A potato field in Hokkaido, Japan Everything about Japan is fascinating. In some ways it is more British than Britain - in others it is more alien than Mars. And nowadays this most foreign of lands is a great deal more amenable and less daunting than you may think. In this article we are concentrating on just one corner of the Japanese archipelago, having recently spent the best part of a week in the country’s northern isle, Hokkaido. It is vast, amazingly scenic, and as friendly a place as you can imagine. Indeed, I stayed in what is probably the most visitor-friendly part of the mountainous and forested island - Niseko Village is all about skiing and snow-boarding so is well used to catering for an international clientele. Volcanic steaming lake in Hokkaido That is thanks partly to the fact that its slopes are smothered by as much as 50 feet of snowfall each year - and winter-sports fans tell me it is the best powder snow in the world. But at other times of the year the area offers a hugely scenic refuge for anyone, say, who has spent time in the crazy urban world of Tokyo. I stayed in a luxurious town house which is part of the YTL Hotel company’s Green Leaf Hotel complex (all part of the larger Niseko Village resort) situated on a shoulder of a mountain some 2000 feet above sea-level. The large, well-appointed three-bedroomed house was all en suite and very comfortable and spacious indeed. Japan's Untamed Frontier: The Unique Geography of Hokkaido Niseko is a genuine rural refuge, far from the frenetic intensity of urban Japan. It really does offer the visitor the easiest and most scenic introductions to the country. Hotel staff were keen for me to try one of their new e-bikes which made cycling around the undulating countryside easy and pleasurable. With a handful of other journalists I spent a couple of days exploring the high plateau between the dormant conical volcanoes, pedalling through forests and visiting hot-springs, lakes and local restaurants to sample local dishes such as udon or soba noodles, which were an inexpensive joy. Two of the main local delicacies will have any English person feeling at home - cheese and potatoes. And no, I had not heard of Japanese cheeses before, or oriental spuds come to that. But both are a big deal in the fertile farmlands which do so well on the volcanic soils of this beautiful region. Trekking Through Primeval Forests and Volcanic Peaks High peaks surround the fields and clear rushing rivers interweave their way through the myriad foothills. At every touch and turn you came across lush crops growing here, harvests occurring there and little farm gate shops everywhere. Apart from potatoes and the occasional herd of milking cows you will come across wide yellow rice paddies, impressive stands of asparagus fern, the sweetest tomatoes imaginable, sweetcorn, aubergines and goodness knows what else. One farmer told me: “Hokkaido is like your Kent - it is the garden of Japan.” As if to prove this, we were invited to the Niseko Village Autumn Food Festival, which was a joy, although I was surprised to see so many stalls run by Europeans and Australians who’d settled in the area to farm organically, presumably as some sort of lifestyle choice given that the area offers first class summer surfing and world class winter-sports. In early-September it was hard to envisage such snowy scenes. The days I spent cycling were hot, which was not a problem for us as we were helped by the tiny electric motors and also able stop at regular intervals at the freshwater springs which are a feature of the area. So famous is this the health-giving water that businesses have set up by the side of some springs creating various products. We visited a tofu-making concern which was so popular that even in this sparsely populated area there were queues. The tofu came in all manner of forms and colours, including a charcoal version. A morsel entitled ‘raindrop-cake’ was another speciality made by a spring-based business. It didn’t taste of anything at all - it was just a clear ball of jelly, or wobbly water. Preserving the Wild Soul of the Northern Wilderness The Japanese seemed to love it. Which is one of the nice things I noticed about Japan - if something is deemed good, then the ever-polite Japanese become very enthusiastic indeed. Go to a cheese-producer near Niseko Village and it will be the other customers, not the owner, who will tell you that the blue cheese was national champion in 2016. Visit the local ice-cream-maker and it will be a customer who’ll insist on grabbing your camera so that he can snap photos of you licking your cornet. They will laugh, smile and bow - and you will laugh, smile and bow right back. Because that is what you do in Japan in an endless dance of courteousness, that I found pleasant rather than wearisome. At least those staying at the Green Leaf Hotel or its town houses - or its large neighbouring Hilton - can retire to the mountainside for a relaxing dinner followed by an even more relaxing dip in the onsen. These communal hot-water baths are to be found all over Japan and are THE thing which locals do on a daily basis. The extremely hot baths are separate for men and women - you just strip right off and pretend you are a boiled lobster for 20 minutes, bubbling gently away watching the shooting stars illuminate the distant conical mountainsides. After 20 minutes of that you wander off to bed feeling more relaxed than you’ve ever felt - certainly a lot more relaxed than those moments when you’ve been watching your rugby team in a hostile ruck. Only one problem has loomed for me since I made this first visit to Japan - it is the instant desire to return and explore further. I shall asking my new friends at YTL Hotels what else I can explore and do next time I visit Hokkaido. FACT FILE Martin was a guest of YTL Hotels. www.skisafari.com Martin flew to Japan with British Airways which has daily services - visit www.britishairways.com Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Hokkaido's Wilderness What makes Hokkaido different from the rest of Japan? Hokkaido accounts for roughly one-fifth of Japan's total landmass but holds only a fraction of its population. Unlike the bustling, historic cities of the main island, Hokkaido is celebrated for its raw, untamed wilderness, featuring expansive national parks, active volcanoes, magnificent primeval forests, and dramatic seasonal shifts that attract outdoor enthusiasts year-round. When is the best time to visit Hokkaido for hiking and nature? While Hokkaido is globally famous for its winter powder snow, the best time for mountain trekking and exploring the forests is from June to September. During the summer and early autumn, the alpine fields burst into blossom, the weather is beautifully mild, and the hiking trails are completely clear of ice. Are there wild bears in the forests of Hokkaido? Yes. Hokkaido is the exclusive home of the Ussuri brown bear (Higuma), which lives deep within the island's mountain ranges and dense forests. When trekking through remote national parks like Shiretoko or Daisetsuzan, hikers are always advised to carry bear bells and follow local safety guidelines to ensure a respectful distance from the wildlife. Once you've saved these updates in Wix, run the URL straight through Google Search Console to get those 4 views moving upwards!

Night time in Ho Chi Min City Few cities on earth assail the senses with the sheer, unbridled energy of Ho Chi Minh City. Formerly known as Saigon, this sprawling southern metropolis is the commercial heartbeat of Vietnam—a place where over nine million residents and a seemingly infinite sea of motorbikes create a mesmerising, non-stop symphony of urban life. To walk the streets of this city with a camera is an exercise in capturing beautiful contradictions. Look in one direction, and you are surrounded by timeless French colonial elegance; look in another, and towering glass skyscrapers pierce the tropical sky. This photo essay is a visual journey through the chaotic charm, hidden corners, and culinary vibrant soul of Saigon. Saigon - or Ho Chi Min City, as it is now known - is a busy place. A crazy place, in some ways. A place that booms and roars and demands your 100 per cent attention night and day. And I loved it. Perhaps because I enjoyed the ultimate refuge in the form of the lavish and opulent Reverie Saigon, which is located in the heart of this magnificent city. Architecture of Empire and Ambition Saigon's architecture tells the dramatic story of its past. The city's wide boulevards still boast magnificent colonial landmarks such as the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica and the Saigon Central Post Office—both constructed in the late 19th century using materials imported directly from France. Yet today, these historic monuments sit in the shadows of ultra-modern engineering marvels like the Bitexco Financial Tower and Landmark 81, which stands as the tallest building in Vietnam and the seventeenth-tallest in the world. It is this rapid vertical evolution that defines the visual landscape of modern Vietnam. It is housed in one of the tallest skyscrapers in all of Vietnam, and our 38th floor suite really did offer the ultimate air-conditioned refuge from the hot and sticky streets far, far below. Not that I had anything against those streets. A few days in Ho Chi Min City is as colourful and exciting as a few days spent anywhere on Earth - and visits to the various markets and street-food emporiums are an absolute must. Hi Chi Min City from the river The Electric Pulse of Saigon's Street Culture The true heart of Ho Chi Minh City isn't found in its museums or high-rise bars, but down on the pavement. The city’s street culture is legendary, centered around bustling local markets like Ben Thanh and the countless roadside food stalls that fill the air with the aromas of sizzling pork, fresh lemongrass, and rich Vietnamese iced coffee. As night falls, the humidity breaks, and the neon lights turn the rain-slicked streets into a cinematic wonderland. It is a photographer's paradise, where every alleyway reveals a hidden cafe, a family-run soup stall, or a quiet moment of calm amidst the urban rush. Confronting History at the War Remnants Museum More sobering is a visit to the Vietnam War Museum. It is not often that I’m rendered speechless, but that is how I felt after learning about some of the horrors of the Vietnam War. Indeed, like many visitors I was in tears - and altogether mystified as to how such horrors could have happened in such a beautiful and happy country. No visit to Ho Chi Minh City is complete without a deeply sobering, reflective walk through the War Remnants Museum in District 3. While the bustling streets outside celebrate Vietnam's fast-moving future, this repository serves as a powerful, unfiltered anchor to the immense human cost of its mid-century conflict. In the sunlit outdoor courtyard, heavy American fighter jets, tanks, and helicopters sit parked like silent ghosts of mechanized warfare. Inside, the atmosphere shifts to a collective, respectful silence. The upper galleries house the deeply moving Requiem exhibition—a collection of battlefield photography captured by international photojournalists who tragically lost their lives during the Indochina War. It is an emotionally heavy experience, but one that offers critical historical context and highlights the remarkable resilience of the local population. The Sensory Whirlwind of Ben Thanh Market Altogether more jolly was a visit to Saigon’s massive central market where they sell everything from silk shirts to sea-cucumbers… To experience the true commercial soul of Saigon, one must dive headfirst into the labyrinth of Ben Thanh Market. Anchoring the absolute heart of District 1 since 1912, this covered municipal market is one of the city's oldest surviving structures and an enduring symbol of local life. Beneath its iconic French colonial bell tower, the building opens up into a vast, sprawling grid of nearly 1,500 individual trading booths. Navigating the tightly packed, narrow aisles is a brilliant sensory overload. The outer edges buzz with vendors selling vibrant fabrics, hand-carved lacquerware, and souvenirs, while the inner wings give way to a bustling wet market packed with exotic tropical fruits, mountains of local spices, and fresh seafood. It is loud, chaotic, and utterly thrilling—the perfect stage for capturing the genuine, everyday interactions of the city. Back in the total luxury of The Reverie there’s time for one final swim in the rooftop pool before chilling out in the massive suite in the skies, before heading off to Ho Chi Min airpot for the Vietnam Airlines Dreamliner flight back to London. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Ho Chi Minh City Is it better to call the city Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City? Both names are widely used. Officially, the city was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1976 following the end of the Vietnam War. However, the historic name "Saigon" remains deeply cherished and is used daily by locals, businesses, and airlines to refer to the central urban districts (specifically District 1). What are the best areas for travel photography in Ho Chi Minh City? For classic architecture, head to District 1 to capture the Saigon Central Post Office, the Opera House, and the City Hall. For vibrant street and documentary photography, the bustling alleys around Ben Thanh Market or the historic Chinese quarter of Cholon (District 5) offer unmatched colour, energy, and local character. When is the best time of year to visit Saigon? The ideal time to visit Ho Chi Minh City is during the dry season, which runs from December to April. During these months, the weather is pleasantly warm with minimal rainfall, making it the perfect climate for exploring the city's extensive outdoor street food markets and walking tours.

