The Six Best Walks in the Isles of Scilly
- Martin Hesp
- 3 days ago
- 7 min read
There is no finer walking in Britain than in the Isles of Scilly. Floating 28 miles off the tip of Cornwall, this granite archipelago offers something almost impossible to find elsewhere: an entire world untamed by heavy traffic, where the air is as clean as any in Europe, and where the rhythmic crash of big green Atlantic waves is never more than a short stroll away.
Whether you are popping over on a day return or settling in for a fortnight, each of the five inhabited islands—plus the mystical off-isle of Gugh—boasts a coastal path that begs to be hiked. On a small island, you can’t get lost: keep the sea on one side, and you will eventually end up back where you started, preferably within sight of a welcoming pub.
🏨 Planning a walking holiday in the Isles of Scilly?
Accommodation is limited and fills up surprisingly quickly, especially from spring onwards. Check what's available before you travel.
Here is my curated guide to the six absolute best walks across the Scillonian archipelago.
1. St Agnes: Granite Monsters, Shipwrecks, and the Edge of the World
Distance: ~4 miles (plus optional loop on Gugh)
Terrain: Fine coastal path, rocky headlands, and quiet lanes.
St Agnes has a way of greeting you at Porth Conger quay with a gentle nod that says: "Right, you’ve done the difficult bit getting here—now see all I have to offer."
From the quay, head up past the Turk’s Head pub—saving that pint for the finish line—and drop down to the dramatic sandbar connecting St Agnes to its uninhabited twin, Gugh. If the tide is out, cross over to explore Obadiah’s Barrow and the nine-foot Old Man of Gugh standing stone. Just keep an eye on the water; getting cut off by the tide is an amateur mistake, though local legend insists it happens.
Back on St Agnes, weave south along the shore to Beady Pool, where a 17th-century wreck spilled thousands of trade beads into the granite grit. Round the southern cape past Horse Point—a magnificent, storm-lashed corner of heaven—to reach St Warna’s Cove, named for the patron saint of shipwrecks who allegedly arrived here from Ireland in a wicker coracle.
Heading north along the west coast, you’ll encounter wind-sculpted granite tors like the Nag’s Head (looking like a cross between a horse and an angel), the famous Troy Town Maze laid out by a bored lighthouse keeper in 1729, and the old lifeboat house in Periglis Cove. From here, cut inland past the grand old lighthouse and Britain's smallest school before coasting down to the quay for that well-earned pint.
2. St Mary’s Northern Circular: Ancient Tombs and Oceanic Pines
Distance: ~6 miles
Terrain: Undulating coastal footpaths, sandy tracks, and quiet interior lanes.
While St Mary’s boasts a grand 12-mile outer circuit, this northern loop is the absolute jewel of the island. It gathers everything Scillonian into a single afternoon: white sand beaches, prehistoric monuments, and windswept maritime pine forests.
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Starting in Hugh Town, head past Town Beach and down into Porthmellon, where the island’s famous gig racing boats are housed. Pass the panoramic terraces of Juliet’s Garden and pick up the northern coast path towards Halangy Down. Here, the remarkably preserved ruins of an Iron Age village rest beneath Bant’s Carn, a monumental Stone Age chamber tomb.
Rounding the northern cape, the path dips into a sublime woodland of dark Scotch pines above Bar Point, offering sweeping views across the roadstead to Tresco and St Martin’s. Farther along at Helvear Down, you’ll pass the twin chambered tombs of Innisidgen before reaching the quiet crescent of Watermill Cove.
After taking in the lonely beauty of Pelistry Bay, turn inland up Pelistry Lane, weaving through the lush shelter of Holy Vale and Rocky Hill to complete a smooth return circuit back to Hugh Town.
3. Tresco: Sub-Tropical Gardens and Civil War Castles
Distance: ~6 miles
Terrain: Coastal paths, grassy downs, and garden trails.
Tresco often feels less like an English island and more like a tropical paradise that drifted north into the Atlantic. Thanks to Augustus Smith—the Victorian reformer who leased the island in 1834—Tresco is home to the world-famous Abbey Gardens, where exotic flora flourishes under the Gulf Stream.
Stepping off the boat at Carn Near, track north past Abbey Pool, keeping an eye out for the ruinous ramparts at Blockhouse Point. These fortifications overlook Old Grimsby and offer vast across-water views towards St Martin's.
Further north, the path skirts the wild shoreline to Cromwell’s Castle, an imposing Roundhead fortress built in 1651 to guard the narrow passage between Tresco and Bryher. Above it stand the high ruins of King Charles’ Castle.
After exploring the wild heather downs of the far north, loop back along the western shore towards New Grimsby, finishing with a slow meander through the dreamy, sub-tropical paths of the Abbey Gardens.
