The Best Seats in Funchal: Why a Chef’s Table View Changes Everything on a Madeiran Food Trip
- Martin Hesp
- 4 days ago
- 4 min read
The Rhythm of an Island Day
To a bloke who has spent half-a-century chasing stories and good suppers and lunches across the globe, there is nothing quite like finding yourself on a remote but highly fertile island. Out here in the Atlantic, where the salt air keeps the mind sharp and the appetite sharper, a day of culinary exploration in the lovely old capital, Funchal, is a masterclass in how Madeira manages to celebrate its deep-rooted heritage while keeping its eyes fixed firmly on the horizon.
Midday Magic at Three House Restaurant
Take, for instance, a midday stroll to Three House. Situated upstairs in a large building dominating a corner of the city that feels both historic and entirely fresh, this isn't just a place to grab a bite, it provides a masterclass in effortless, cool-headed gastronomy. The place is fun - the vibe is laid-back - but don't let the relaxed atmosphere fool you. There is a precise, intelligent craft at work in the kitchen.
The Best Seat in the House: Up Close with the Kitchen Team
The real magic happens if you manage to bag a seat right at the bar. Perched at this informal chef’s table, the barrier between diner and kitchen completely evaporates. It is pure theatre. You can watch the culinary team execute each plate with cool precision, and if you catch their eye, they’re more than happy to lean over the counter for a chat, sharing the exact inspiration behind the midday menu.
Lunch here feels like a celebration of the season, where local ingredients are treated with a light, contemporary touch that doesn't feel overworked or pretentious. We enjoyed a selection of absolutely superb small plates... Two absolute standouts demand your attention here, especially from this front-row vantage point:
The Breaded Scabbard Fish: A brilliant, crunch-perfect take on the island's classic peixe espada, elevated here with an almond and coconut tempura batter that delivers a spectacular texture without losing the delicate, flaky sweetness of the fish.
The Slow-Cooked Short Rib Beef: Total comfort on a plate. It’s rich, melt-in-the-mouth tender, and often features as the star of a deeply savoury, complex ramen that showcases the kitchen's flair for clever fusion cooking.
It’s the kind of cooking that makes you want to linger over a glass of dry Verdelho, watching the Funchal sun work its magic while the afternoon stretches out before you.
If you prefer you can sit out on the restaurant's airy terrace which commands wonderful views of the port area of the city.
Perched directly above the restaurant sits the Three House Hotel, a sleek, thoughtfully styled retreat that manages to feel entirely cut off from the hum of the city streets below. The real crown jewel here, though, is the rooftop open-air lounge. Up on the deck, you’re treated to a spectacular panoramic sweep of Funchal's terracotta roofs tumbling down towards the deep blue of the Atlantic. It’s an idyllic spot to lose an hour or two, centred around a beautifully crisp swimming pool that mirrors the island sky, and a cocktail bar where the mixology is taken just as seriously as the cooking downstairs. There’s no better place in town to order a properly fashioned sundowner, find a comfortable corner, and watch the Atlantic light fade to dusk.
An Evening of Deep-Sea Flavours at Akua by Júlio Pereira
But if lunch is a masterclass in relaxed, modern sophistication, dinner at Akua is a deep dive into the very soul of the Atlantic. Sitting down with a representative from the Madeira Promotion Bureau, it becomes instantly clear that this is a restaurant that doesn't just serve seafood—it understands it. Akua is the brainchild of Chef Júlio Pereira, a man who knows exactly how to make the ocean sing on a plate.
A Front-Row View of Atlantic Gastronomy
Once again, the ultimate way to experience this place is from a vantage point right at the counter. Sitting at Akua's special bar spaces turns dinner into an interactive conversation. As the chefs grill, slice, and assemble the fresh catch right in front of your eyes, they talk you through the dishes, explaining where the fish was landed that morning and the traditional island secrets behind the flavours.
The menu here relies on a brilliant array of classics designed for sharing, alongside standout mains that showcase incredible culinary wit. A few of the house specialties you simply cannot miss include:
The Fried Codfish Tacos: Crispy, light, and perfectly balanced, these have become a legendary starter for anyone pulling up a stool at the bar.
The Sardine, Eggplant and Passion Fruit: A daring combination that pairs the rich oiliness of local sardines with the sharp, clean tropical punch of Madeira's favourite fruit.
Braised Tuna with Razor Clam Rice: A spectacular main course where perfectly seared tuna steak meets a rich, deeply savoury bed of razor clam rice that tastes of the pure ocean.
The Fish Sausage Board: A masterful display of maritime charcuterie that subverts everything you think you know about sausage making.
The focus here is entirely on the pristine freshness of the catch, treated with the kind of reverence only a true island kitchen can muster. Paired with a sharp, mineral-rich local white wine—including their own bespoke house white bottled exclusively for the restaurant—and the insight of a host who knows the island inside out, it is an evening that reminds you why we travel in the first place.
Funchal's dining scene isn't just evolving, it’s thriving - anchored beautifully between the sleek style of the new world and the true, unpolluted bounty of the Atlantic. You can book a spot or browse the full, current menu directly on the official Akua Website.