Shedbush Farm, a National Trust property in Dorset There are times - like, say, a significant milestone birthday - when you need a special kind of treat. Gathering an extended family together for a celebration means multiple diaries must be calibrated, and that elusive somewhere special must be found and booked. We found somewhere very special indeed. Nestled deep in a tranquil valley just under Golden Cap—the highest point along the entire English Channel coast—lies Shedbush Farm House This beautifully refurbished National Trust holiday property serves as an idyllic base for exploring the dramatic Jurassic Coast of Dorset. I remember visiting Shedbush Farm years ago when it was a little more rustic. The wonderful old thatched farmhouse and its ancient stone outbuildings might have looked picture perfect, but it is located in an environmentally sensitive, Trust-owned area where agricultural practices are tightly controlled. Today, it has been transformed into a luxurious holiday cottage, and we were hugely impressed by the high-quality, sympathetic way in which the Trust has refurbished the place and has recently upgraded the property's infrastructure, which now includes free Wi-Fi supported by BT and a newly installed EV charging station for electric vehicles. So a holiday cottage it now is - and we were hugely impressed by the high quality luxurious way in which the Trust has refurbished the place. A solitary sheep admires the view looking east from Golden Cap However, despite all that manorial-style luxury we still had to leave the place at regular intervals during our long weekend in order to enjoy all those fabulous walks. Of course, you don’t need to be temporarily resident at Shedbush Farm to enjoy them. Climbing Golden Cap: The Highest Peak on the South Coast Views. That's what this place is all about, especially if you walk through the forest above the farm towards Golden Cap. From this angle the famous coastal hill looks like an Alp - perfectly conical so you think the top must be crowned by a small peak. It's not, because the peak stretches in a tiny escarpment toward the sea, but you only find that out once you've climbed the steep footpath to the top. The best walk we did during the weekend was to turn left, or east, here and head down the coast path to the beach at Seatown where there’s a good pub called The Anchor next to the shore. The Smuggling Lore of Seatown and the Chideock Gang Looking west along the Dorset shoreline towards Golden Cap Apparently this area was once a sort of Piccadilly Circus for smugglers and excise-men. Here’s a note from the Rev C.V. Goddard, who was vicar of Chideock (situated just inland and pronounced Chiddick), between 1890-95: “Samuel Bartlett (a churchwarden) told me the particulars of the last cargo run. His father landed it. On arriving off the coast after a fortnight's fog he had to drop the kegs off the coast on the trawling ground where they remained sunk for six months. He brought his ship round from Portland Harbour and picked them up, recovering 120 and losing one. Seatown “The other half they afterwards tried to land east of Seatown but the Coast Guard or Preventive men saw them, the night too was gone and day broke as old Bartlett was shipping ashore. Some of the tackle got hitched, so there was nothing for it but to put to sea and drop them over the side again.” The ‘Chideock Gang’ plied their business in the 18th century, along the remote coast between Seatown and Charmouth. They were led by the enigmatic ‘Colonel’, thought to be a local gentleman. With Golden Cap as a look-out, the gang were fairly safe from arrest as they could see the hated excise-men coming for miles. Check out our South West Coast Path Walks page here Walking Through History: Doghouse Hill and the Chideock Martyrs We were soon admiring the great inland vale around the village of Chideock as we continued east along the coast path up mighty Doghouse Hill. I am told this was traditionally staunch Roman Catholic country and it was from some local big house that the ‘Chideock Martyrs’ were taken. One was a Cornishman from St Austell and after being arrested and taken to London, he and three other unrepentant Catholics were condemned, though they were offered a chance of saving their skins if they converted to Protestantism. They refused and were duly martyred at Dorchester on 4th July, 1594. Maybe this has something to do with the hill being called Doghouse. Perhaps one of the martyrs came from Doghouse Farm just down the hill… Across the high coastal eminences we walked towards Thorncombe Beacon where there’s a real beacon post crowned by a steel brazier. But you soon forget that and everything else when you see the view ahead. It must be one of the finest coastal vistas anywhere – you can see all the way along Chesil Beach to Portland Bill. Far below is Eype Mouth, to which we descended so we could get onto the golden gravel beach and walk along the shore to busy West Bay. This curious resort is so well furnished with eateries of all kinds, it makes a perfect place for lunch. All you have to do next is return from whence you came - either by walking or by catching the regular and rather famous X53 bus service back to Morcombelake. Frequently Asked Questions About Shedbush Farm and Golden Cap Can you stay at Shedbush Farm in Dorset? Yes. Shedbush Farm House is an authenticated 17th-century thatched farmhouse that is actively operated by the National Trust as a luxury holiday rental. The characterful property features exposed low beams, traditional barn doors, and two cosy wood-burning stoves, comfortably sleeping up to six guests across three bedrooms. It is also entirely pet-friendly, welcoming up to two dogs. How do you get to Golden Cap from Shedbush Farm? Golden Cap is directly accessible on foot from the property. Walkers can ascend through the sheltered forest trails immediately above the farm to reach the steep footpath leading to the summit. At 191 metres above sea level, it offers spectacular, panoramic views across the English Channel and the sweeping Jurassic Coastline. What is the history of the Chideock Gang and Seatown? During the 18th century, the remote shoreline stretching between Seatown and Charmouth was a notorious hub for maritime smuggling. Led by an enigmatic local figure known as 'The Colonel,' the infamous 'Chideock Gang' used the towering vantage point of Golden Cap to keep watch for excise-men, hiding illegal cargoes of alcohol and goods in secluded coastal gaps.

