Pendeenah: A Luxury Holiday House in Polzeath, North Cornwall
Updated: Aug 17
There’ll be plenty of people reading this who live in older houses - which, in the mainly rural South West, might well mean homes with thick walls, smaller windows, and so on. Before modern wonders like double glazing and thermal insulation came along, dwelling spaces had to keep folk warm and dry any way they could, which basically meant shutting out the great outdoors.
What the builders of yesteryear swapped to gain cosiness, however, was light. Especially in the depths of winter.
I live in such a place. The downstairs interior of our old cottage does a good job of pretending to be a cave.
So imagine how delighted my wife and I were to spend a few days in Pendeenah, a remarkably modern holiday house in Polzeath, where the upper half of the building seemed to have been designed specifically to catch the winter light and make the most of the extraordinary Cornish coastline.
Pendeenah: a different kind of holiday house in Polzeath
Pendeenah is an upside-down house - and once you've seen it, the idea makes perfect sense.
Why put the bedrooms upstairs, where you spend much of your time asleep, when you could put the living areas up there instead and give them the best possible views?
So that's what has happened here.
The bedrooms and bathrooms are downstairs while the kitchen, dining and living spaces occupy the upper part of the house. The result is a wonderfully light interior, with large windows looking towards the coast.
And Pendeenah does this better than any other house I have stayed in.
The property sleeps 11, has five bedrooms and four bathrooms making it particularly suitable for families or groups wanting to share a luxury holiday house on the North Cornwall coast. It also has direct gated access to the South West Coast Path and Polzeath beach is within easy reach.
The design is clever, but it doesn't sacrifice comfort for cleverness.
There are walk-in showers, a huge Victorian-style bath, a superb kitchen and plenty of space for people to spread out. There's also a snug for children and a large terrace where, in better weather, the view must be even more spectacular than it was during our winter stay.
This is the sort of place where the accommodation itself becomes part of the holiday.
A luxury self-catering stay on the North Cornwall coast
Pendeenah is part of the Latitude50 collection of holiday properties, a locally based company specialising in high-quality self-catering accommodation around Polzeath, Rock, Daymer Bay and Port Isaac.
The company has been concentrating on this relatively small stretch of North Cornwall for decades, which is one of the things I like about its approach. This isn't a giant holiday business offering cottages scattered all over Britain. It is focused on one particularly beautiful corner of the Cornish coast.
And there is plenty of choice.
Planning a stay in Polzeath?
If Pendeenah isn't available for your dates, there are plenty of other hotels, holiday cottages and self-catering properties around Polzeath and the wider North Cornwall coast. You can compare accommodation and prices below.
Latitude50's present collection includes everything from smaller coastal properties to substantial houses designed for families and groups, with Polzeath, Rock, Daymer Bay and Port Isaac forming the heart of its North Cornwall portfolio.
Pendeenah is towards the luxurious end of that spectrum - but sharing a large holiday house can make this kind of accommodation rather more attainable than the word "luxury" might suggest.
It is certainly a different proposition from booking a conventional hotel room.
You have the space of a house, the freedom to cook when you want, several living areas and, most importantly in a place like Polzeath, the feeling that the coast is right outside the door.
What to do in Polzeath in winter
So much for the house. But what do you actually do in Polzeath in the middle of winter?
The answer is surprisingly simple.
You walk.
The area is rich in fabulous coastal paths and, for me, one of the finest walks starts from Polzeath and heads around Pentire Point and The Rumps.
Pentire Point is the massive headland which guards the mouth of the River Camel, and from Pendeenah you can look towards this dramatic piece of coastline.
With its easterly neighbour, The Rumps, the two-pronged promontory makes an ideal area for coastal walking because it lends itself to a perfectly sensible circular hike - something that isn't always easy to find beside the sea.
From the lofty tip of Pentire Point you get spectacular elevated views of the Camel and Padstow Bay.
Between Pentire and Stepper Point on the other side of the estuary there is naught but current, turbulence and waves - and these three merry maidens like nothing better than creating the watery hell of the infamous Doom Bar.
Just about all the walk is on National Trust land.
And thank God for that.
SEE OUR SPECIAL PLACES TO STAY POST ABOUT THE LIZARD AND SOUTH CORNWALL
In 1936 the entire headland was divided into building plots and put up for sale. Protestors organised themselves at both local and national level and eventually raised enough money to buy the estate and give it to the nation.
When you know that story and walk across the headland today, you almost feel like weeping with gratitude.
The Rumps, Lawrence Binyon and a remarkable piece of Cornish history
You might also feel like shedding a tear when you see the memorial to Lawrence Binyon up on the headland.
The plaque marks the place where he wrote For The Fallen - the poem containing the famous words about those who "shall not grow old".
The memorial has a wonderful setting, with The Rumps forming the backdrop.
