, bread for dipping and a glass of wine, while our guide took care of the paddling.
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Out on the Mirror of Lake Brienz
There is an almost monastic quiet that descends upon the Swiss lakes once dusk begins to smudge the edges of the mountains. Lake Brienz, renowned for its brilliant turquoise hue by day, turns into a deep, fathomless sheet of slate grey by twilight.
Stepping off the pebble strand at Bönigen onto a timber raft might sound like a recipe for wet trousers and chilly toes, but the Swiss have an uncanny genius for turning potentially rugged outdoor adventures into something quietly luxurious. We were wrapped in fleece blankets, seated comfortably around a sturdy wooden table with a bubbling caquelon securely anchored in the centre.
Our skipper from Outdoor Switzerland took to the stern with steady, rhythmic paddle strokes, gently nudging our floating dining room out away from the lights of the shoreline. The only sounds were the soft slap of water against timber and the hiss of the gas burner keeping our supper molten.
The Ritual of the Long Fork
Swiss fondue is rarely just a meal; it is a prolonged, convivial ritual. A rich, steaming blend of Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois, laced with enough dry white wine and a hint of garlic and kirsch to give it that unmistakable sharpness, bubbled merrily away.
Dipping a cube of crusty bread into that steaming pot, twirling the long fork in a neat figure-of-eight to coat it properly before negotiating the journey to your mouth without losing the prize to the depths of the pot, requires just enough concentration to banish whatever airport fatigue you carried across the Channel. Pair that with a chilled glass of crisp Swiss Fendant, and the rush of Heathrow baggage carousels and rail connections melted away entirely.
(Check out our special post on staying in Interlaken here)
Between dips, you look up: the towering silhouette of the Bernese Oberland peaks framing the sky, a faint crescent moon reflecting in the ripple of our wake, and the crisp, clean alpine air sharpening both appetite and spirits.
A Base for Grand Alpine Adventures
Drifting in the dark across Lake Brienz was the most restorative introduction to Interlaken imaginable. Located neatly between two great bodies of water - Thun on one flank, Brienz on the other - it serves as the quintessential springboard for exploring the Swiss heartland.
Having arrived so seamlessly using the Swiss Travel Pass, which makes hopping between mainline trains, post buses, and lake ferries as effortless as flashing a single ticket, we had felt the pace of travel slow right down the moment we crossed the border. But it wasn't until we were bobbing gently beneath the alpine twilight with cheese on our chins that the holiday truly began.
Fact Box & Useful Links
The Experience: The Cheese Fondue Float is run by Outdoor Switzerland and departs from Bönigen on Lake Brienz. Warm clothing is recommended, though cosy blankets are supplied on board.
The Destination: For regional information, walks, and local transport links around the lakes and mountains, visit Interlaken Tourism.
Getting Around: The Swiss Travel Pass offers unlimited travel across the rail, bus, and boat network throughout Switzerland.
Planning Your Trip: For nationwide travel ideas, scenic itineraries, and seasonal highlights, head to Switzerland Tourism.