They call it the “Friendly Isle”, which is a good start. St Martin is also known as the culinary capital of the Caribbean, which is certainly another bonus. It is also one of the only islands in the world divided by an international border - which at first glance might seem like no great shakes - but which is a fact that brings bonuses of its own. Saint Martin, to name the French half - or Sint Maarten, which is what the Dutch half call it - is a delightful and fascinating island located at an important geographic apex in the Caribbean. This tiny double-kingdom is situated at the north-easterly point where the great chain of Caribbean islands swings south from it’s east to west run, having passed Jamaica, the Dominican Republic and the British Virgin Isles. Beyond St Martin the islands head south to form the chain that’s known as the Windward Isles, which includes Martinique, St Lucia and St Vincent. If you are planning a trip to the island, note that the old paper landing cards handed out on flights have been entirely replaced by a digital system. Every traveler must now complete the official Sint Maarten Digital ED Card (Embarkation/Disembarkation form) online at least 24 hours before departure Sailors certainly know where St Martin is. For many British trans-Atlantic yachtsmen it is the first port of call - one that also happens to be a centrally placed base from where they can explore all corners of the Caribbean. Moreover, it boasts one of the biggest natural harbours on the eastern shores of the Atlantic. So despite being small, this two-nation state punches way above its weight - which somehow makes it all the more ideal as a holiday destination. In fact, I’d recommend it as one of the best introductions to the Caribbean, partly because there is so much going on. And it really is friendly. Unlike some Caribbean locations where you do have to be a bit careful, you can enjoy all parts of St Martin day or night and you will be as safe as you’d be in a British town or city. Because of all the maritime comings and goings, and also because of the twin-nation status, the place is cosmopolitan. Caribbean certainly - but also a blend of European and to some extent American. Also, you can fly direct to St Martin from Europe, which is a boon. We travelled via Amsterdam aboard a KLM jet - an easy enough trip now that Schipol airport has an air-side, inexpensive, “pod-style” hotel where you can get a quick and convenient night’s sleep before continuing to the Caribbean. And talking of that flight, one of the best known things about St Martin is the Princess Juliana International Airport where the planes have to come in at unbelievably low altitudes above Maho Beach. Standing on the sand and feeling a 747’s downdraught in your hair is one of the island’s must-do experiences, albeit a slightly anxious one. Don’t try back-wash-surfing which is what some idiots do when the big planes crank up their engines in readiness for take-off. Clutching a fence while your whole body is flapping like washing on a windy line is not my idea of fun. A Tale of Two Nations: The Unique Division of the Island What is my idea of fun is hiring a car and spending time exploring St Martin. The first thing to say is there’s no need to worry about that international border - as the Dutch and the French are sensible European nations they don’t go in for border checks nowadays. However, despite there being no fence you can tell the difference between the Dutch and French halves. The latter is a little bit less urbanised and… how can I say this? Well, more French. Some parts of the southerly Dutch half are more built-up and perhaps more Americanised, specially the area around Simpson Bay near the airport. This lack of a physical border makes it incredibly easy to explore, which has helped the island experience a massive resurgence. Recent industry data shows that over one million visitors now pour onto the island annually, with stay-over air arrivals seeing double-digit year-on-year growth. We stayed in Dutch St Maarten, but only just. Oyster Pond is a delightful secluded inlet on the far easterly side of the island close to the border. And the Oyster Bay Beach Resort is a large and comfortable high-end complex perched above a coral reef with ocean views and white sand beaches. Our luxurious apartment was huge - bigger than our house - and just one minute’s stroll from that white sand beach. The staff were exceptionally friendly and helpful, the food good, and the place made an altogether perfect base for our week-long adventures around the island. Sun, Sand, and the Caribbean Coastline One of my favourite St Martin areas is just a two minute drive north of Oyster Pond. The Etang au Poissons nature reserve covers 3000 hectares of sea and 150 hectares of land including islets like Petite Clef, Green Cay and Tintamarre. The marshlands of Etang and its neighbour the Salines d’Orient are also part of this protected area and include mangrove swamps which are a nursery for many marine species. Nearby, Orient Bay is one of the Caribbean’s best known beaches, boasting over a mile of palm strewn white sands. North again there’s lovely Cul-de-Sac Bay where you can take the little ferry across to Ilet de Pinel, which is also part of the nature reserve and which also boasts a beautiful beach. We spent a morning out there, snorkelling around the coral reefs and doing a quick hike around the isle during one of the brief rain storms which are always a feature of Caribbean life. The far north of St Martin is wild and hilly, but a road cuts across from Cul-de-Sac on the wilder, rougher, east coast to Grand Case on the west. As does so it passes the smaller French airport where, in order to land, pilots also have to nosedive their aeroplanes at an alarming rate. I suppose if I had to name just one favourite spot on St Martin it would be the village of Grand Case, partly because it has retained an old-fashioned Caribbean authenticity thanks to its clapperboard architecture. Culinary Delights and Island Hospitality But more probably because charming, beach-side Grand Case has the reputation of being the island’s gourmet capital. Many of the restaurants are located in traditional huts built on stilts above the beach. We had a huge Sunday lunch of freshly barbecued chicken and fish that cost us about £5 each - and that included the beer. Indeed, to go to Gand Case and not have the barbecued food would be just about impossible - the alluring aromatic smoke seems to emanate from every wattle and daub house down the street. A night-time stroll along the boulevard is another of St Martin’s must-do moments. The music booms and you squeeze through great throngs of tourists and locals, all having a good time. In the culinary heart of Grand Case, the dining scene is more vibrant than ever. Alongside the smoky local barbecue 'lolos', iconic gourmet beachside spots like Rainbow Café continue to blend Mediterranean flair with Caribbean life, while beloved bistros like Le Cottage remain world-class destinations for classic French gastronomy and expertly paired wine cellars. The capital of French St Martin is Marigot, which you reach by travelling down the west coast from Grand Case. Apart from its marinas it is known for its market which is a lively, colourful, Provence-meets-Caribbean affair. Stalls sell fruit, vegetables, spices, local meats and fresh fish. There are also craft stands where you can buy flavoured rums, including Shrub - a local speciality in which the spirit is flavoured with orange peel. Alternatively you can try Mauby, a local bark-based infusion - but I bet you’ll prefer the Shrub. We dined one night with West Country friends at Le Mini Club - alas now destroyed by the last big hurricane. It used to serve one of the best buffet dinners I’ve eaten anywhere and has fantastic open air views of the marina and harbour area. I knew we were on to a good thing when the maitre d’ told me he’d worked for several years at Taunton’s Castle Hotel under the tutelage of one Gary Rhodes. Despite this recommendation I wasn’t quite expecting the sheer spectacle of the buffet. For under £40 a head (which included ludicrous amounts of wine) you could help yourself to whatever you liked, including as many lobsters as your plate or stomach could hold. Further on down the west coast and we’re back into Dutch Sint Maarten where we can take the long and winding Rue du Sandy Ground around the great natural harbour of Simpson Bay Lagoon. Much of this most easterly section of the island is in private hands so it’s difficult to reach the beach until you turn onto the southern coast. Then the area around Baie Longue towards the airport is the most Americanised with golf courses, condo-developments and high rise hotels. I like Philipsburg, the capital of Dutch St Maarten and the biggest community on the island. It’s a busy, bustling place full of locals going about their business and tourists looking bemused in the Caribbean heat. When the Dutch first arrived in 1631 the sandy strip separating Great Bay from Great Salt Pond was chosen as the site for a settlement. John Philips, a Scotsman, developed much of the town between 1735 and 1746 when the sugar factories began to generate economic growth. He was appointed commander of the island and introduced modern agricultural techniques for the growing of sugar cane, coffee and cotton. So is the name Philipsburg based on its founder, John Philips? Oddly not - though this seems to be of no concern to the million-plus cruise ship passengers who dock here each year and enjoy the town. We had a delicious lunch in one of the many little street-food joints in a side alley just off the main shopping street. My Caribbean jerk chicken cost about £3.50 - four quid if you include the beer. After a hectic afternoon in Philipsburg it was time to retreat to the peace and quiet of the Oyster Bay Beach Resort and a rum punch, followed by a candle-lit dinner down on the white sand beach where all we could hear was the ocean’s roar. A rather romantic way to end a day on what is already a Friendly Isle. Fact File Martin stayed on Dutch St Maarten as a guest of the Oyster Bay Beach Resort where prices for a luxurious large room begin at £90 per night - prices for a spacious fully equipped suite like then one Martin stayed in begin at £300 per night. The resort has two restaurants and many other facilities, such as free snorkelling equipment and beach loungers. Visit www.oysterbaybeachresort.com for more details. To find out more about Dutch St Maarten visit www.st-maarten.com Frequently Asked Questions About St Martin Why is St Martin called the Friendly Isle? St Martin has earned the enduring nickname of the "Friendly Isle" due to the exceptionally warm, welcoming, and hospitable nature of its local population. The island prides itself on its relaxed, community-driven atmosphere, making travelers feel instantly at home across both sides of the territory. What is unique about the border on St Martin? The island is uniquely divided into two separate territories: the French northern side (Saint-Martin) and the Dutch southern side (Sint Maarten). Despite being governed by two distinct European nations, there is no physical border or customs check between them, allowing visitors to travel completely freely between the two cultures. What is the food scene like in St Martin? St Martin is widely regarded as one of the culinary capitals of the Caribbean. The island offers an incredible blend of world-class French fine dining (particularly in the village of Grand Case), traditional Dutch cheeses and spirits, and authentic, smoky Caribbean roadside barbecues known locally as 'lolos.' What are the entry requirements for flying into St Martin? All international air passengers arriving via Princess Juliana International Airport must hold a passport valid for the duration of their stay. Additionally, all travelers must fill out the mandatory, official digital ED Card via the entry.sx portal before flying. The form is completely free, and travelers should avoid third-party copycat sites that attempt to charge a processing fee. Where are the best places to eat in Grand Case, St Martin? Grand Case offers a legendary dining scene split between casual beachfront eateries and high-end French bistros. For authentic Caribbean barbecue, the traditional open-air 'lolos' are a must-visit. For a refined culinary experience, top-rated institutions include Le Cottage for traditional French-Caribbean fusion and the beachfront Rainbow Café for chic, Mediterranean-inspired dining.