The people of the Iron Age also recognised the defensive potential of this peninsula and built a great fort, complete with ramparts and ditches, some of which can still be seen.
It is one of those places where the scenery is impressive enough without any history being added to it - but knowing what happened here makes the walk even more rewarding.
A walk to the beach - and an unexpected meeting
On our own walk we eventually headed east along the cliff edge, past Com Head, before taking tracks down towards the beach.
The tide was out, which proved rather fortunate because it allowed me to meet one of the more unusual characters I have encountered on a Cornish beach.
Bill Bartlett is a Polzeath historian and "Jungian Beach Artist" who creates intricate and ephemeral beach mandalas on a vast scale.
He happened to be working on one of his designs as we finished our walk, so I stopped for what turned out to be a fascinating chat.
His creations are made to be temporary. The tide comes in and wipes them away.
Indeed, the design I saw that morning had disappeared within about half an hour.
There is something particularly appropriate about that in Cornwall: a huge work of art created on the beach, admired for a few minutes and then returned to the sea.
From Polzeath to Padstow
Another day we walked along the estuary towards the Rock ferry and crossed over to Padstow for lunch.
This is another great advantage of staying in this part of North Cornwall. You can make the holiday as active or as lazy as you like.
Follow the South West Coast Path towards Rock when the tide is in, or, when conditions allow, make use of the wide sands around Daymer Bay.
There is also the chance to make a small detour to St Enodoc Church at Trebetherick, where John Betjeman is buried beneath the churchyard turf.
And then there is Padstow.
I found it much more digestible in January than in July or August, when the crowds can make the place feel rather different.
In winter there is time to wander, find a table and actually look at the harbour rather than spending your time dodging other visitors.
That, for me, is one of the great pleasures of a winter stay in North Cornwall.
SEE OUR POST ABOUT GREAT PLACES TO STAY IN WEST CORNWALL
Why stay in Polzeath?
Polzeath is obviously a very different proposition in summer, when the beach is busy and the area becomes one of North Cornwall's most popular holiday destinations.
But winter reveals another side of it.
The beach is still there. The coast path is still there. The cliffs, headlands and Atlantic surf are still there.
And if the weather turns rough, you have the rather good option of retreating to somewhere like Pendeenah, sitting in a comfortable chair in that remarkable upper living space and watching the weather move across the sea.
A winter storm outside a house with huge windows and a good heating system can be rather more enjoyable than a winter storm when you're standing underneath it.
That is perhaps the great attraction of a place like Pendeenah.
It isn't simply somewhere to sleep while you explore Cornwall.
The house, the views, the coast and the landscape all become part of the experience.
SEE OUR SPECIAL CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE
Pendeenah and places to stay in North Cornwall
For anyone looking for a luxury self-catering holiday in Polzeath, Pendeenah is an impressive option - particularly for larger families or groups who want plenty of space and easy access to the beach and South West Coast Path.
Latitude50 now has a substantial collection of properties across Polzeath and the neighbouring communities of Rock, Daymer Bay and Port Isaac, so Pendeenah is just one possibility for anyone planning a North Cornwall coastal escape.
For me, though, what made Pendeenah memorable was not simply the luxury.
It was that extraordinary sensation of light.
After years of living in a Westcountry cottage that can occasionally resemble a cave, spending a few winter days in a house designed to pull the landscape and daylight indoors was quite an experience.
And when the sea is pounding the cliffs outside, there's something rather wonderful about being able to enjoy the drama from the warmth and comfort of your own holiday home.
Exploring Polzeath: Coastal Walks and Scenic Views
So much for the house, but what do you do in a place like Polzeath in the middle of winter? You probably don’t need me to tell you the area is rich in fabulous walks, the very best of these being the amazing hike around Pentire Point and The Rumps…
Coastal Hiking at Pentire Point and The Rumps
Pentire Point is the massive headland which guards the mouth of the River Camel - and which you can view from the windows of Pendeenah. With its easterly neighbour, The Rumps, this two-pronged promontory makes an ideal area for coastal walking because it lends itself to a perfectly sensible circular hike, which is rare by the seaside.
From the lofty tip of Pentire Point you are treated to spectacular elevated views of the seaborne Camel and Padstow Bay. Between Pentire and Stepper Point on the other side of the estuary, there is naught but current, turbulence and waves and these three merry maidens like nothing better than to create the watery hell of the infamous Doom Bar.
Just about all the walk is on National Trust land. The organisation owns large stretches of coastal Cornwall. Thank God because, in 1936, the entire headland was divided into building plots and up for sale. Some people, though, couldn’t bear the idea of one of Cornwall’s most handsome headlands being covered with bungalows - protestors organised themselves at both local and national level and raised enough money to buy the entire estate and give it to the nation. When you know this story and walk the walk, you almost feel like weeping with gratitude.