4. St Martin’s: Caribbean Sands and the Scarlet Daymark
Distance: ~5 miles
Terrain: Soft dune paths, sandy beaches, and open granite downs.
Few islands in Europe can compete with the pure, dazzling brilliance of St Martin’s coastlines. The sand here is so exceptionally fine and white that in centuries past it was gathered up and exported to dry the ink on scribes' parchment.
Starting from Higher Town Quay, follow the dune-lined path past Little Arthur Farm and curve around the blindingly white crescent of English Island Point. The landscape quickly shifts from soft shorelines to rugged, heather-clad headlands as you approach the Daymark—a striking 45-foot red-and-white striped beacon built in 1683.
From the beacon, strike west along the wild northern coast above Bread and Cheese Cove and Wine Cove until you hit the great sweeping arch of Great Bay.
Leaving the northern coast, cross south towards the island's central ridge lane. This elevated track offers views across the entire archipelago as you descend towards Lower Town, where a stop at the Seven Stones pub provides the perfect vantage point before doubling back along the sheltered southern shore.
5. Bryher: Wild Atlantic Crag Meets Sub-Tropical Calm
Distance: ~4.5 miles
Terrain: Rugged coastal tracks, sandy coves, and short, steep hill climbs.
Bryher is an island of fierce, dramatic contrasts. On its eastern shore, sheltered waters lap gently against quiet beaches; on its western flank, the full, unbridled power of the Atlantic hammers against jagged granite cliffs.
Heading clockwise from the landing quay, pass Veronica Farm towards the southern tip at Rushy Bay, one of the most picturesque bathing spots in the islands. Rounding Heathy Hill, the path turns north along Great Porth, passing the reed-beds of Great Pool—a haven for migratory birdwatchers.
Take the brief detour up Gweal Hill for a panorama across the uninhabited off-isles, before marching into the wild northern realm of Hell Bay. Here, even on gentle summer days, the ocean swell thunders into the rocky chasm with spectacular force.
Round the wave-beaten headland of Shipmanhead Down before turning south, passing the Fraggle Rock pub as you return to Church Quay.
6. St Mary’s Garrison & South-West Cape: Bastions and Big Ocean Views
Distance: ~3.5 miles
Terrain: Well-paved military paths, gentle gradients, and grassy headlands.
For those short on time or stepping off the Scillonian ferry for a day trip, this short circuit packed into St Mary’s south-western corner delivers maximum Scillonian charm with minimal fuss.
Starting right in the heart of Hugh Town, pass through the imposing 16th-century stone archway of The Garrison. The perimeter walk around this massive fortification takes you along stone curtain walls and gun batteries that have stood guard over the harbour since the days of Elizabeth I and the English Civil War.
After completing the Garrison circuit, drop down into the sheltered sands of Porthcressa Beach. Pick up the coastal path as it climbs out of the bay and tracks around the high granite headland towards Peninnis Head.
This southern tip of St Mary’s is famous for its massive, weather-worn granite formations—including the Pulpit Rock—and its distinctive metal lighthouse. From Peninnis, the track turns gently back towards town, offering fine views over Old Town Bay before delivering you neatly back to the harbour.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best island for walking in the Isles of Scilly?
Each island has its own character. St Mary's offers the greatest variety of routes and historic sites, Tresco combines coastal walks with its famous Abbey Garden, Bryher is wonderfully wild, St Martin's has spectacular white-sand beaches, and St Agnes feels delightfully remote. There really isn't a bad choice.
How long do you need to explore the Isles of Scilly on foot?
A long weekend allows you to discover St Mary's and perhaps one or two of the off-islands. For walkers, however, five to seven days is ideal, giving you enough time to enjoy each island at a relaxed pace and travel between them by boat.
Are the walks in the Isles of Scilly difficult?
Most walks are moderate rather than strenuous. The islands have no mountains, but the coastal paths can be uneven in places, with occasional short climbs over granite headlands. Good walking shoes are recommended.
When is the best time to visit the Isles of Scilly?
Late spring and early summer are particularly beautiful, with wildflowers in bloom and generally mild weather. September is another excellent month, when the sea is warm, visitor numbers are lower and the islands enjoy some of their finest sunshine.
Can you visit all the Isles of Scilly in one trip?
Yes. Regular inter-island boats connect the five inhabited islands during the season, making it easy to explore St Mary's, Tresco, Bryher, St Martin's and St Agnes over several days.
Do you need to book accommodation in advance?
Absolutely. Accommodation in the Isles of Scilly is limited and extremely popular, especially from May to September. Booking well in advance is highly recommended if you're planning a walking holiday.
Planning Your Stay: A quick word of advice—the Isles of Scilly have very limited accommodation, and iconic spots sell out many months in advance. While a few places can be booked on platforms like [Booking.com], many local cottages and B&Bs are booked directly through island agencies. If you're planning a walking trip, book your stay as early as possible.