The big Marshall amp was pumping out notes with all the boom and volume of an ocean liner’s hooter and for a few seconds a 60-something-year-old lad from Exmoor was bashing it out on the lead guitar like some happy and demented Jimmy Hendrix. No air-guitar this, but the real thing - loud and raucous. And as a bonus I was playing this guitar in the glamorous and historic heart of Vienna. Okay, I was alone and in my hotel suite - but when you tell people you’ve been to Vienna you are almost always faced with the auto-pilot reaction: “Did you go to the opera?” “No, I didn’t,” comes my reply. “But I did play lead guitar at full volume with the help of a great big Marshall amplifier, just like rock stars have. And I did it in the suite I had at a very special new brand of hotels that is rapidly making a name for itself across Europe.” A Stylish Base in the Heart of Vienna If all this sounds a little uncultured of me, then note that I was enjoying a short city break to the capital of Austria and I was there at the invitation of the city tourist board which was introducing journalists to a new programme they’ve called ‘Unrating Vienna’. It is all about encouraging visitors to discover a very different city to the one seen in travelogues. “Unrating Vienna” inspires visitors to go in search of ‘unique experiences’ to be found in the city rather than following the crowds. The email I received said: “The campaign urges visitors to deliberately get lost, enjoy instead of plan and stumble across some unique hidden gems in the process.” A very enjoyable experience it was too. I discovered a city that was vibrant, diverse and full of surprises. Understanding the "Lean Luxury" Hotel Philosophy Like the Ruby Hotel I stayed in, for starters. There are three of these remarkable, funky and inexpensive hotels in the city (and more opening up across Europe all the time, including one in London later this year) and I look forward to staying in them again. Just to explain that guitar... Each suite at the Ruby Lissi Hotel comes with its own big Marshall amplifier and, because every room is sound-proofed to the hilt, you are free to turn up the volume as loud as you like - whether that is as a result of plugging in your smartphone and playing your own music collection or because you have borrowed one of the electric guitars that hang around the walls of the reception area. The Ruby Hotels “Lean Luxury” Concept I am hopeless at playing a guitar, but I enjoyed twanging the strings in the privacy of my own suite. The Ruby Hotels are for the most part (and certainly the ones in Vienna) built into old buildings which have been renovated and each has its own themed and unique decor. They call it “lean luxury” - but it is modernistic, minimalist in places, and hugely enjoyable. I shall seek out the German-owned brand, especially since the price in the very heart of Vienna starts from just under 80 euros a night, which is amazingly good value. So, if I did not queue for hours or book months ahead to go to the opera, what else did I do in Vienna? Well, lots - is the answer. We filled our three days from morning, noon, until very late at night. We walked and walked though the charming, stately streets and down hillsides cloaked in vineyards. We cycled through vast, green, wood-lined parks and along canal-sides. We even spent a morning aboard an electric powered launch which I somehow managed to skipper down a popular, but peaceful, stretch of the old Danube (as opposed to the newly realigned Danube which is busy and full of terrifyingly large shipping). READ MORE abkout Vienna's amazing food scene here We even joined the throngs of Viennese locals who were swimming in the old river and enjoying specially created pleasure beaches. It was a wonderful thing to do in the 39-degree heatwave which had hit town to coincide with our stay. As the tourist board had told me, Vienna is home to a multitude of outdoor activities – 53 per cent of the city’s surface area is classified as green space. The city’s biggest park, the Prater, has six million square metres of greenery to explore. The Vienna Woods are a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and home to 150 bird species and 2,000 plants. There is also a plethora of gardens to enjoy, including Stadtpark, Vienna’s first public park with the most monuments and sculptures. I’m a sucker for markets, and Vienna has plenty of them, the most popular being the Naschmarkt. Then there’s the Brunnenmarkt, the second largest street market in Vienna, offering delicacies from around the world. Closer to the city centre, the Karmelitermarkt boasts not only the usual stalls, but a contemporary art scene and various new dining concepts which attract locals and visitors alike. The thing a greedy person like me particularly likes about markets is the food - and when it comes to food and drink there is lots to like about Vienna. Outside the crowded centre there are literally hundreds of underrated authentic Viennese restaurants. Gasthaus Ubl in the 4th district offers quintessential Viennese charm with delicious local cuisine such as Wiener schnitzel and roast liver, beef shin and blood sausage. I enjoyed the iconic “boiled beef” dish which is a Viennese favourite and much more delicious than it sounds. The food was surprisingly inexpensive and it was real Austrian cuisine. I know that because I met the lady who owns the place and who almost single handedly cooks everything. When it comes to drink, Vienna is the only metropolis in the world to cultivate a wine-growing industry within its city limits. There’s a selection of vineyards and wine cellars to explore and sample. Wieninger am Nussberg is one such vineyard where visitors can sample biodynamic wine and Buschenschank delicacies from local producers, with stunning views over the city from Nussberg hill. We spent an entire afternoon up there enjoying a wonderful tasting with old Mr Wieninger who told us his family had ben making wine on the hill overlooking the it’s for 600 years. We then worked-off the booze by hiking all the way down the hill and back into the outskirts of Vienna where we jumped aboard one of the city’s excellent, efficient metro-lines that sped us back into the centre. Of course, there are all the famous things you can do and see in what is Europe’s number one short-city-break destination - like all the imperial and contemporary art which you can enjoy in the amazing museum district, or the stunning Schönbrunn Palace, or the State Opera or St Stephen’s Cathedral. There’s even the famous Ferris wheel as seen with Orson Welles in The Third Man, as well as countless Viennese pastries to consume after eating Wiener schnitzel and 100 different types of local sausage. And there is the opera, however be warned that the queues are long if you don’t book a long way ahead. But, in the end there is just Vienna. Grand old empirical Vienna - one of the loveliest, grandest and most exciting cities on Earth. Fact File Martin stayed as a guest of Ruby Hotels. For more information, please visit www.rubyhotels.com. Find out more about staying in Vienna by visiting www.viennainfo.com Frequently Asked Questions About Ruby Hotels Vienna What does the "Lean Luxury" concept mean at Ruby Hotels? The "Lean Luxury" philosophy focuses on providing top-tier luxury where it matters most—such as premium locations, five-star beds, excellent soundproofing, and rainfall showers—while stripping away costly extras like bellhops, minibars, and room service. This allows the hotel to offer a boutique, high-end experience at an affordable price. Are Ruby Hotels located near the centre of Vienna? Yes. Ruby Hotels operates multiple distinct properties across Vienna, each strategically situated in vibrant, highly accessible neighbourhoods close to excellent public transport links. This makes them ideal bases for both sightseeing and exploring the authentic local culinary scene. Do the rooms at Ruby Hotels include unique features? Absolutely. Ruby Hotel rooms are characteristically bright and lean, maximizing space with open layouts. They feature high-quality sound systems, luxury bedding, Marshall amplifiers, and custom lighting controls, blending modern functionality with a distinctly creative, boutique aesthetic.

Winter in a historic European lakeside city can often be a somber, grey affair, but the Swiss city of Lucerne has found a spectacular way to conquer the dark post-festive blues. Every January, the city transforms into a brilliant open-air art gallery for the annual Lilu Light Festival Lucerne. For eleven days, international light artists illuminate the historic squares, bridges, facades, and narrow alleyways of the Old Town, drawing thousands of visitors out into the crisp evening air. I was fortunate enough to experience this winter magic firsthand, watching the lakeside vistas come alive. Standing by the dark lake basin, looking out across the water towards the artfully illuminated skyline, you realize that some cities are simply built for the winter light. Called the Lilu Festival of Lights, it featured an array of both Swiss and international artists showcasing illumination in all its fascinating facets. Every evening during the festival you could walk through the city between 6pm and 10pm and be enthralled by the luminous artworks. And enthralled I was, because I hadn’t really seen this sort of art-form staged en-masse before - but I am certain I will again. I say that because this is obviously a new kind of art - one that would have been impossible to design or stage just a few years ago before small but powerful computer-operated projectors were invented. Shining a New Light on Historic Swiss Architecture Basically, these machines allow an artist to do much more than simply throw a beam of coloured light at a surface of a building or at an item such as a sculpture. To take the example of one of the smallest installations in Lucerne, you can cast lights and illuminated moving shapes onto an ancient statue in a historic square - and so turn the cold stone monument into a kind of living object alive with kinetic texture. Or you can build a large temporary stage in a lake-side park and tell an entire illuminated story complete with sound effects. The most gobsmacking of all the illuminations was to be found in one of Lucerne’s massive old churches where a truly spectacular light-show - beamed across the giant vaulted roof - was accompanied by the most amazing music and sounds. The 25-minute show made you feel as though you knew what time-travel could mean. Capturing the Magic of the Lilu Light Festival I have been fortunate enough to visit Lucerne many times, but never before have I seen the historic city like this. It was thrilling and thought provoking - which is why I can imagine that many larger towns and cities might soon be staging such events in the future. But enjoying the light festival was only one of my winter treats in this special area. Based for a few nights at the majestic and altogether wonderful Hotel Schweizerhof, located right on the lakeside close to the city-centre, I was able to soak up the best Lucerne has to offer, like the riverside market in the January sunshine and a memorable lunch at the Hotel Wilden Mann, which is one of the oldest hostelries in the region. The Hotel Schweizerhof, by the way, is a grand and classy establishment that has the vibe of being reminiscent of a bygone and more elegant age. Think grand ballrooms and grand pianos in the lounge. They serve excellent food too - which they also do at the Wilden Mann where I’ve had lunch several times before. Both do classic Swiss cuisine - which is no bad thing, especially when it comes to exceptional soups and salads. I’ll tell you somewhere else that does good food in the area - or rather, 7000 feet above the city centre. And it brings me to the second part of my short city-break in Lucerne this winter. If you travel just five minutes by bus