Historical Reflections: Lawrence Binyon and Iron Age Forts
You might also feel like shedding a tear when you see the memorial to Lawrence Binyon up at the top of the headland. The plaque is there to mark the place where he wrote For The Fallen (“They shall not grow old, as we that are left to grow old…”) - a poem that has sunk deep into the nation’s consciousness and recited at every Remembrance Day event.
Read the words on the plaque and you’ll also admire the backdrop of The Rumps, a sort of twin headland located a mile north-east of Pentire. The people of the Iron Age recognised this peninsula’s excellent defensive potential and built a great fort with all sorts of ramparts and ditches, some of which can still be seen.
VISIT OUR SPECIAL SOUTH WEST COAST PATH PAGE
A Serendipitous Encounter: Beach Art and Local History
Having explored the area and admired the neighbouring rocky, conical island called The Mouls, we rejoined the coast path to head east along the cliff edge - past Com Head - to a junction of tracks above Pengirt Cove. From there a turn to the right took us down through the fields past the National Trust farm, to the beach thanks, which we were able to access direct from the coast path thanks to the fact the tide was out.
Which is relevent because the low tide allowed me to meet a most remarkable man. Bill Bartlett is a Polzeath historian and a “Jungian Beach Artist” who creates intricate and ephemeral beach mandalas on a vast scale. He happened to be working on one of his intricate designs as we finished our walk, so I stopped for what turned out to be a pleasant and interesting chat.
A website (www.jungbythesea.co.uk) explains that the… “immersive approach to beach art involves the practice of drawing within the coastal landscape, working with the tide, light and weather.”
Bill has a particular interest in the potential of beach-art to unlock personal insights and enhance self-awareness… “I believe there’s immense value in exploring the unconscious mind through the simple act of drawing on the beach.”
I found it all fascinating and was certainly impressed by the design Bill had created that morning - a beautiful motif that was about to be eaten up by the incoming tide. Which is just about as ephemeral as it gets - the whole lot was gone in half-hour - but you can see examples of his work on Instagram - search for billys_beachart.
A Day Trip to Padstow: Exploring the Local Area
On another day last week, we walked up the estuary to the Rock ferry, which took us across to Padstow for a spot of lunch. This is a lovely gentle hike which you can do by following the South West Coast Path (located just 100 metres from Pendeenah) all the way to Rock if the tide is in, or by walking across the wide acres of sand direct from Daymer Bay if it’s out. The advantage of the former is that you can make a small detour to see John Betjeman’s grave at St. Enodoc Church, just up at Trebetherick, tucked under the golf course. The advantage of the low tide route is that it’s a lot shorter and you don’t have to worry about flying golf balls.
I found Padstow much more digestible in January than, say, July or August when you can barely move in the place. Last week only a handful of visitors were milling around and some of the eateries were staging amazing value mid-winter luncheon offers (£26 for three-courses anyone?).
Midwinter Breaks in Cornwall: Value and Comfort
A midwinter break can represent some of the best vacation value around, especially if, like us, you get lucky with the weather. But even if a storm, like the one predicted for this weekend, had hit during our stay, we’d have been quite happy sitting in a comfy chair up in Pendeenah’s room full of light admiring the coastal drama of it all.
Explore More with Latitude50 Holiday Homes
With houses across Daymer Bay, Polzeath, Port Isaac and Rock – ranging from 1 bedroom boltholes to 10 bedroom dream houses – there is something to suit all. Latitude50 Website
FAQ: Staying at Pendeenah in Polzeath
Where is Pendeenah holiday house?
Pendeenah is in Polzeath, on the North Cornwall coast, close to Polzeath beach and the South West Coast Path. Its position makes it particularly convenient for exploring the coastline around Pentire, The Rumps, Rock and Daymer Bay.
How many people can stay at Pendeenah?
Pendeenah sleeps up to 11 people and has five bedrooms and four bathrooms, making it particularly suitable for families or groups holidaying together.
Is Pendeenah close to Polzeath beach?
Yes. The house has direct gated access towards the South West Coast Path and Polzeath beach is within easy walking distance.
What is there to do around Polzeath?
There are excellent coastal walks around Pentire Point and The Rumps, while Rock, Daymer Bay, St Enodoc and Padstow are all within easy reach. The South West Coast Path provides plenty of opportunities for exploring the North Cornwall coastline.
Is Polzeath a good place to visit in winter?
Yes. Winter is much quieter than the summer season, but the beach, coastal paths and spectacular scenery remain. A winter stay also gives you the chance to experience North Cornwall without the crowds that arrive during the main holiday season.
Is Pendeenah suitable for a walking holiday?
Very much so. Its position close to the South West Coast Path makes it a particularly good base for exploring the coastal landscape around Polzeath, Pentire and The Rumps.
What makes Pendeenah different from a conventional holiday cottage?
It is an upside-down house, with the bedrooms downstairs and the main living areas upstairs. This allows the kitchen, dining and sitting areas to make the most of the natural light and views towards the coast.