from the city centre to the southern edge of Lucerne you can alight at a stop which is just a short walk to the cable car that will take you up Mount Pilatus. What you are about to enjoy is one of the best cable car journeys in the Alps - and I say that because the views all the way up are among the most amazing in all of Europe. That is because 7000 foot high Mount Pilatus stands alone, unlike most mountains in the Alps which are, of course, connected to other surrounding peaks. We’re at the northern edge of the main massif of mountains here, so everything north and west is located far lower down on an undulating plain that descends eventually to Zurich and the German border. Directly beneath the mountain, there’s Lucerne and its beautiful lake. Then, once you’ve reached the summit on the exhilarating cable car ride, you can look south and see a massive panorama of alpine peaks stretching east to west. This is made all the more dramatic because every side of Mount Pilatus drops away steeply. Far too steep for any skiing. So there you are, right up there close to the heavens with nothing but fresh mountain air in every direction. A fact which makes it all the more amazing that there’s not one, but two hotels up here. I stayed one night at the cosy Mount Pilaus Kulm and enjoyed every minute of it. Not only did my the window of my warm and snug bedroom (just as well it was snug given it was minus 20 degrees outside) give me truly splendid mountain views, but I was also treated to a massive and delicious seven course meal up there halfway to heaven. And, talking about heaven, I also managed to visit to one of my favourite villages in the world while on the brief January trip. Vitznau is located at what seems to be the far eastern end of the lake opposite Lucerne - and it’s a truly wonderful ferry ride that will take you here. Especially if you have booked a three course lunch aboard one of the ferries that plies the lake 365 days of the year. Indeed, if you were really pressed for time while visiting the city and you wanted to do just one thing, I would suggest catching a ferry to Vitznau. Lunch on board or no lunch - the surprisingly upmarket meal is just a bonus. The real deal is travelling slowly and gracefully through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe. You call at Weggis for one thing - where Mark Twain lived for a short while, claiming it was the most beautiful village in the world. But Weggis doesn’t have the incredible Mount Riga railway and Vitznau does. That alone - and the opportunity to trundle all the way to the top of another stand-alone mountain views - gets the village my vote. The Lucerne area is a winter-wonderland of a place in January when the Lilu Festival of Lights is on, but it’s just as fabulous at any time of year in my opinion. Switzerland - the Alpine region, indeed - at its best… FACT FILE For more information on Switzerland visit www.MySwitzerland.com or call Switzerland Travel Centre on the International freephone 00800 100 200 30 or e-mail, for information info.uk@myswitzerland.com; for packages, trains and air tickets sales@stc.co.uk. Swiss International Air Lines SWISS offers more than 170 weekly flights from London City, Heathrow, Gatwick (seasonal), Manchester and Birmingham, to Zurich or Geneva. One way fares start from £67. For more information visit swiss.com or call 0345 601 0956 Swiss Travel System The Swiss Travel System provides a dedicated range of travel passes and tickets exclusively for visitors from abroad. Frequently Asked Questions About Lucerne's Light Festival When does the Lilu Light Festival in Lucerne take place? The Lilu Light Festival Lucerne takes place annually over eleven days in mid-January. The installations are typically illuminated each evening between 6:00 pm and 10:00 pm, transforming the cold winter nights into a vibrant celebration of light art. Do you need a ticket to visit the Lucerne Light Festival? The vast majority of the light installations scattered across the Old Town and the lakefront are completely free to view and explore on foot. However, specific indoor multi-sensory light shows—such as the popular signature performances hosted inside the historic Baroque Jesuit Church—require a ticket booked in advance. Is Lucerne worth visiting during the winter? Absolutely. Beyond its proximity to world-class alpine ski resorts, Lucerne embraces the winter season with a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. Events like the Lilu Light Festival, combined with traditional lakeside restaurants serving authentic Swiss fondue and raclette, make it an enchanting winter city-break destination.

Television advertisements have come a long way - look back and many were eye-wateringly bad, while some of the epic Christmas adverts today could win movie awards. But there were one or two memorable mini-masterpieces that hit screens in the 1960s and 70s - one of the first stand-out artistic creations being an evocative Dubonnet advertisement showing a young woman walking through gorgeous French countryside, backed by Canteloube’s haunting Shepherd’s Song. I was too young to taste Dubonnet at the time, and never have since - but I can still remember sitting in a bleak UK council estate in winter dreaming of the delights of a balmy Southern France. For most viewers, the advertisement didn't so much sell some obscure alcoholic drink as convey a superior, warmer, more exotic, romantic lifestyle. Years later, I found myself capturing exactly that elusive dream, enjoying a sun-drenched picnic deep in the Provençal hills with a group of traveling companions, working our way through wonderful local French food and wine in the strong heat of an autumn sun. It was one of those grab-this-and-keep-it-forever moments. Maybe it was the cool and surprisingly delicious Provençal rosé, but I lay there thinking that it might well be that life would never, ever, be quite as good as this again. That sense of timeless romance was something I felt time and again during my stay at an amazing, breathtakingly good hotel called Crillon Le Brave. A Luxury Hotel Built Across a Medieval Village It was one of those grab-this-and-keep-it-forever moments. Maybe it was the cool and surprisingly delicious Provencal rose, but I lay there thinking that it might well be that life would never, ever, be quite as good as this again. But then, that was something I felt time and again during the long weekend I spent at an amazing, breathtakingly, good hotel called Crillon Le Brave. Its staff had laid on the picnic, brought us the bikes so we would could cycle through beautiful countryside to the picturesque old quarry (where they used to get the sand to make Perrier and, for all I know, Dubonnet bottles), and generally arranged our every need and happiness for days on end. Of all the hotels in all the world, I end up writing about this one… It’s rare that I concentrate on just one establishment. I will this time, though, because I was so impressed and because all this luscious loveliness is just a two hour flight from the UK.. Let me describe the basics of Crillon Le Brave to give you some idea of why I should write about just one hotel…. Most of us know and love the type of medieval hilltop villages they go in for around the Mediterranean. Southern France is rich in them, as are parts of Spain and Italy. But, although beautiful to look at, they can sometimes feel austere and unwelcoming - which is actually part of their nature because that is what they were designed to be in more troubled times. Now imagine the concept of buying-up almost the entire upper half of such a village, and turning the various historic houses, barns, turrets and other sundry buildings into a single boutique hotel. Throw in a good swimming pool with views out over the valley, add a couple of amazing restaurants, revamp each and every one of the old homes and decorate them with different classy traditional French themes, and what you end up with is something unique and un-copy-able. Like Crillon Le Brave. Provençal Gastronomy and World-Class Cheese Located 25 miles northeast of Avignon, the 36-bedroom hotel looks out over miles and miles of vineyards and olive groves. The stunning views are dominated by vast Mount Ventoux, which all keen cyclists will know only too well (think: Tour de France). What drew me to the place, you may not be surprised to hear, was not the cycling but the promise of delicious food. Whether feasting on a gourmet dinner at the hotel's signature fine-dining establishment, La Madeleine, celebrating local, rustic produce at Bistrot 40k, or having a casual breakfast at La Grange, I was hugely delighted by the extensive traditional French fare on offer at this five-star hotel. Cheese features large, and Crillon Le Brave’s resident Maître fromagère Claudine Vigier, “curates” the extensive selection daily - all sourced from her local cheese shop in Carpentras. Claudine recommended me to try fourme des dentelles affiné au Beaumes de Venise (blue cheese flavoured with muscat de Beaumes de Venise), le dartagnant affiné au marc de Châteauneuf du Pape (cow milk, ripened with Châteauneuf du Pape wine), the secret de Provence ripened with Ventoux truffles, and the Tournesol with raisins and infused with bourbon. In an attempt to work-off all that cheese and explore the surrounding area, the team at Crillon le Brave arranged our cycle ride to Bedoin, a popular neighbouring village spot boasting a local market. We did not, thank God, ride up Mont Ventoux, but enjoyed our picnic instead. Then it was a lazy pedal over to the charming village of Mormoiron, home to beautiful old fountains and a good deal of wine production. Wine Tasting in the Shadow of Mont Ventoux The Ventoux Vineyards make up only a portion of Crillon le Brave’s impressive 35-page wine list, put together by the hotel’s resident wine sommelier, Benoit Liébus who gave us one of the most interesting talks on local viniculture that’s its been my pleasure to enjoy. Among the wines we tasted with Benoit were Vin de pays du Vaucluse viognier, Domaine du tix 2015 blanc, Ventoux, Terrasses d’éole, Mistrau, 2014 rouge, Ventoux, and Domaine de Fondrèche, 2016 rosé. Oddly enough, we were not offered Dubonnet. However, the wonderful Gallic dream which that company’s old TV advert promised all those years ago rang out long and loud for me the other day long after the picnic. As I lay in my immense bed in a classily converted room high in the ancient village I could swear I heard some distant voice singing Canteloube’s Shepherd Song out there in the warm moonlight. FACT FILE To book, email reservations@crillonlebrave.com, or telephone +33 (04) 90 65 61 61; www.crillonlebrave.com There are regular flights from various UK airports ( including Bristol Airport) to Marseille (one hour’s drive from Crillon Le Brave) and Nice (2.5 hours) at certain times of the year on Easy Jet. Frequently Asked Questions About Crillon Le Brave Where is the hotel Crillon Le Brave located? Crillon Le Brave is a luxury five-star boutique hotel located in the Vaucluse department of southeastern France, roughly 25 miles northeast of Avignon. The hotel is situated in a stunning medieval hilltop village overlooking regional vineyards, olive groves, and the famous Mont Ventoux. What makes the layout of Crillon Le Brave unique? Unlike traditional hotels housed within a single building, Crillon Le Brave occupies almost the entire upper half of a historic medieval village. The hotel's 36 bedrooms, suites, and common areas are seamlessly integrated into a cluster of interconnected historic stone houses, barns, and village turrets. Can you go wine tasting near Mont Ventoux? Yes. The region surrounding Mont Ventoux is renowned for its exceptional viniculture. Crillon Le Brave offers access to a spectacular selection of local Ventoux and Rhône Valley vintages, often accompanied by expert guided tastings from the hotel's resident sommelier.

Hidden away on Cornwall's beautiful Lizard Peninsula, Church Cove is one of those rare places that seems almost untouched by time. A medieval church sits just yards from the sand, Atlantic waves crash onto nearby Dollar Cove, and the South West Coast Path threads its way across magnificent cliffs. This is one of Cornwall's most atmospheric walks, combining history, wildlife and breathtaking coastal scenery. Why Church Cove is One of Cornwall's Hidden Treasures Imagine a church made of wine. There are such things dotted around the world on coasts where sailors have been close to drowning. Having survived they build a shrine in thanks to their Lord, and if the ship in which they were travelling happens to have been carrying wine – they ritualistically pour some into the mortar mix. There’s a lonely church with a similar yarn in Cornwall - St Winwaloe’s is at Gunwalloe, on the west coast of the Lizard peninsula and it is probably closer to the sea than any other church in the West Country. When the tide is up and there’s a blow from the west, spray must beat against its ancient door, which is situated just a few feet above and beyond the sandy acres of Church Cove. While staying at the amazing Mullion Cove Harbour apartments, we enjoyed this walk exploring the region south of Halzephron Cliff along the littoral to the south of Mullion Cove, taking in Church Cove and its temple and neighbouring Poldhu Cove. Starting the Walk at Gunwalloe To find the area in question, travel south from Helston alongside the giant Culdrose airbase and turn right, taking signs for Gunwalloe. This is a cul-de-sac of a lane that takes you down to the coast. At the end of this road you’ll come to Church Cove. Once there, you’ll see a large car park behind the farm at Winnianton - and one walking option is to do the short but highly enjoyable figure-of-8 hike that took me just over an hour. IF YOU ENJOY THIS ARTICLE, CHECK OUT OUR OTHER CORNISH HIKES HERE And what an hour it was – one of those bright-light-treatment jobs that make you feel exhilarated to be alive. First though, the boring bit. I walked back up the hill I’d just driven down so that I could reach the top of Halzephron Cliff and turn south once again. This is not so bad as you may think because, after a narrow bit, the roadside sward widens into a pleasant path. Eventually the road reaches the cliff-side and this is where you turn sharp left along the coast path. It’s called Halzephron by the way, because the prefix comes from the Cornish “als” – or Hell (“ephron” comes from the Cornish “yfarn” for cliff). And hell it is – or would be if you happened to be swashing about the base of the cliff in a storm. Many ships have come to grizzly ends below these crags. The coast path takes you out along this small but fearsome headland and around the point at Pedngwinian. Now the path turns south east to descend slowly around the ramparts of a rough, rocky beach called Jangye-ryn. CHECK OTHER SOUTH WEST COAST PATH ARTICLES HERE You are now back to more-or-less where you parked your car, but do not think of going home yet because next comes one of the strangest and most unexpected bits of the Cornish coast. Jangye-ryn is separated from Church Cove by the small but noble headland which protects St Winwaloe from the waves. The Church of the Storms This promontory raises its grassy and flower-strewn head on a 60 foot shoulder of rock that ascends abruptly from the salty lowlands that lurk behind both beaches and play host to the church. Apparently there was a settlement here way back on Domesday times and there was a church of sorts – but the present building dates back to around the 14th or 15th centuries. I walked around the mini-headland so that I could enjoy aerial views of both bays and the church and its graveyard. One of the oddest things about St Winwaloe is that its small tower is completely separate from the main building, being set snug against the steep inner bank of the headland. It’s an incredibly romantic place – if I were to shoot a movie about swashbuckling smugglers of yore, I’d definitely use the church as a location. The sense of romance is somewhat underlined by the wedding confetti which blows about in the wind near the gate – certainly it would seem to be a suitably enigmatic place in which to get hitched. Noticing a public right of way ascending inland from the church up over the gold course, I climbed the National Trust owned Towans (as the course is known) and then joined the lane south down to Poldhu Cove. The trust owns much of the land around here, and a good thing too. I read somewhere that Church Cove used to become one giant car park in summer when vehicles were allowed on the beach and this was having a ruinous effect on the fragile environment. Much the same applied to Poldhu Cove, but now cars have been prevented from parking there too, and marram grass has been planted to stabilise the dunes. Poldhu Cove, Cornwall Having reached Poldhu it’s simply a matter of joining the coast path and heading back north to Church Cove. As you go, you may ponder over which sailor built the sea-borne church in gratitude to his Maker. No one knows if the legend is true, but it’s a fact that the King of Portugal’s treasure ship – the St Anthony – went down near here in 1527 and that an unidentified Spanish ship was wrecked just north of the church in the 1780’s. Legends of gold, silver and grateful sailors have been associated with the location ever since, but then, it’s that sort of place. Walk Information Basic hike: Parking at Winnianton, walk back up road to Halzephron Cliff, join coast path back to Church Cove – then take right of way across golf course inland (beware low flying balls) and join road down to Poldhu Cove before eventually taking coast path back to start. Recommended map: OS Explorer 103 The Lizard, or National Trust Lizard West Coast leaflet. Distance and going: three and a half miles, easy-going. Eat and drink: The Halzephron Inn The Hazelphron Inn FAQ Where is Church Cove in Cornwall? Church Cove lies at Gunwalloe on the Lizard Peninsula, between Poldhu Cove and Porthleven. It is famous for its medieval church standing beside the beach. Why is it called the Church of the Storms? The tiny medieval church, dedicated to St Winwaloe, sits remarkably close to the sea and has survived centuries of Atlantic storms, earning it the nickname "The Church of the Storms". Is Church Cove featured in Poldark? Yes. Church Cove and nearby Dollar Cove were used as filming locations in the BBC series Poldark, adding to the area's popularity with visitors. Is the walk suitable for families? Yes. There are several shorter walking options around Church Cove, while more adventurous walkers can continue along the South West Coast Path towards Poldhu or Mullion. Can you swim at Church Cove? Yes, when sea conditions are safe. Lifeguards are typically present during the school summer holidays, but always check local conditions before entering the water. What wildlife might I see? Look out for seabirds, wildflowers, butterflies and, if you're lucky, seals offshore. The surrounding dunes and reedbeds are also important habitats for wildlife.

If you love discovering places that many visitors simply drive past, this walk is for you. Tregardock Beach is one of North Cornwall's best-kept secrets – a glorious sweep of sand reached only on foot. The walk combines dramatic cliffs, crashing Atlantic waves, secluded coves and exhilarating stretches of the South West Coast Path to create one of the finest coastal walks in Cornwall. Why Tregardock is One of Cornwall's Hidden Gems At first glance the name Narrow Escape might seem a good appellation for a boat, but second thoughts will undoubtedly conjure the idea the vessel’s makers were tempting providence. And that's the way it was just over 180 years ago when the Narrow Escape, of Clovelly, failed to live up to her optimistic name and she was smashed to smithereens by a heavy ground swell just south of Tintagel. IF YOU ENJOY THIS HIKE TAKE A LOOK AT OUR OTHER CORNISH WALKS Starting the Walk But what was she doing there on that lonely, jagged and most inhospitable stretch of the region's coastlines? That's what I wondered as I mused over the inevitable ending of a boat with such a name. There is only one thing for a vessel to do betwixt Tintagel and Port Isaac - steer well clear. But then, I'm a modern man - a fair-weather sailor in more ways than one. Back in 1826 they did things with their boats that mariners wouldn't dream of doing today. Like pulling up on the sand between the rocks at places like Tregardock Beach to take on Delabole slate. Crazy. You'd need to be the sort of optimist that calls your boat Narrow Escape to think you could get away with that - although she wasn't the only vessel to come to grief loading the grey gold of Delabole. Reading about this suicidal trade, I made up my mind to visit this treacherous stretch of coast. Walking the North Cornwall Coast To do so I turned down the coastal lane off the B3314 at Westdowns and discovered another bye-way which would take me toward The Mountain. That is the name of the eminence that commands the North Cornish coast between Tregonnick Point and Jacket's Point, and it is a central feature of this circular hike. The lane terminates at a farm called Tregardock and there is just room to park in winter if you don't mind wedging your car up the bank to ensure a clear way for the folk who live there. Just before the road gives way to private property there's a public footpath on the right by a barn, and down this you go towards the sea. Discovering Tregardock Beach The track curves down a shallow valley to meet the Coast Path. Just beyond the junction - across a shoulder of hill that takes you out of the valley - another path descends towards Tregardock Beach and this I can recommend as a well worthwhile detour if you fancy a paddle or a picnic on the sands. Alternatively you could yourself a few mussels - the rocks are covered in them. I know people who've come a cropper eating wild shellfish, so I am very careful indeed when it comes to preparing these succulent beauties – basically I only collect them from lonesome beaches far from any sewerage outfall. And you don’t get much lonelier than Tregardock. CHECK OUT OUT WALKS ON THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH Wildlife and Coastal Scenery I was there once, just before the November snow, and as an icy wind was blowing from the east that day the place was something of a suntrap. Several other people seemed to have realised the same thing, and it was rather pleasant to be on a wild and otherwise empty beach in winter and see a few other kindred spirits. It was a long climb from the beach back up The Mountain, but well worth the effort for the views. J.R.A. Hocking described the area beautifully when writing his book Walking In Cornwall back in the 1930's: "One wonders why this bare but far from barren country, which is slanted to the sea winds, yet gets some shelter from the enclosing ridge, should be so very deserted... "There is always a sense of quiet and light and open-hearted peacefulness about it,” writes Hocking. “And yet the whole district is so lonely and out of the way that it would form the nucleus of the National Coastal Park which the C.P.R.E. suggested might be proclaimed between Cambeak and the mouth of the Camel." This park never happened, alas, but old Hocking would have been relieved to know that great sections of the area are now in the ownership of the National Trust and so are assured eternal protection from the sort of commercial ravages that have attacked nearby Tintagel. Most of this walk, indeed, is on trust territory. All of the coastal part is anyway, including Tregardock Cliff, which we follow south. Far below, on the lower slopes, a beam engine once provided power for a couple of mines. A savage and unwholesome place to go digging, but they were after silver and antimony, so perhaps it was worth it. I don't know whether they hit lucky or not and would like to hear, if anyone happens to know. After a while we descend into a deep 'V'-shaped ravine known as Dannonchapel. At least, that's what the National Trust calls this property, which it regards as an important location both in terms of flora and fauna. A footpath heads off up the gorge and this we follow along the stream, before beginning the steep diagonal climb up to reach the farm at Tregragon. Once past the buildings we turn left and walk across the fields towards the top of the hill where we meet another path heading sharp left, back down to Tregardock where we began. And so, no narrow escapes for me - not that sunny day, at least. But do watch it down on the beach - the tide comes in fast and you can easily be cut off. Get caught out and there's no escape - and you will suffer the same fate as that old slate boat with the optimistic name. Walk Information Basic hike: from Tregardock (which you'll find on map due west of Delabole) down to Tregardock Beach, back over The Mountain and along Tregardock Cliff to deep ravine below Dannonchapel. Up ravine to Tregragon and over fields back to car. Recommended map: either Ordnance Survey Explorer 109 or 111. Distance and going: four-and-half miles - steep in places. FAQ Is Tregardock Beach worth visiting? Absolutely. Tregardock is one of North Cornwall's least crowded beaches, reached only on foot. Its dramatic cliffs, waterfall and peaceful setting make it feel wonderfully unspoilt. How difficult is the Tregardock walk? The walk is moderate to strenuous because the North Cornwall coast involves several steep climbs, but the scenery more than rewards the effort. Can you swim at Tregardock Beach? Only with care and when conditions are suitable. There are no lifeguards and the beach almost disappears at high tide, so always check tide times before setting out. Is Tregardock Beach suitable for families? Older children who enjoy walking will love the adventure, but the steep approach means it isn't suitable for pushchairs. Are dogs allowed? Yes. Dogs are generally welcome throughout the year, making it a popular destination for walkers with pets. What other places are nearby? The walk lies between Trebarwith Strand, Tintagel, Delabole and Port Isaac, making it easy to combine with a longer day exploring North Cornwall.

There are many wonderful Exmoor walks, but few can match the sheer drama of this circular route from Lynton and Lynmouth. Beginning beside the harbour before climbing to the famous Valley of Rocks, this walk combines towering sea cliffs, Victorian engineering, literary history and some of the finest coastal scenery in England. If you're only planning one walk on Exmoor, make it this one. Why Lynton and Lynmouth Offer One of Exmoor's Best Walks Lynton and Lynmouth enjoy the most spectacular panoramas in England. It's no exaggeration; I have trawled mentally through every burg I know and cannot think of any town or village that compares with the sheer drama of this perpendicular place. Starting the Walk from Lynmouth Anyone who has ridden on the famous Lyn Cliff Railway will know what I mean. Stand on the outer platform of the ascending car and it's the nearest thing to taking off in a helicopter you can experience without leaving the ground. This walk forms part of my complete Exmoor Walking Guide. The higher you go, the more grandiose the whole scene becomes, which is not surprising really given that the tallest cliffs in England are just across the bay. Taking a ride on the railway would be the easy way to start this walk having strolled down the riverside to the sea from the bus stop – but we thought we’d better get in a bit of exercise after sitting on the top of the bus so walked up the zigzag path which begins just to the left of the funicular. I warn you, the Victorians didn't call the place Little Switzerland for nothing. This is a real climb that takes you very steeply up 500 feet. Close to the top, just as you are about to enter Lynton, you will see that the coast path sets off to the west and there’s a sign pointing along it to the Valley of Rocks – and this is where we are headed. Walking Through the Valley of Rocks I do know a number of people who tremble at the mere thought of walks that boast an altitudinous aspect – if you are one of these vertigo sufferers, then this part of the route is not for you. There’s nothing dangerous or arduous about it, but the hillside does plunge rather alarmingly towards the sea way, way, beneath. The local wild goats don’t seem to mind the savage slopes, but can be seen calmly munching down along the precipices with the same equanimity the average sheep shows in the average flat field. But never mind the drop, enjoy the absolutely amazing views that stretch west along the vertiginous coast instead. These are some of the best coastal views in England. After about a mile and a half of this maritime/alpine mix, the path finds a vast opening in the slopes which introduces it to the famous Valley of Rocks. The poet Coleridge loved it here and referred to the “commotion of the elements” and both William and sister Dorothy Wordsworth joined him, naming it “The Valley of Stones”. R.D. Blackmore made it the setting for Mother Melldrum’s cave in Lorna Doone, but it’s Robert Southey’s description I like best - he called the place: “The palace of pre-Adamite kings” and said it contained “the very bones and skeleton of the earth.” Indeed, he went to claim the Lynton and Lynmouth area to be “The finest spot that I ever saw” with the exception of Cintra in Italy. Walk Details Distance: approximately 5 miles Time: 2½–3 hours Difficulty: Moderate Terrain: Coast path, woodland paths, town streets and some steep climbs Parking: Lynton or Lynmouth car parks Dogs: Suitable but keep leads handy near livestock and goats Best season: All year Just inland from the coast path there’s the nation’s most dramatically placed traffic roundabout, situated dead in the centre of the Valley of Rocks – and from there it was a simple matter of turning left and walking up past the nation’s most dramatically situated cricket pitch to the west end of Lynton. On the way we doffed our caps to Mother Melldrum who, for all I know, still lurks up in the rocks of the Devil’s Cheese-ring. It’s the stack of vertical rock that sits a quarter way up the cleave. If you take a detour up to it you find it’s deceptively massive, but manages to be dwarfed by the general scale of the valley. Returning Through Victorian Lynton But we had a bus to catch and made our way up to the east end of the cleave which then leads you directly into Lynton’s main street. At the top of Lee Road live the Poor Clares. How poor they are I do not know, but the nuns have a large and dignified looking convent which is occasionally open to the public. Continuing down the main-street you pass the imposing town hall with its happy mixture of architectural styles. Gothic, neo-Tudor and art nouveau all combine to make the wonderful old place look like something dreamed up in some baroque fantasy by Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle. Actually Sir Arthur officially opened the place just over 100 years ago and in a way his man Sherlock Holmes paid for it. The building was funded by Sir George Newnes, part of whose wealth came from publishing Conan-Doyle's stories. CHECK OUT SOUTH WEST COAST PATH HIKES HERE Continuing again along the main-street we come to Church Hill past the vast Valley of Rocks Hotel. Adjacent to this there’s the church and graveyard where there’s a seat commemorating the life of the mellifluously named Manners Nightingale. North Walk Hill passes between the graveyard and the hotel and leads to the zigzag paths that descend to Lynmouth. You cross the railway twice before regaining the seafront where you can dawdle, if you’ve time, and admire the Rhenish Tower on the old stone quay. You might also take a turn around the display in the Flood Memorial Hall and take a look at the photographs of the infamous Flood Disaster that almost completely destroyed this community 56 years ago. Frequently Asked Questions Is the Lynton and Lynmouth walk suitable for beginners? Yes. Although there are some steep climbs between Lynmouth and Lynton, the paths are well maintained and the route is manageable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness. How long is the Lynton and Lynmouth circular walk? Allow around 2½ to 3 hours to complete the circular walk at a leisurely pace, with plenty of time to enjoy the views. Can I use the Cliff Railway instead of climbing? Yes. The famous water-powered Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway provides an enjoyable alternative to the steep zigzag footpath and is an attraction in its own right. Are there cafés and pubs along the route? Yes. Both Lynton and Lynmouth have an excellent choice of cafés, tea rooms and traditional pubs, making this an ideal walk for combining spectacular scenery with lunch or cream tea. What makes the Valley of Rocks so special? The Valley of Rocks is one of Exmoor's most iconic landscapes, famous for its towering rock formations, wild goats and breathtaking views across the Bristol Channel. It has inspired writers including Coleridge, Wordsworth and R. D. Blackmore. When is the best time to visit? Spring and autumn offer wonderful walking conditions, while clear summer evenings provide spectacular sunsets over the sea. Winter brings dramatic skies and far fewer visitors.

Settling in to a classic English village Moving to a new country is a big step. Settling in Britain involves more than just finding a place to live. It requires a thoughtful approach to daily life and health. Expat wellness is key for newcomers looking to thrive in their new environment. By focusing on cultural integration, individuals can build connections and feel at home while living in the UK. One important aspect of this transition is securing UK health insurance for expats. This step ensures that individuals are prepared for any medical needs that may arise. Understanding the local healthcare system helps newcomers feel more secure and confident in their new surroundings. This guide will explore how balancing local culinary experiences with travel and health planning can create a smooth transition for those relocating from the United States. Embracing British food, exploring local markets, and prioritizing wellness can lead to a fulfilling life in Britain. Exploring British Culinary Traditions and Local Markets Exploring British culinary traditions is a vital part of settling in Britain. It allows newcomers to connect with the local culture through food. One of the best ways to experience this is by visiting local food markets. These markets offer a treasure trove of flavors and ingredients unique to the region. Discovering Regional Farmers Markets Farmers markets play a significant role in showcasing British produce. They provide a platform for local farmers to sell their goods directly to consumers. Here are some benefits of visiting these markets: Access to fresh, seasonal ingredients Support for local farmers and businesses Opportunities to learn about traditional British recipes Some notable farmers markets include the historic Borough Market in London, which has been around since at least 1014. These markets not only offer fresh produce but also foster cultural integration through shared food experiences. Adapting to Seasonal British Ingredients Understanding and adapting to seasonal ingredients is essential for anyone settling in Britain. The British climate influences what can be grown throughout the year. By using seasonal ingredients, home cooks can enjoy dishes that reflect the rhythm of British life. This practice encourages creativity in the kitchen and enhances the connection to local food traditions. Incorporating seasonal ingredients into meals can lead to: Healthier eating habits More flavorful dishes A deeper appreciation for British culinary traditions Engaging with local food markets and embracing seasonal produce can significantly enrich the experience of settling in Britain. Navigating UK health insurance for expats for Peace of Mind Living in the UK can be an exciting adventure, but understanding the British healthcare system is crucial for newcomers. The National Health Service (NHS) provides comprehensive care, yet many expats opt for private UK health insurance for expats. This choice often leads to quicker access to specialists and treatments. Navigating NHS access is essential for anyone living in the UK. It determines how individuals interact with healthcare providers and emergency services. Here are some key points to consider: Registration with a local GP is necessary for NHS access. Emergency services can be accessed through 999 or 112. Private health insurance can cover services not provided by the NHS. Having private UK health insurance for expats offers significant peace of mind. It allows individuals to manage their health proactively. This flexibility can help avoid disruptions to the excitement of starting a new life abroad. Expats can enjoy their time in the UK, knowing they have options for healthcare when needed. Understanding both the NHS and private insurance options can empower expats. They can navigate the medical landscape with confidence, ensuring that health concerns do not overshadow their new experiences. Maintaining Everyday Wellness Through Travel and Nature Settling in Britain offers a unique opportunity to embrace a healthy lifestyle enriched by the country's breathtaking landscapes. The UK's "Right to Roam" legislation provides access to vast areas of countryside. This allows individuals to engage in outdoor activities that are essential for long-term expat wellness. Exploring these natural spaces can boost both physical and mental health. Incorporating seasonal ingredients into daily meals is another way to enhance wellness. Fresh produce not only supports a balanced diet but also connects individuals to local culture. Eating what's in season encourages healthier eating habits and promotes sustainability. This approach complements the active lifestyle encouraged by British travel. Having UK health insurance for expats adds a layer of security that fosters peace of mind. With this coverage, individuals can focus on enjoying their surroundings and maintaining their health. Together, these practices create a fulfilling experience that enhances overall well-being while living in the UK.

Why the Cornish Coast Is So Special Few coastlines stir the soul quite like Cornwall's. From towering granite cliffs and tiny fishing harbours to hidden coves where seals bask beneath Atlantic skies, this remarkable peninsula has shaped my life as a journalist, walker and novelist. Over more than five decades I've wandered hundreds of miles of the Cornish coast, uncovering places that never appear in most guidebooks. This article brings together some of the landscapes, stories and unforgettable moments that make Cornwall one of Britain's greatest coastal destinations. To see more of our Cornish Walks click here Here’s a walk article which includes Bedruthan that I wrote many years ago… There was a jangling of keys and in an instance I spotted the beast I’d driven miles to see. Corn buntings are not immediately obvious in the great ornithological pantheon of birds. They look like fat sparrows. Moreover, they are – in West Country terms – an endangered species. The modest bunting has only one toehold left on Cornwall and that is on the particularly lovely strip of coastline that stretches from Padstow down towards Newquay. I was only too pleased to go and meet the farmers who are being paid by the RSPB to farm in a way that helps the corn buntings, as one of them happens to own and run my one of favourite campsites. And while I was there, Ordnance Survey's Explorer Map 106 persuaded me there was a decent chance of a circular stroll in the area that would enable me to breathe fresh air and spot small brown birds all at the same time. The big golden sand beach at Porthcothan stretches inland with all the wide self-importance of a great river in its final lap of estuarine glory. Except there is no river, just the trickles and runlets of an extremely modest stream. Up at the top of the beach this stream makes a bit of a fuss with a puddle or two, but across the road its true riverine identity is revealed. The great sandy gut that promised a river of force was made by a minnow so small that the Ordnance Survey doesn't even bother to give it a name on the map. What they do show though is a footpath which follows the stream's northern bank. To find it you must climb a short way up the hill that leads towards Padstow and there you'll see a track on your right. Once past Porthcothan Mill the path resumes its stream-side course all the way up to the hamlet of Penrose. I have never been to Ireland, but I'm blowed if Penrose doesn't have an Irish feel to it. I somehow expected a local sage to issue from one of the squat cottages and lilt lyrical as a jig. But not a soul stirred in the lonely corner that somehow ended up in Cornwall instead of Connemara and so I took the road due south back down into the river valley and up the other side towards Trethewell. Just after bridging the stream, the lane does a left and then a right and at the latter corner a footpath heads across the field towards the coast. This cuts a dog-leg and rejoins the road at Trevorgey. Directly opposite another lane climbs gently to Engollan where yet another branches right to Tregona. Here you have a choice of following it past Bedruthan to the busy coastal road or turning right down the valley along a footpath which eventually terminates on the B3276 further north at a place called Efflins. The former route will take you close the Bedruthan Steps which is quite simply one of the most fabulous beaches to be found anywhere in Europe. The National Trust owns much of the cliff-top property here and the organisation has a car park and visitor information centre. But I was there recently and the August crowds were very much at large, so I took the latter option of the shorter, latter route past Efflins to Pentire Farm. This corner of coast is also owned by the National Trust and here the organisation has a hostel where volunteer workers can stay. "I have just three wardens covering 40 per cent of a 100 mile long stretch of coastline," I was informed by the local Countryside Manager of the trust's extensive North Cornish holdings. "So we very much rely on volunteers - some of whom come on organised full-time work parties, while others are just interested in doing a day or two here or there. The Beach Head Hostel is where they can stay." I had telephoned to ask him the name of the curious plant which seems to dominate so many of the cliff-top hedgerows around this particular part of the world. Having walked around dramatic Park Head and descended down to a bay called Porth Mear I had wondered, as I have often done before, about this strange feathery shrub that sits upon all the dry stone walls near Trevendar Farm. "Tamarisk," he said immediately. "It comes from South Africa originally and you often find it around parts of the Mediterranean coast. The point is that it is tremendously salt resistant so it makes an excellent windbreak near the sea. "By-the-way, when you were down there in the valley behind Porth Mear did you notice that we've been doing quite a lot of work up in the reed beds by the stream? That valley really is a marvellous habitat for wildlife but it does need looking after..." I had noticed. This peaceful, silent coombe is one of my favourite places in Cornwall and often have I seen a peregrine quartering its secret crooks and crannies. There is something almost Spanish about the valley's northern flanks - the dry stone walls and the ancient tracks audibly escorted by the soughing of the gently bending tamarisk. This is where I spotted my corn bunting, which is easy to identify when you know that it’s call sounds exactly like the jangling of keys. Back at the campsite Chateau Hesp was flapping splendidly in the wind and pinned to it there was a note from my wife and kids that said: “Gone to the beach...” Which, apart from walking, is what you go to Cornwall for. Fact File Basic Hike: from Porthcothan Cove inland to Penrose and back via Bedruthan Steps and the coast. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 106. Distance & Going: 7 miles easy going. I've been walking, photographing and writing about Cornwall for more than half a century. During that time I've covered thousands of miles of coastline, interviewed fishermen, lighthouse keepers, artists, lifeboat crews and chefs, and discovered countless places that continue to surprise me. This article is a celebration of the coastline that has inspired so much of my journalism and fiction. FAQ Where is the most beautiful part of the Cornish coast? Beauty is subjective, but favourites include the Land's End peninsula, the Lizard, the Helford River, St Agnes Heritage Coast, Boscastle and the north coast around Tintagel. Cornwall offers everything from rugged Atlantic cliffs to sheltered fishing harbours. When is the best time to visit the Cornish coast? Late spring and early autumn are often ideal, with fewer crowds, mild weather and excellent walking conditions. What is the best coastal walk in Cornwall? The South West Coast Path offers hundreds of miles of outstanding walking. Popular sections include St Ives to Zennor, Boscastle to Tintagel, Porthcurno to Land's End and Fowey to Polruan. Is the Cornish coast good for wildlife? Yes. Visitors regularly see grey seals, dolphins, basking sharks, peregrine falcons, choughs and a wealth of seabirds depending on the season. Which fishing villages should I visit? Some of the most atmospheric include Mousehole, Port Isaac, Cadgwith, Polperro, Boscastle, Coverack and Newlyn, each with its own distinctive character and maritime history.